Sitting in a street-side booth to watch the world go by, we can see why. Even the bread and dips we start with are noteworthy, as a mouthwatering truffle creme fraiche dip has us licking the spoon clean. Eating our mains -- a perfectly cooked kingfish steak with tempura mussels and salsa verde for one, and a Peking duck layered with wonton crisps and deliciously fresh salad for the other -- it's hard to believe we are in the middle of a city that has often copped flak for a lack of culture and sophistication. With its elegant design, perfect service and beautifully presented food, this bistro is easily up with the best in Auckland or Wellington.
Meanwhile, for pre-concert drinks or a post-cricket game debrief, it would be hard to go past one of the city's Good George brewing establishments. We visit the founding bar, eatery and brewery in the former St George's Church. A tour of the brewery operation demonstrates the effort that has been made to keep the character of the old church while producing millions of litres of quality beer and cider in it every year. If you're into hobbits and the like, get a photo of yourself with the brewing tanks -- this is where they make gallons of ginger beer and amber ale for The Green Dragon tavern at Hobbiton.
The main attraction is of course the lip-smacking array of beers on offer. Many have won numerous gongs at the Brewers Guild awards -- in particular, the IPA and ciders. If you get the chance to try the Drop Hop Cider, do: it won a gold and best in class in 2013. But after tasting the full range, it's the silver-badged Doris Plum Cider that's enchanted me, and the signature Kiwifruit Sour is going down a treat on the other side of the table.
For dinner, the brewery theme continues -- at least in terms of the venue -- as we stroll down to Chim Choo Ree, which occupies the former Waikato Brewery Building. With light, fresh walls and the pages of botanical books tacked whimsically on the walls, it's a modern and delicate space full to the brim with diners.
It's not hard to see why the restaurant is so busy once we get down to the business of eating. Having claimed Cuisine's Best Regional Restaurant award last year, and two Restaurant of the Year Finalist nods under its belt, Chim Choo Ree delivers delicious dish after delicious dish without a single note of pretension.
Everything is impeccably presented, and tastes even better. The tuna tartare with miso mayo, ruby grapefruit, and wasabi tobiko entree kicks off the night by exceeding all expectations. It's easy to see why customers would "stamp their feet in protest" if it was removed from the menu, according to our waitress.
It's also the case when it comes to dessert -- a rice pudding mousse with sour raspberry ambrosia, lime mascarpone and sherbert is tongue-ticklingly tasty; the coconut yoghurt sorbet with strawberry and cucumber and coconut sugar is refreshment in a bowl on the sticky summer's night. It's not the kind of food or place that many would associate with Hamilton -- which is, in a way, what has made this whole experience that much more satisfying.
Award-Worthy Gourmet Treats
On a Sunday morning visit the Hamilton Farmers' Market. Wander stalls brimming with fresh veges, have a coffee under the trees, and stop by the Sweetree Honey stall whose honey has won several key awards from the National Beekeepers Association. And if you're looking to make a day of gourmet food, squeeze in a visit to one of the Meyer Gouda Cheese shops in Hillcrest or Rototuna. Their cheeses boast a string of awards too.
• Victoria Street Bistro
• Good George
• Chim Choo Ree
For events in the region, check out hamiltonwaikato.com/events
Michelle Coursey was a guest of the Novotel Hamilton Tainui hotel.
