Sundancer is a comfortable vessel, a 38ft former trawler; she's been kitted out and fitted up for fishing charters and sightseeing trips and Chris, with his calm easy manner, is a super skipper indeed.
A former marine surveyor, Chris was running a flourishing business in Perth when he and his wife decided it was time for a sea change. As his life has always revolved around the sea - having raced yachts around the UK and sailed across the Atlantic, along with a spell skippering the Spirit of Adventure - a charter boat business was the natural choice and these days he reckons he has the best office in the world. It's hard to disagree.
Accompanying us on the voyage was Judy, Chris' newest crew member, and what she doesn't know about fishing isn't worth knowing. Third mate Sue from up the road was there to keep us entertained with her charming tales of island life and Flemmy the Woofer from West Germany was along to hurl the burley - he wasn't feeling that flash.
Following the safety briefing, we motored towards a collection of rocky outcrops called The Cousins (between Tryphena and Okupu). We anchored there, but Skipper didn't like the look of the ocean floor so we quickly moved on and started stray lining which, if you didn't know, is fishing without sinkers, allowing the weight of the bait to take the hook down to the hungry fish below.
According to Chris there are two ways to catch old island fish - chase them or attract them - Chris prefers the latter method because it's so much more relaxing. We're in the same boat on that matter, dangling a line while feeling for nibbles is a most agreeable way to kill time, even if you're not killing fish.
From the water, the island looks so deliciously unspoilt, dense bush marching down to the ocean, punctuated by the occasional isolated dwelling - Great Barrier is like no other part of New Zealand.
The dramatic coastline looks especially charming from the water. Which is partly why Chris offers a variety of popular sightseeing trips too, taking tour groups from Whangaparapara to Fitzroy and serving lunch for groups of up to 20. Family groups and romantic cruises are also a speciality, with itineraries made to measure. Snorkelling and kayaking are also on offer, if that's what floats your boat.
Elisabeth Easther with someone else's snapper. Photo / Elisabeth Easther
It's tempting at this point to say something along the lines of "out came the rods, down went the bait and up came the fish".
And I wish I could share tales of fishy slaughter but, if it's the truth you're after, I can't even brag about the one that got away. Although, midway through the fishing trip, I did have my picture taken with someone else's fish, just in case I caught none of my own and was tempted to make something up. Just in case. But I can't tell a lie, so the picture you see here is merely for show, but it looks impressive though, eh? The photographer has a way with scale and scales.
And I was I perfectly happy to merely get a few nibbles because being on a boat with the rugged Barrier as our backdrop more than made up for my lack of a catch. The comfortable boat, the stellar weather, our companionable crew and the delicious lunch all added up to create a completely enjoyable day.
Judy wryly observed my non-existent haul.
"Looks like sausages for dinner," she said.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: The Sealink Ferry takes passengers from Auckland to Great Barrier Island and cars to and from Auckland seven days a week and, more often than not, dolphins will accompany the boat.
Accommodation: Great Barrier Lodge has great views, food and service, and the amenities are all top notch.
Further information: Hooked on Barrier offers sightseeing trips, as well as fishing, diving and snorkelling. At their shop in Claris they also do dive fills and have some of the best coffee and baked goods to be found on the island.
The writer travelled as a guest of Sealink, Great Barrier Lodge and Hooked on Barrier.
