The former Karangahake railway tunnel. Photo / Adam Crouchley
The former Karangahake railway tunnel. Photo / Adam Crouchley
Waihi's mining past is pervasive, providing the backdrop for a great weekend, writes Sarah Ell.
'Remember Waihi!" was the cry of the militant socialists after the bitter strike of 1912. But now you should remember the small town as a weekend getaway destination.
Sometimes, you just have to get awayfrom the rain in Auckland. On this particular weekend, we decide to head southeast to Waihi. With its long history of mining running back to 1878, there are plenty of heritage sites to visit, including the town museum and the Gold Discovery Centre. But more recent visitors have been attracted, like us, to the Hauraki Rail Trail, and especially the section through the scenic Karangahake Gorge.
The trail runs from right in town in Waihi, but we don't think the littler legs in our party will cope with riding the whole way, so we park the car at Waikino and start by looking around the historic Victoria Battery site. The stamper battery - which used to pound gold out of rock - was opened in 1896 and was the largest quartz crushing plant for gold extraction in Australasia, banging away day and night for more than 30 years. Today the crushers have gone but there is a wealth of fascinating ruins to explore, an interesting museum and a 1.2km tramway which runs around the site.
You could spend quite a few hours poking around here, but it's time to hit the trail. The riding is smooth and easy - it's grade one, so is virtually flat with a good gravel surface - and a lovely view of the river.
Just when we are giving up hope of reaching the trail's famous tunnel before whining sets in, suddenly, there it is. We shoot over a bridge above the roadway and into the darkness of a 900m long former railway tunnel.
And what a tunnel it is! Riding east to west, it slopes slightly downhill, so we don't even need to pedal that much, as we rocket along in virtual darkness, the way lit by occasional golden lights, water dripping down the brick walls, hooting like steam trains or bike-riding ghosts. We shoot out into daylight, exhilarated, then and do it all again.
All this biking has worked up an appetite, so we stow the bikes and head for The Falls Retreat, up a side road mid-gorge. This has to be one of the best "secrets" around, with the Bistro serving amazing pizza, among other delights, and we enjoy sitting in the sunshine while the kids explore the adventure playground nearby.
The afternoon is drawing in, so we decide it's time for a hot soak. Several people have recommended another "secret" spot, the hot springs at the Athenree Holiday Park, to the southeast of Waihi. On the very northern reaches of Tauranga Harbour, Athenree is lovely, especially at dusk and on a high tide. There's a larger pool for splashing about and an "adults only" zone for dedicated soaking.
The next day begins with a town-wide power cut, so we head to Waihi Beach, the bach settlement just 10 minutes away. It's started to drizzle now, but we find a warm welcome and a top-notch breakfast, along with a stunning view of the white-sand beach and out to Mayor Island, at the beachfront Flatwhite Cafe.
A Hauraki Rail Trail bridge. Photo / Andy Belcher
Fuelled up, we head back to town for a ride on the Goldfields Railway, which runs from Waihi to Waikino. The railway follows the route established in 1905 between the two mining settlements, and is a rattling, rocking ride back through time.
The power is back on at Waikino and there's time for morning tea at the restored Waikino Station Cafe before returning to town for a compulsory look at "the hole". Sitting above the township, and invisible until you stand on its lip, is the gigantic opencast Martha Mine. It's seriously impressive, even though the pit is not currently being mined.
We head back to Auckland as the rain sets in - it seems there's no escaping the weather - excited about our weekend in Waihi and keen to return to explore more of its heritage and outdoor activities.
Exploring Hauraki
Hauraki Rail Trail: www.nzcycletrail.com/trails/hauraki-rail-trail Victoria Battery site and tramway: vbts.org.nz Bistro at the Falls Retreat: fallsretreat.co.nz Athenree Holiday Park and hot pools: athenreehotsprings.co.nz Flatwhite Cafe, Waihi Beach: flatwhitecafe.co.nz Goldfields historic railway, Waihi: waihirail.co.nz
