Golden days in Malaysia

By BOB MARRIOTT

Humidity wraps around me like a warm, damp towel as I step from air-conditioned comfort into the Kuala Lumpur evening.

KL, as the capital is known, is a typically vibrant Asian city with narrow streets of busy markets and modern shops opening on to wide tree-lined avenues overlooked by a high-rise skyline

There's a combination of Malay, Muslim, European, Indian and Chinese influences that makes for a city of modern complexity with an underlying colonial charm.

The central city area is known as the Golden Triangle, its landmark being the brightly lit twin towers of the Petronas complex.

Dance music throbs gently from nightclubs and echoes down the streets where throngs of well-dressed people mingle.

Thousands of lights and decorative effects along the bustling thoroughfares compete with lines of headlights, while motorcycle and scooters riders weave skilfully through the traffic.

Multi-coloured umbrellas blossom over bustling pavement cafes allow people to take time out from the hustle and bustle.

A few minutes' ride in a taxi takes me to Merdeka Square, where the Malaysian flag was first raised in 1957. Families stroll among gardens fronting the mock-Tudor Royal Selangor Club.

Only minutes earlier, the sinking sun had turned the copper onion-domes of the Sultan Abdul Samad building to burnished fire.

Nearby Chinatown has bustling streets and peaceful temples - it's yin and yang in the blink of an eye.

After dark, Petaling St market comes to life, where shops and stalls with bargain shopping and haggling pull the crowds.

Motorised traffic is barred and people are shoulder to shoulder, talking, laughing, smoking and eating. Aromas fill the air as smoke rises from frying rice, noodles, prawns or fish. Stalls are buried under piles of grapes, paw-paw, durian, and spiky rambutans.

Brand names draw visitors to bags, belts, clothing and hats, along with rows of bracelets and watches, glistening against the dark backdrop. All are fakes, but they are cheap and look good.

Chatting with a friendly stallholder, I buy two fake Rolex watches and a couple of T-shirts before elbowing through the cosmopolitan scrum to sit and assess my "bargains" over a cold beer.

At a nearby cafe I select a mouth-watering curry kapitan from a range of Nonya dishes on offer.

Daytime attractions include the Lake Gardens that date back to the 1880s. Built around an artificial lake, they cover more than 91ha, a place of peace close to the city centre. Walking the gardens is an option or you can ride in an open-sided bus.

Features include a bird enclosure, butterfly park, orchid garden and deer park. The National Monument commemorates members of the Malaysian forces who died in the fight against communist insurgency. The National Planetarium stands on a hill in the complex.

Set in a rainforest environment, the bird enclosure is the largest in Southeast Asia, with more than 5000 birds from 100 species - all free to fly under an immense, unobtrusive canopy. The strange-looking hornbills are a star attraction. There are few other places where they can be seen at such close quarters.

Flamingos and other birds add to the spectacle of colour in a lake fed by a stream.

The walk-in butterfly park, said to be the largest in the world, is home to around 120 species of every size and hue, creating brilliant splashes of colour among the thousands of native plants.

A more foreboding display is the scorpion pit, where dozens of these scaly creatures parade in silent menace.

Another popular tourist attraction is the Batu Caves, about 11km north of the city. The three main caves are home to monkeys that scamper around the rocky walls vying for titbits from tourists and onlookers.

Hiking up 272 steps is a daunting prospect in the 35C heat, but worth the effort to see the vast, cathedral-like caves.

They house the shrine of Lord Subramaniam, which attracts followers from all over the world.

In January or February the annual pilgrimage of Thaipusam can bring thousands of Hindus, some to carry the kavadi, a colourful framework that may stand over 2m high and is adorned with peacock feathers. Carriers have their skin pierced with dozens of metal hooks as a form of penance.

The busy streets don't appeal to everyone. And so I head to Malaysia's east coast - one hour by plane - to a region of outstanding natural beauty and a world apart from the capital.

Superb white sand beaches stretch almost the length of the peninsula, backed by some of the world's oldest rainforest. Offshore lie tropical islands surrounded by crystal clear waters with mature coral gardens.

Quiet villages, where the main occupation is fishing, are dotted along the coast in this mainly unspoiled rural area. Kuala Terengganu, the state capital, is little more than a town, the pace of life leisurely and unhurried with the Muslim faith much in evidence.

Now, instead of the predictable rhythm of dance music in the air, the haunting cry of the muezzin calls the faithful to prayer and echoes through dusty streets. I stroll to the waterfront and the central market, to a place that comes alive only when the boats arrive.

The wet market sells fresh produce, fruit, fish and vegetables and the crispy local delicacy keropok lekor. The adjoining modern shopping arcade is home to traders selling traditional handcrafts such as batik, silk, songket (a type of brocade) and brassware.

Visitors often cross to Pulau Duyung, an island in the estuary noted for boatbuilding. And the Terengganu State Museum is probably the finest in the country.

Returning to the city, home of a million people and a world away from the east coast sanctuary, I find myself back at the place where I last enjoyed a long cool beer. There are no bargains to marvel at during this visit. Instead, to pass the time, I enjoy every sip of the golden liquid as my mind drifts to the white sand beaches and a life less ordinary.

Getting there: Malaysia Airlines fly from Auckland to Kuala Lumpur daily, Wednesdays and Fridays direct, other days via Brisbane. Return fare is around $1500. Contact your travel agent for details.

Getting around: KL is regarded as a safe city and driving is on the left - but don't hire a car unless you want to escape from the city. Transport options include taxis (cheap to hire but watch out for cabbies who don't put their meters on) and the light rail transit system is fast and efficient.

When to go: It's always hot and humid with maximum daily temperatures around 20C. It can rain at any time, but expect shorts bursts of heavy showers in the afternoons. June and July are the driest months.

Where to stay: If you would like to follow in the footsteps of the Britain's royalty, stay at the Carcosa Seri Negara hotel in Kuala Lumpur. The Shangri La in the city centre is superb and The Palace of the Golden Horses outstanding.

What to see and do: If you want to go to a disco, start out early as they close at 1am. There are plenty of historic buildings to see, as well as fascinating new ones such as the Petronas Twin Towers. There's also bushwalking and birdwatching.

Money: $1 buys around 1.96 Malaysian ringgits.

Tourism Malaysia

* Bob Marriott was hosted by the Malaysia Tourist Office and Malaysia Airlines.