It's 7:25am on a crisp, sunny Christchurch morning. I'm wending my way through the industrial heartland of Addington, dragging a worn-out suitcase behind me, surrounded by drab retail buildings, gagging for a coffee. I just need to get there.
There, on this particular Saturday, is the Christchurch Railway Station. It's the kick-off point for the TranzAlpine – a 223-kilometre rail journey that'll take me through the body of Te Waipounamu from Christchurch to Greymouth over four-and-a-half hours. I'm keen to compare the character of the east and west coasts and to complete the steep climb to Arthur's Pass, a high point of the Southern Alps, seated in the cosy cabin of a luxury train.
Good news is: yes, there will be coffee. The freshly brewed, barista-made kind. In less than an hour, there will also be muesli, baked seasonal fruit and yoghurt. Did I mention today's breakfast menu includes a small chocolate pastry?
For $239.00, I've booked a one-way seat on the new Scenic Plus service. The service, introduced on October 20, is KiwiRail's alternative to flying premium-economy – and a clever go at turning the luxury dial up a notch on what's touted to be "one of the world's great train journeys".
On the Christchurch to Greymouth service, travellers can expect breakfast, a spread of cakes and coffee for morning tea, a light lunch paired with beer or wine and, 20 minutes before the cruise into Greymouth, a cheese platter to finish. All that and you get top-rate service and the chance to ditch the movie marathon in favour of ever-changing rural and alpine views.
With that in mind, here are four reasons to book your seat on the TranzAlpine Scenic Plus service this summer.
EYE-POPPING SCENERY
From the minute you pull out of the Christchurch Railway station, the views out your carriage window will not disappoint. Clickety-clacking through the industrial suburbs of Ōtautahi, we were waved off by a dad and two kids and, moments later, a bearded, lycra-clad cyclist, before forging our way through the sunlit landscape of the Canterbury Plains. Views of farmland made lush by the alien arms of irrigation machinery, and occasional glimpses of the Southern Alps topped in snow, quickly melded into aqua-blue views of the South Island's braided rivers. About the time we left the main trunk line at Rolleston, I wandered forward to the viewing carriage to squeeze in beside passengers prepping to photograph the Waimakariri River, the largest in North Canterbury. This half-day journey is a visual treat that takes you from rural Canterbury, to the kitsch mountain village of Arthur's Pass (definitely check out the original A-frame railway station built in 1966) to the otherworldly lakes and rainforests of the West Coast.
TOP-RATE SERVICE
Snapping up 16 former airline staff from the unemployment line to run the Scenic Plus service (on both the TranzAlpine and Coastal Pacific routes) was a genius move by KiwiRail. Our host, Gary Ross, a steward with Virgin Australia International for more than two decades, was a dimple-cheeked gem. Having a dad who dived for a job, Gary grew up in remote spots such as the Chatham Islands and Rakiura but has lived all over the world. Near Springfield, he explained he'd never been happier to be home. "Do I love New Zealand? Absolutely, yes. It's so beautiful. I'm so proud to show Kiwis who've never been to the South Island this incredible part of the world." It had snowed last week, Gary said pointing out the window. "See these hills and valleys? They were blanketed in white powder. But then on a sunny day like this, the whole landscape lights up. You should come back on the afternoon service. The views outside change again – and we start the trip with canapes!" From Gary, we learned about one another. Fellow passenger, Patrick, from Christchurch, had been gifted a Scenic Plus ticket by his son and was on his way to the West Coast for the first time in 30 years. Another one of our group was a doctor from the US, fitting in the rail journey between quarantine and the start of a rural residency. Gary was also quick to point out sights of interest. There was Mount Binser, on the edge of Arthur's Pass National Park, and the Ōtira Tunnel, an 8.5km engineering feat completed in 1923. There was even a chance spotting of a dozen or more kererū billowing into the air, marking our transition to the verdant West Coast.
SEASONAL MENU
While the TranzAlpine has a well-stocked cafe on board, the Scenic Plus service offers travellers a full-service dining experience. We started with a standard breakfast bowl, orange juice and filter coffee, before enjoying a decadent assortment of small, sweet cakes (a lemon meringue tart, almond frangipane, chocolate brownie and a caramel slice), served with barista-made coffee. Lunch was either roasted lamb loin served with an agria potato and chive salad or a roasted chicken thigh and vegetable salad bowl. My choice of lamb and a glass of Tohu sauvignon blanc arrived just before midday as we cruised through the Taramakau Valley, a major site of Ngāi Tahu pounamu. Topping up my wine, Gary explained, the day's menu had been designed to showcase local ingredients made by local producers. "Canterbury bakers, OBC, made your platter of cakes. The lamb is grass-fed South Island lamb. All our wines are wonderful New Zealand wines." The verdict? Delish. The lamb was especially tasty and there was nothing left of the Oamaru Shenley Station blue and Waitaki camembert that made up my cheese board by the time we rolled into Greymouth.
ROMANCE OF RAIL
There are plenty of ways to see the country this summer. But few can beat the romance of travelling by rail. The rhythmic hum and pace of the TranzAlpine, as well as the train's enormous viewing windows make it hard not to just sit back, relax and take in hours of Te Waipounamu's natural beauty. But on this journey, there's plenty to keep trainspotters happy, too. Think 15 tunnels, four viaducts (including the 72-metre high Staircase Viaduct) and untold remnants of New Zealand's railway heritage that dot the route. If you're quick you'll see Cass station flash by before the train eases into Arthur's Pass. (The red wooden station was made famous by New Zealand painter Rita Angus in her 1936 landscape image of the same name). In Ōtira, you'll notice plenty of historic railway cottages. In Moana, if you turn your back on Lake Brunner, you'll see the wooden station built in 1926 – and maybe reflect on that time in our history when taking the train to the lake for a picnic was as common as hanging out online is today.
CHECKLIST: TRANZALPINE
DETAILS
The TranzAlpine travels on Fridays to Mondays, departing Christchurch at 8.15am and returning from Greymouth at 2.05pm. Scenic Plus fares start from $239. greatjourneysofnz.co.nz/tranzalpine/scenic-plus-class/experience/scenic-plus-dining
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