This hidden gem has enough charm, adventure and culture for an unforgettable stay. Photo / 123RF
Andorra might not be on most travellers' radars, but it is a true hidden gem in a world where that term is vastly overused, writes Sydney Baker
France and Spain were named the top two destinations for travellers according to an end-of-2024 report. That’s understandable as the allure of hiking or skiing the French Alps or soaking up Barcelona’s lively atmosphere is certainly enticing. However, I’m here to let you in on a little secret: Andorra, the tiny country in between the two tourism heavy-hitters, is the place to go for an authentic, crowd-free holiday in Europe.
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After living in and traversing much of France over the past few years, I sought something different. So last October, I hopped on the direct high-speed train from Paris to Barcelona to meet a friend who also favours lesser-visited corners of the world. We hired a rental car and headed to a new country.
Nestled between Spanish Catalonia and the southwest of France, most only visit Andorra for a day trip. That was our initial plan; with an eye on prioritising Costa Brava, three hours to Andorra’s east.
However, after just a few short hours, we both fell head over heels for the principality and scrapped our coastal plans in favour of this wonderful destination.
The capital, Andorra La Vella, did not impress upon first glance, but we grew fond of our base over the course of our three-day trip. I would recommend it to most travellers for a few reasons.
First, if you’re arriving via bus (trains will still drop you on the wrong side of the border and necessitate a local bus into Andorra) from Toulouse or Barcelona, it’ll probably drop you in La Vella. Additionally, the country is only 468 square kilometres, so you can easily visit every corner from the central location. Finally, the town provides the most accommodation and food options, which are even more limited during the shoulder and off-seasons.
Arriving in Andorra La Vella after scenic drives and hikes in the Pyrenees can, initially, be a bit of a letdown. As you descend into the valley (hence the name, La Vella) it looks like a big, modern sprawl. But, once you get into the main drag along the river and explore the Old Town, the charm becomes more apparent. Old cobblestone streets parallel modern highways and colourful building blocks are set against the surrounding mountain peaks. The weekend of our visit, a small artisan festival had set up numerous stalls along the river where passersby could sample and purchase Andorran treats and souvenirs.
Another decent option is Ordino (my pick for Andorra’s cutest town), especially in winter as it’s near one of the main ski stations. Although, it’s much smaller with fewer restaurants and other services.
Before making the spontaneous decision to spend our entire trip in Andorra and foregoing the coast, we beelined to the Engolasters Lake. I’d read online the lake loop made for an easy trek near the capital and figured it wouldn’t be too busy during late October.
The lake was cute, but the hues of orange and yellow dotting the mountainside made us gasp. To our delight, we had stumbled upon the ultimate “autumn in Europe” destination.
At the park’s chalet restaurant, we had our first introduction to what would become a standard interaction in Andorra. I went to the toilet while my friend ordered coffee in Spanish. When I came out, the barista asked me a follow-up question I couldn’t quite respond to so I asked “Parlez-vous français?” to which he replied “Oui.”
Catalan is the country’s official language, but most people speak Spanish and at least some French. Many cross-border workers also come in from France and Spain and like much of the world, English is increasingly common.
Then, eager to see more, we chose a beautiful drive through Ordino, El Serrat, and the Ordino ski station. Normally, you can take a gondola ride up from the lower parking lot but due to technical difficulties, it wasn’t running the day of our visit.
Luckily, the road was open all the way to the ski summit. We were much too early in the season to hit the slopes, but the upper lot is the starting point for two of Andorra’s main hikes. The newly opened (as of 2021) Mirador Solar de Tristaina is a giant sundial on the border between Andorra and France. You can either hike 5km with 450m of elevation gain or take a second chairlift up and enjoy a short 20-minute walk if trekking isn’t your thing. In winter, guides will take you on snowshoes or skis (the latter requires experience).
The weather wasn’t the best for the sundial, so we opted for the Estanys de Tristaina, three alpine lakes you can hike to from the same parking lot. It’s a 4.4km loop with 200m elevation.
On our second day, we continued to the Zona de Picnic Coma de Ransol area and hiked up to the Refugi de Cabana Coms de Jan hut, where valley views stretched forever. Another must-visit is the Madriu-Perafita-Claror Valley Unesco valley. There are numerous trail options.
As we drove and hiked throughout the country, the one constant was the herds of horses. They graze in contained pastures as well as on the side of the road and even right at the start of hikes. At one point, we took on the role of traffic controllers when a foal ventured into the road near a parking lot entrance.
This is due to Andorra’s horse-shepherd culture. We even witnessed a modern-day wrangle session when a horse got loose and some rancher had to block the road with a Range Rover: truly a sight to witness.
Food in Andorra is hit-or-miss. We never had a bad meal, but don’t expect anything mind-blowing. The prices are usually much higher, sometimes double those in France and Spain.
Our first dinner was at a highly recommended fondue spot. The truffle fondue we split was decent but quite expensive, €80 ($147) for a tiny amount (at least from what you usually get in France and Switzerland).
If there’s one restaurant I insist travellers visit, it’s UDON Andorra, a shockingly amazing Asian noodle place (difficult to find in Europe outside of major cities). Again, the price might shock you, but the money is well spent, especially if, like me and my friend, you were desperately craving spicy noodles.
For our daily caffeine fix, Andorra did not disappoint. The Catalan-founded, Santagloria Coffee Bakery chain is a solid option. However, if you’re a coffee snob like my Seattle-raised self, the place to go in La Vella is Kofi. It’s the only specialty coffee shop in the country and they even roast their beans, which can be purchased on-site.
Andorra is also an up-and-coming wine destination but you’ll need to reserve tastings in advance. Four of the country’s wineries, Borda Sabaté 1944, Casa Auvinyà, Casa Beal, and Celler Mas Berenguer are all located on Ctra de la Rabassa road. Casus Belli is the one exception, located in Ordino (another reason the town makes a great base).
Like many mountainous areas, Andorra shines as a wellness destination. Not only is there fresh mountain air everywhere, but the spa scene is fantastic. And this is where it’s worth not staying in La Vella, as the best spa and wellness centres are outside the capital. Check out the Sport Wellness Spa in Canillo and Grau Roig Andorra Boutique Hotel and Spa.
If you’re looking for a different way to relax, Andorra is the ideal place to indulge in retail therapy. Like so many microstates, the country has had to creatively grow its economy. Enter tax-free shopping. The main savings can be found in luxury clothing, makeup and skincare. Many people day-trip to La Vella solely to shop and save in a picturesque setting.
Most visitors head to Andorra in either summer for hiking the Pyrenees, or in winter, to ski. However, my autumn visit was a wonderful surprise, full of changing colours and crisp days.
Snow in the mountains typically occurs in late October/November. I would aim for earlier in October to avoid the fog and ice. Spring is also a great shoulder season to visit, but remember the snow can still be present in June.
Getting there
Fly from Auckland to either Barcelona or Toulouse and rent a car. Andorra is roughly 2.5 hours from Barcelona and 2 hours, 40 minutes from Toulouse. If arriving from mainland Europe, take the train to either city.
Details
visitandorra.com/en
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