NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Get on track: Taking trains across Europe

By Rachel Parkin
NZ Herald·
22 Sep, 2017 04:00 AM5 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Prague railways. Photo / Honza Barto.

Prague railways. Photo / Honza Barto.

Europe by rail has its charms, but check the terms of your ticket booking, advises Rachel Parkin

He cut an intimidating figure cloaked in shadow at Bad Reichenhall train station.
Tall. Broad shoulders. Wide-brimmed hat.

An ensemble that — in my simple mind — immediately conjured up the Heisenberg character in cult American drama Breaking Bad.

But once our Austrian host was under the light, his beaming face proved quite the opposite.

"Guten Abend, Kuschzggz Weissch dem Chasschsz?" Martin Fuchs (snr) seemed to say, hand outstretched.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Cue panicked high school German that probably translated to: "Me Rachel, this Michael... hallo, sausage chicken?"

And we were off — as if it was all quite normal — Martin driving us from the outskirts of Bavaria across the Austrian border to the tiny village of Unken.

In our prior communication his English-speaking son Martin (jnr) — the professional speed skater-turned ski instructor — had promised "a relaxing stay in nature" and "to meet our culture".

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

And so it was. An Austrian home away from home (our room was upstairs next to Grandma's).

Stunning scenery.

Hearty, traditional food.

And bulk, local beer (thanks to Martin snr's long-time employment with Steigl brewery).
Our time at the Fuchs' was also a technicolour advertisement for exploring Western Europe by rail, as mature(ish) backpackers, in winter.

Discover more

Travel

Australia: Ghan then

11 Sep 11:30 PM
Travel

Australia: Life on a red planet

17 Aug 09:00 PM
Travel

Australia: Train of thought

06 Oct 11:00 PM
Travel

Australia: Desolation in a parched and ancient land

27 Oct 08:00 PM

After all why would you fly — suffering through airport queues and lost baggage — when venturing off tourist-beaten paths into the regions, with fairytale views to boot, is so easy?

(Except in France — where it's fraught with frustration and exorbitant fees — but I'll get to that later).

In this case, we'd stumbled into an Austrian landscape befitting a luxury biscuit tin and we had it to our polyprop-swaddled selves.

It would have been rude not to.

So — borrowed Nordic poles in tow we set off — hiking the network of trails around Salzburger Saalachtal's multi-coloured chalets, immaculate gardens and pristine woodpiles ... until we lost light.

And we ate.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

First, came the mouthwatering knodel (Bavarian dumplings) at the family-run Heutaler Hof down the road.

The next day we arrived home to coffee, biscuits and Christstollen (rich Austrian Christmas cake). And later that night (after tucking into local sausages, black bread and vegetables in our room) the invitation from downstairs extended to Steigls and a tour of the 16th century family farm to get fresh milk for breakfast.

It is true that all of this could have happened with a flight into Salzburg, but would it have? Would we have bothered with the 45-minute bus ride after the rigmarole of flying?

On the flip-side, train travel also deposits you right in the city centres.

Take Prague.

Five minutes on foot from its central station and you're in the medieval Old Town sipping gluhwein and eating sausage-infused street food.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Or Rome.

A 10-minute walk here and you're pushing through selfie pole hawkers (how does everyone get half-price?) to snap your own selfie at the Colosseum.

Or Amsterdam. Here, dump your bags, join the mad throng of bikers and quickly pedal past coffee shops and along canals ... to its trendy 9 Streets district.

And here's the curveball.

European winter travel needn't be freezing.

Europe  by rail is still a romantic journey. Photo / Getty Images
Europe by rail is still a romantic journey. Photo / Getty Images

Though our ski week in the French Alps was magical, we also swam on the Cote d'Azur and sweated our way up hundreds of steps at Italy's Cinque Terre in short sleeves, passing just one other couple the entire day.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Which brings me to my second winter clincher.

No crowds.

And the third plus? Accommodation.

So much cheaper. In winter, a five-star luxury resort in Portugal's sun-kissed Algarve (owned by former international footballer Luis Figo no less) is easily within financial reach. Even for two journalists.

But as mentioned there is a major caveat.

La France. Les coqs rule their own rail roost.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

As a couple in our 30s we were a tad miffed to discover we didn't qualify for the cheapest EuRail pass.

By age-default (that is, over 25) we were in fact ... first class travellers.

So, largely thanks to France, gone are the days of freewheeling around Europe.

You must plan to make the rail pass cost-effective.

But if you do (and that needn't mean weeks in advance, just days) it's well worth it.

In the grand scheme of our two-month rail rodeo the French resistance was but a blip ... and to be totally honest, the compulsory first class travel, a welcome treat.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

We saw countryside, mountain ranges, villages, lakes and rivers we never would have by plane.

And there is still a romance about rail.

How could there not be with supermarket beer and a whole lot less navigational bickering?

TRAIN TIPS

• Over-25s must buy a first-class pass.
• Some countries require seat reservations.
• Reservations often incur additional fees.
• If extra travel time/train changes don't bother you reservations and/or fees can sometimes be avoided by using a string of provincial trains.
• To avoid a platform sprint, check the assigned position of your carriage on the composition board (these line up with A, B, C etc marked along the platform).
• Book accommodation near the central train station to avoid lugging bags.
• Use the bathrooms on board — they are clean and free — a blessing in Europe.
• Take food and drink with you and avoid the (often) expensive train menu.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel news

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM

This suburb is skipped in favour of flashier spots, but shouldn't be discounted.

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM
Flight from NZ has windscreen shattered after landing in Brisbane

Flight from NZ has windscreen shattered after landing in Brisbane

18 Jun 10:45 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP