Get on track in Christchurch

From the Garden City to the edge of the wilderness, Christchurch always has a warm welcome - no matter what the temperature is. KAREN PHELPS is tour guide.

Something new is in the air in Christchurch and it's not just spring. Word on the street is that the city is changing, shedding its conservative image for something a bit more up-beat.

There's an infectious buzz that's moving the city forward. A case in point is the re-development of Cathedral Square, a mixture of conservatism, tradition and innovation.

A bronze Christ by Auckland-based sculptor Terry Stringer welcomes people into the church's south-west doors - a contemporary, friendly figure in contrast to the traditional sculpture of John Robert Godley (founder of Canterbury in 1850) who gazes sternly down from his pedestal.

Outside the cathedral a banner promotes a jazz service to be held complete with an Elvis impersonator and dotted around the bland grey concrete slabs, tubs of brightly coloured polyanthus and violas sit alongside more modern crimson kale and parsley designs.



Nearby New Regent St is a drawcard with its candy-coloured Spanish-style facades.

The Daily Grind coffee shop has outdoor tables so you can watch the trams trundle past, Cubana sells Cuban coffee and cigars and Oltre il Bagno stocks locally handmade Buzz body treats, some of which come in the shapes that look good enough to eat.

At night the area also has some classy bars such as the Blue Note piano bar and restaurant and Six Chairs Missing, not to mention the Theatre Royal, which is just around the corner.

For something a bit different try dining on the tram. It's bound to attract a few curious stares as you eat your meal while the tram makes its circuit round the city by night.

The hippest area in the city is undoubtedly High St with stores stocking local designers, (Plush, Blonde Red, Tango, Novak), vintage clothing (Gerties, Forget-me-not) and some trendy cafes (C-1 Espresso and the Globe).

At night all the young and cool of the city migrate down to the Dux de Lux at the Arts Centre which has it all - restaurant, sports bar, outdoor courtyard, boutique brewery, free live (usually local) bands and even a swanky cocktail lounge bar upstairs.

Also popular are the bars and restaurants along Oxford Tce or what is commonly known as the Strip - which has nothing to do with strip clubs. Outside most of the bars you'll see shivering, goose pimple-covered lads and lasses queuing up to get a slice of the action. Oh yes, they breed them tough down here in the South. But the atmosphere is warm and friendly.

Easy to miss is Sammy's Jazz Review restaurant and bar tucked away down the little side street of Bedford Row (off Manchester St). It has atmosphere to the max - an interesting mix of people and live jazz every night.

On the weekends you can't beat the Arts Centre for variety. Originally the site of the old university, today the distinctive Gothic-revival stone buildings house more than 40 art galleries, craft studios and shops, theatres, cafes, restaurants and bars.

All are open seven days and on the weekends there is an outdoor craft market, buskers and ethnic food stalls.

Also popular is Riccarton Rotary Sunday Market held out at the Riccarton Park Racecourse (entrance off Racecourse Rd, off Yaldhurst Rd) every Sunday wet or fine from 9 am to 2 pm, which claims to be the largest in the South Island with more than 300 stalls.

If you're on a budget, head down to the Botanic Gardens, Canterbury Museum and Robert McDougall Art Gallery (all off Rolleston Ave) or walk around the beautiful gardens at Mona Vale (Fendalton Rd).

A 20-minute drive from town is the Groynes Picnic Reserve with wide-open spaces, trees, a gently meandering river and playground. Entry to all these places is free.

About 30 minutes' drive from the city centre is the laidback seaside suburb of Sumner. Generally home to those who want to get away from it all, it also attracts a number of artists and surfies who frequent the beach even in the middle of winter.

There are many quaint shops and the Hollywood Theatre (Marriner Street) is an old-style cinema with three screens, including the Silverstar Lounge with luxury armchairs.

A few distinctive restaurants are to be found on Wakefield Ave. Club Bazaar Pizzeria boasts eclectic kiwiana decor including antique memorabilia such as old amusement games from the 1890s to 1970s and a collection of old surfboards.

On the other side of the road, stairs lead up to an outdoor dining patio at the Ruptured Duck Pizzeria and Bar and at street level the Forget Me Not cafe, which serves up a diverse menu. Further up the street is the popular Cellinis with a focus on Mediterranean style food.

On the beach itself is Cave Rock - you can clamber your way to the top to get great views along the beach. Sumner beach is good for swimming and safe for children as long as they swim between the flags.

Next to Cave Rock on the end of a jetty is the On the Beach restaurant, a perfect place to sit and have a drink on a hot day.

Right at the eastern end of the beach is Scarborough, which has a playground and paddling pool for the children and award-winning Scarborough Fare restaurant and cafe by the Esplanade Clock Tower.

It is also possible to walk up Heberden Ave to Whitewash Heads and right around to Taylors Mistake Beach - it's a steep climb of about 3km, but worth the effort.

On the way to Sumner you'll pass the quiet suburb of Heathcote. Tucked away here is Ferrymead Historic Park, a unique treat to please children of all ages. Set up in the 1960s by volunteers it is basically Christchurch as it was in the early 1900s.

Ride old trains and trams or wagons led by Clydesdale horses then walk through a replica Edwardian village, complete with an old-fashioned bakery selling tasty goods baked on a wood-fired brick oven.

There is also a working print shop, blacksmiths, Hall of Flame (biggest display of old fire engines in the Southern Hemisphere) and post and telegraph museum with communication history from Morse code through to early telephone exchanges.

Heading in the other direction from Christchurch over the Port Hills is the town of Lyttelton with its historic Timeball Station - a stone castle-like building above Reserve Tce. Built in 1876 it is a fine example of Victorian technology.

While in port, ships used the timeball as a visual check to calibrate their chronometers. It still works today - the 115kg, 1.5m-wide black zinc ball drops at 1 pm daily.

The good thing about Christchurch is that, no matter who you are or what your budget, there's something for everyone. It's always had a lot to offer, but it's now getting even better.