NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Gentle giants of Cebu: Swimming with whale sharks in the Philippines

By Janina Roque
NZ Herald·
9 Mar, 2018 11:00 PM4 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

A 10m-long whale shark glides through the water, its white-spotted coat glistening under the sea. Photo / Getty Images

A 10m-long whale shark glides through the water, its white-spotted coat glistening under the sea. Photo / Getty Images

Just off the coast of Oslob, Janina Roque almost gets close enough to touch a whale shark.

It's 5.12am and our tour driver is not impressed. We were to leave Cebu City in the Philippines at 5am on the dot to make sure we made our date with the largest fish in the world, the whale shark.

We're in a rush because the best time to swim with the giant beasts is first thing in the morning during feeding time, and we don't want to get caught up in Cebu's rush-hour traffic.

Weaving in and out of lanes and overtaking vehicles despite oncoming traffic, our driver is in a serious hurry to get us to the small fishing village of Oslob, southeast of Cebu.

By this point, swimming with the sharks is the least of my concerns, I am just hoping to get there in one piece.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Luckily, it is a public holiday and we make it to the village in about three hours to be greeted by our tour guide, Kuya Iti.

It costs 1500 pesos — roughly $40 — to take care of all the trip expenses and snorkelling equipment hire.

Iti takes us to the briefing area and we sit alongside other tourists who look just as anxious as us.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

A staff member stands before us and recites the dos and don'ts before we can enter the water. First: "Sunscreen must not be worn." A handful of our group are told to wash off the sunscreen to keep the water pollutant-free. Then: "Always maintain a 4m distance between you and the sharks." And finally, the most important rule: "Don't touch the sharks! Touching the sharks is a serious offence and could cost you a fine or even jail time." After being fitted with snorkels and lifejackets three times our size, and filled with nervous excitement, we head to the beach where a small banca (outrigger canoe) is waiting for us.

We are crammed, in a single row, into this small canoe that would easily capsize if we make a wrong move, and have only paddled about 100m out from the beach when one of the boatmen yells "we are here".

Slightly surprised by the short distance we've covered, one by one we take off our jackets and make the plunge. Almost as soon as I jump in, not even having enough time to defog and adjust my snorkel, I hear one of the boatmen shout "there is one behind you. I will push you down. Take some photos."

"What?" I say in a panic. It all happens so fast. He signals "3, 2, 1" with his fingers and dunks me deep into the seawater. Not knowing what to expect, I slowly turn my head and there it is, a 10m-long, 19,000kg whale shark, calmly and majestically swimming past.

Discover more

Travel

Vietnam: Coffee holds its ground

09 Feb 01:00 AM
Travel

Thailand: Walk through time gone by

16 Feb 03:00 AM
Travel

The many flavours of Hong Kong

17 Feb 01:00 AM
Travel

Phuket: Cape cool

19 Feb 06:00 PM

Barely paying any attention to me or the rest of the group, it's as if it is the only living creature in the water.

About half a dozen "gentle giants" slowly circle our boat, with their mouths wide open, plundering the ocean's bounty for food.

Known to the locals as tuki or butanding, whale sharks vary in size, reaching lengths of 12m or more (equivalent to a bus). Despite their overwhelming size, there is not a moment where I feel fear, just utter amazement.

Moving at such a slow pace gives us perfect photo opportunities, but also allows us to observe these magnificent creatures close-up, as they slide through the water, their white-spotted coats glistening under the sea.

The current pushes us closer and closer to them and I find myself daydreaming, wanting to touch and pat them, but I know better. It is more advisable, I decide, to spend my remaining pesos on some duty-free shopping, instead of a fine.

When you are travelling in a group, there's always that one person who breaks the rules.
Unfortunately, this time that person is me.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Getting told off for being too close wasn't my intention; it was the current, I swear. At least I didn't touch.

Thirty minutes is over too fast.

I feel like a child getting taken away from a newly discovered playground. Just like that, it is time to say goodbye to our new friends.

As we paddle back to the shore, a new batch of tourists comes swarming in. I hope they remember the golden rule.

Checklist

GETTING THERE
Cathay Pacific flies from Auckland to Cebu City, via Hong Kong.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM
Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM

The trendy spot is just six minutes from the Waikiki beach.

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP