Piazza Unità d'Italia by the sea. Photo / Getty Images
Piazza Unità d'Italia by the sea. Photo / Getty Images
If you’re keen to visit Italy but you’re reluctant to deal with the hordes that swarm Rome and Venice, there’s always the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, writes Penny Sadler.
From the sparkling Adriatic Sea to the Austrian Alps, Friuli Venezia Giulia is an Italian gemhiding in plain sight. Blissfully free of crowds found in nearby Venice and Verona, Friuli offers idyllic landscapes for outdoor adventures, historic sites, and a rich food and wine culture.
Trieste is Friuli’s capital on the Adriatic Sea. Get to know Trieste by taking a coffee at Caffé San Marco on Piazza Unita d’Italia, said to be one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy. In an article for BBC, Susan Van Allen wrote that Friuli is Italy’s capital of coffee and author James Joyce was known for spending hours in Trieste’s elegant cafes. An integral part of the city’s identity, Coffee aside, Trieste has a lot to offer.
Piazza Unita d’Italia is said to be one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy. Photo / 123rf
Begin at the photogenic Miramare Castle built in the Romantic style by Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximillian. Explore the ornate interiors and tropical gardens installed by the Duke, all with ocean views.
From Miramare Castle make your way to Faro della Vittoria, a lighthouse commemorating WWI sailors, with spectacular views over the Gulf of Trieste.
Also worth a visit is the Museum Revoltella. The former residence of Baron Pasquale Revoltella, an important merchant in Trieste, he willed the mansion to the city to be used as a museum for fine art. The Museum Revoltella houses a rich collection of 19th and 20th century art.
Miramare Castle, built by Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximillian, offers panoramic views of the Adriatic. Photo / 123rf
Udine
Udine, sometimes referred to as little Venice, is the region’s second-largest city. Venice ruled Udine for centuries and that influence is visible in the architecture of the city. Piazza della Libertá is a beautiful square reflecting the influence of the Venetian Republic. You’ll see the Lion of St. Marks, a symbol of Venice, and the Loggia del Lionello built in Venetian Gothic style with pink and white marble. Don’t miss the Diocesan Museum and Tiepolo Galleries housed in a 15th-century palazzo, home to the current archbishop. While Udine may resemble Venice, over-tourism is blissfully absent.
Piazza della Libertá is a beautiful square reflecting the influence of the Venetian Republic. Photo / 123rf
While there are other interesting villages and hamlets to explore, Friuli is also known for its natural beauty.
Whether you choose to cycle through the Alps or explore subterranean landscapes, Friuli is the perfect place to experience the great outdoors.
Udine is sometimes referred to as little Venice. Photo / 123rf
Caves La Grotta Gigante
Friuli is peppered with caves including La Grotta Gigante or the giant cave, the largest show cave in Europe. You do need to be somewhat fit to access the 500 steps into the cave and 500 steps out. If descending 100 metres into the earth is not your thing, or you’re not physically able, there is a museum at the site. La Grotta Gigante is about 20 minutes from Trieste.
Friuli Venezia Giulia’s Grotta Gigante is the largest show cave in Europe, with 500 steps leading into its depths. Photo / 123rf
The Alpe Adria Path
The ultimate in slow travel, cycling the Alpe Adria path from Salzburg, home of Mozart, to Grado, Italy on the Adriatic Sea, is a must if you have the time. The path follows the old rail line and can combine train travel with bike paths.
Most cyclists take one week to do this ride, breathing in the pristine Alpine air, and admiring the glaciers and waterfalls along the way. There are stopping points at historic sites and Medieval villages where you can indulge in the regional cuisines of three states: Salzburg, Carinthia, and Friuli.
The trail is rated easy to moderate so you don’t need to be a pro cyclist. However, you can also hike the Alpe Adria path, although it doesn’t follow the train line. The trail is not difficult but you should be fit enough to handle ascents and descents of up 1500 metres and eight hours of walking per day. Full immersion in nature with lookout points and other markers of interest are your reward.
Historic Friuli
Ancient history and archaeology buffs will love Aquileia, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Built by the Romans in 181 BC, Aquileia is sometimes referred to as “the other Rome”. Extensive excavations have uncovered a port, a mausoleum, cemetery, and the incredible Patriarchal Basilica.
Of enormous importance is the magnificent mosaic floor in the basilica, the largest early Christian mosaic in the Western world. Plan to spend at least two hours here.
Ancient history and archaeology buffs will love Aquileia, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Photo / 123rf
Food and wine
What makes Friuli stand out in a country known for excellence in food and wine is the blend of cultures: Austrian, Slovenian, Venetian, and Italian, something you don’t find in other regions. Known for aromatic white wines, you’ll also find Cabernet Franc, Pinot Nero, and an indigenous variety, Refosco, plus many others.
The cuisine incorporates elements of land and sea: Branzino, gnocchi, polenta, risotto, and meat paired with food-friendly wines. Be sure to try the local Montasio DOP cheese and San Daniele ham from the eponymous village.
If a trip to Friuli is not already on your bucket list, it should be. Once you get a taste of Friuli, you’ll want to keep it to yourself.
Friuli is renowned for its white wines, including Pinot Grigio and the indigenous Refosco variety. Photo / 123rf
CHECKLIST
FRIULI, ITALY
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Trieste, the capital of the Friuli region, with two stopovers with Emirates, Air NZ and Lufthansa on a Star Alliance Codeshare basis.
