KEY POINTS:
We walk an ancient path along the top of an escarpment above the Loire Valley. Below us, the silver-grey river hugs the town of Chinon then curls away into the distance. Chinon, with steep grey slate roofs jigsawed together, looks medieval.
My partner, Sam, strides ahead so he is the first to stop, stumped by smoke coming out of a deep hole in the ground just to the left of the path. We sniff.
It's wood smoke and a kind soul has placed a couple of sturdy branches in front of the hole to stop walkers stumbling in.
We figure that somewhere in a cave below us, troglodytes are toasting themselves by the fire on this cold spring day.
Troglodyte. The word has a hobbity resonance, conjuring up images of troll-like monsters or little people living underground, but in the Loire and adjoining valleys, troglodytes are ordinary folk who live or work in caves.
Hundreds of thousands of years ago, the great river and its tributaries created wide valleys bordered by limestone escarpments. Only thousands of years ago, the first people dug into the soft stone sides of the escarpments to create dwellings. By the Middle Ages, whole villages - including churches, manor houses, animals' quarters, wineries and bakeries - were built into cliffs.
Over time, increasingly sophisticated mining techniques allowed the extraction of the cream limestone for building. This stone, tufa, is used to build many of the villages and fairytale chateaux that perch magnificently above the river, and a by-product of the mining process was the creation of hundreds of kilometres of caves and tunnels.
We have topographical maps to guide us on our week-long walk and all the major caves are marked, so I circle caves near our route.
The first ones we see are near the village of Chapelle St-Blaise, in a neat row on an embankment opposite an old manor house. The tufa to build the house came from the caves, serendipitously creating humble homes for farm workers. Now the neat numbered row of cave-lodgings are used as bachelor pads and blokes' sheds.
A man is tending a car engine outside one and the front door is open, so I peek in. It's about the size of an Auckland studio apartment and has a single bed, a bench and a simple kitchen.
Our walk takes us past a row of houses nudging a cliff. The front rooms are built of stone and the bedrooms at the back are cave rooms dug into the cliff.
I have a stumbling conversation with a troglodyte about his extensive riverside vegetable garden - rows of lettuces, broad beans, spring onions and tiny tomato plants - when what I really want to talk about, but don't have the language skills, is his cute little half-cave house.
Although Loire caves provided homes to thousands for centuries, over the past 100 years they were discarded as people demanded more light and comfort.
Deserted caves often became homes to tramps and other unsavoury characters and we pass plenty, near Chinon, painted with graffiti, their doors pushed in and windows broken. Red poppies grow among wine bottles out the front.
But cave dwellings are becoming fashionable again, especially as holiday homes. New heating and ventilation techniques add to their comfort and caves are synonymous with "green" values. They are soundproof, naturally insulated and impervious to extremes of heat and cold and, for Parisians who want a quiet escape, the Loire is only 90 minutes away on a fast train.
Loire caves have been used as wineries for centuries and on our wanderings it's these caves we enjoy most. Chateau Vallee des Veaux is theoretically open for tastings, but it is early in the tourist season so we have to bang on the sturdy cave door to rouse a vintner. The long wine hall hasn't been used for months and roof dirt and small stones litter the table. We taste three reds, buy a bottle of bubbly for later, and continue along our path with a spring in our step.
Our last few Loire days are spent in cave heaven - the Saumur area, which celebrates its troglodyte tradition. In the vineyard, Cave des Vignerons de Saumur, the roof is nicely mouldy and the walls are lined with rows of reds.
We visit mushroom caves - Champignonniere du Saut aux Loups - where 11 different kinds of mushrooms are grown. Until two years ago, 50 people worked here growing tonnes of mushrooms for the Paris market in 5km of connecting caves, but big production has moved to temperature and humidity-controlled warehouses.
We stay in Demeure de la Vignole, a boutique hotel overlooking the Loire, a few kilometres up-river from Saumur.
It's owned by the indomitable Madame Muriel and there are eight rooms, three of which are in caves across the courtyard. They are bright, light and modern; their front walls mostly glass.
I would like to say I sleep in one but it's not to be - the cave rooms are booked - but I do swim in Madame's underground pool.
Steamy and darkly lit with blue sidelights, it has a grotto-like ambience that is slightly spooky. It's the strangest swimming pool and it's the closest I get to feeling like a true troglodyte.
- Detours, HoS
IF YOU GO
Cathay Pacific flies from Auckland to Paris every day via Hong Kong
French fast trains are affordable, comfortable and efficient. There are many trains each day to the city of Tours, on the Loire. Buy a France Railpass or a Eurail Pass before you go. www.railplus.co.nz / (09) 377 5415.
Inntravel features 85 independent walking holidays providing something for everyone, from gentle coastal strolls to high mountain hikes.
Mushroom caves at www.troglo-sautauxloups.com
Demeure de la Vignole at www.demeure-vignole.com
