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Home / Travel

France: The lavish lifestyles of Loire

By PK Stowers
NZ Herald·
18 Nov, 2014 02:00 AM5 mins to read

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Chateau Villlandry was completed around 1536 and was the last of the large chateaux built in the Loire Valley during the renaissance. Photo / PK Stowers

Chateau Villlandry was completed around 1536 and was the last of the large chateaux built in the Loire Valley during the renaissance. Photo / PK Stowers

PK Stowers travels to France's Loire Valley and discovers its historic chateaux.

"As you can see, the Loire Valley features gently rolling hills. Barely a valley at all in some areas, although more noticeably in others."

Pascal Mineau from Loire Valley Tours is our guide and chats freely as he drives to Chateau Villandry - the first of five chateaux we will see in the next three days.

Photos: Chateaux of the Loire Valley

It's easy to see why the area is such a popular destination for tourists and amateur historians. Some of the towns we pass through look like they have barely changed in hundreds of years.

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Named after France's longest river, the valley stretches from Orleans to Nantes (about 280km). It is also referred to as the "cradle of the French language" because of its rich history of human habitation going back thousands of years.

The Loire is also renowned for its magnificent chateaux, from mediaeval fortresses to renaissance palaces, all within a relatively short distance of each other. These five are within 45 minutes' drive.

Chateau Villandry

Chateau Villandry was completed around 1536 and was the last of the large chateaux built in the Valley during the renaissance. It was built by Jean le Breton (France's Finance Minister at that time) on the site of an old 12th-century castle.

Le Breton spent most of his time in Italy studying gardening, so no surprise that Chateau Villandry is famous for that. The present owner, Henri Carvallo, kindly gave us a guided tour around the estate and chateau, including its impressive art collection. He mentioned he had recently visited Dunedin and had tried magnificent New Zealand white wines, but joked they were "best enjoyed in New Zealand".

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When the tour finished at the top of the historic castle keep, Henri excused himself because he had to "buy a forest". This time we didn't think he was joking.

Chateau Chambord

Chateau Chambord's roofscape has often been compared to that of a town's skyline. Photo / PK Stowers

With 440 rooms, 365 fireplaces and 84 staircases, the valley's largest chateau was never intended to provide defence from enemies. It was built by King Francois I as a hunting lodge.

At the centre of the main keep is a unique double-helix staircase - two spiralling sets of stairs that never meet. The design was discovered in the rooms of Leonardo da Vinci after his death and incorporated in the design (da Vinci was a close friend of the monarch and "First painter, architect and engineer of the king".)

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The roofscape has often been compared to that of a town's skyline with 11 types of tower and three types of chimney.

Unfortunately, Francois (who was a keen sportsman) spent only 72 days at the "lodge" although it is surrounded by a 5261ha wooded game reserve. He considered it too difficult to heat. We visited it on a chilly afternoon and can attest to the building's draughtiness.

Chateau Royal de Blois

The King's bed chamber at Chateau Royal de Blois. Photo / PK Stowers

Chateau Royal de Blois was steadily developed around its great hall built around 1220. The four wings of its main courtyard (mediaeval, gothic, renaissance and classical) offer a great insight into the architecture of the Loire Valley.

The King's bed chamber, site of its most infamous incident, is on the top floor of the renaissance wing also built under Francois. The rooms have been restored with many original paintings and furniture from the era.

According to legend, the Duke de Guise collapsed at the foot of the King's bed after being stabbed by eight assassins acting on the orders of King Henri III. He was alleged to have organised a coup.

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Other highlights include a fine arts museum featuring eight rooms of paintings and sculptures from the 16th to 19th centuries.

Chateau de Chenonceau

Chateau de Chenonceau belonged to King Henri II. Photo / PK Stowers

The Chateau de Chenonceau was built over the Cher River on the site of an old mill in the 16th century to house the "ladies" of King Henri II - particularly Diane de Poitiers, his favourite mistress. So fond of Diane was the King (20 years her junior) that he gave her the castle.

However, upon the King's death in 1559, following a combat tournament, the King's legitimate wife - Catherine de Medici - became regent and took the ornate chateau back.

Originally, the chateau did not span the river; Diane had a bridge built. When Catherine took over she had an Italian-style gallery built over Diane's bridge.

Most rooms are open to the public, furnished and decorated in the style of the period, including the kitchens. The remarkable French-style gardens are tended daily throughout the year, with 130,000 bedding plants grown on site.

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Chateau Royal Amboise

The Chateau Royal at Amboise. Photo / PK Stowers

Built on the Loire banks, construction began in the 11th century, but it was extensively redesigned and rebuilt from 1492 by King Charles VIII. He died here aged just 28 in 1498, running to watch a tennis game when he struck his head on a door frame. What remains unexplained is how the famously short king hit his head on the frame.

Francois I was raised in the chateau and when he became king, in 1515, became a great patron of renaissance arts - poets, thinkers, artists and designers.

He invited da Vinci to France in 1516 and gave him the nearby Chateau du Clos Luce, where the Tuscan artist lived until his death in 1519. At his request, da Vinci is buried here.

After the French Revolution, the chateau suffered several phases of deliberate destruction and only one fifth of the structure has survived.

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Getting there: Take the TGV high-speed train from Paris to Tours (approx 80 minutes) which is a short drive from the towns of Amboise and Blois.

Further information: To learn more about touring France's Loire Valley, contact Tempo Holidays.

PK Stowers travelled to France with assistance from Tempo Holidays and AirAsia X.

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