KEY POINTS:
What on earth is the silhouette of a phrygian cap - the funny hat worn in the French Revolution - doing beside the beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral in Strasbourg?
Our guide, Julie, seems delighted at the question - and with good reason. It's an interesting story, one of
many to arise in the course of a wander round this marvellous old city.
These days Strasbourg may be part of France but its name is of German origin - it means "town at the crossing of roads" - because the city has been obliged to change its nationality, language and customs many times over the centuries.
Even the elegant cathedral, despite seeming to tower above earthly matters, has had to swap from Catholic to Lutheran and back again as its rulers changed ... or changed their minds.
Anyway, as Julie explained, in the course of one of those upheavals Strasbourg found itself under the control of the forces of the French Revolution, who felt the cathedral's 142m high tower, the tallest in the world at the time, was an affront to their guiding principle of equality.
These fanatics were actually planning to pull the tower down when a local locksmith came up with the brilliant idea of making a huge metal phrygian cap to put on top of the spire, thus transforming the cathedral into a symbol of the revolution, high enough to send the republican message across the adjacent border into Germany. The Jacobeans were impressed and the cathedral was saved.
Strasbourg was my first stopping point in a cruise down the Rhine on the Avalon Tapestry and its interesting mix of cultures made the perfect introduction to the 900km journey.
Over here, Julie pointed out, is a haughty palace built by the German kaisers. Over there is a palace which once housed French bishops. The mix of architectural styles is amazing.
That memorial is to the American troops who liberated Strasbourg in World War II. Those figures wearing phrygian caps and carrying the tricolour commemorate the French Revolution. And, by the way, did you know that the French national anthem, La Marseillaise, was composed in Strasbourg? Yes, Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle apparently wrote it in 1792 in the course of a dinner organised by the city's mayor and it was later taken up by the Jacobeans.
It got its title, Julie explains - a little grumpily I thought - because some volunteers from Marseille sang it loudly to announce their arrival in Paris. Otherwise it might have been called La Strasbourgeoise ... a name which might have presented a problem for the revolutionaries.
Strasbourg sits at the point where the River Ill meets the Rhine, making it a vital trading centre down the ages, and much of the oldest part of the city is built on a series of canals and islands.
Cruising the canals opens up a fairytale world of picturesque half-timbered houses with geraniums flourishing in their window boxes, ancient stone towers built to defend the city, venerable churches and ornate bridges - including the Torturers' Bridge from which miscreants used to be hung in cages until they drowned.
Then there's the cathedral, started in 1176 and, because of a shortage of cash, not finished until 1439. Strangely it is made all the more attractive by the fact that only the northern tower was ever built, giving it a distinctive lopsided look.
You could spend all day just wandering round the outside looking at the thousands of marvellous figures sculpted to illustrate religious stories.
My favourite tells the tale (Matthew 25:1-13) of the foolish virgins, showing a rich, handsome young man with a self-satisfied smirk on his face, holding up an apple and obviously proving very attractive to the four simpering maidens alongside.
Unfortunately, the maidens can't see - but visitors can if they know where to look - that the young man's evil intentions are revealed by the snakes and toads climbing down his back.
There are more delightful figures inside. My favourite was the figure of a small dog lying peacefully at the base of the intricately carved pulpit, apparently built for 15th Century fire and brimstone preacher Geiler von Kaysersberg.
It stands out from the rest of the carving, partly due to its unexpected cuteness amid a pile of sombre gothic figures, but mainly because over the centuries it has been turned black by the hopeful touch of thousands of hands. "Legend has it," says Julie, "that if you touch the dog you can wish for something, not for yourself but for someone else, and it will be granted."
Julie didn't know how the legend arose or even why the dog was there - "probably it was the pet of the carver or maybe the preacher" - but it was a nice story, so along with everyone else I duly touched the dog and wished for good health for my family.
There's another delightful story behind the figure of a man resting his elbows on a balustrade in the south transept. Apparently, this was a rival of the transept's architect who said the design wouldn't work and he would watch as it came crashing down. He's been watching now for about 600 years.
Just below the statue is the cathedral's extraordinary astronomical clock, which combines impressive astronomical accuracy - predicting phases of the moon, the positions of the planets and the dates of Christian festivals - with charming clockwork figures, including the Apostles passing before Christ.
Of course Strasbourg has seen more than its share of death and in the huge Place de la République is a statue depicting Mother Strasbourg, who sits embracing her two dead sons, both soldiers, one German and one French.
It was unveiled in 1936, three years before France and Germany fought for the third time in 70 years.
But today Strasbourg, as the capital of the European Union, is an important focus of hopes that the continent's terrible wars are a thing of the past.
The city's grand public buildings these days are not palaces and churches but homes for European institutions such as the Council of Europe and its parliament that stands on either side of the Ill River.
It is almost worth a visit to Strasbourg just to admire these spectacular and imposing examples of modern architecture.
But to my mind the most fascinating thing about the European Parliament came in another story from Julie. "These buildings cost, I think, 600 million ($1.15 billion) and they are used only three-and-a-half days a month for parliament's plenary sessions. The rest of the time the EU's work is done in Brussels and Luxembourg."
* Jim Eagles cruised down the Rhine as a guest of Air New Zealand and Avalon Waterways.
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand's seasonal fares to Europe start at $2599 plus airport and government charges. Travel is on Air NZ and partner airlines Swiss and KLM. See www.airnewzealand.co.nz, call (0800) 737 000 or visit an Air New Zealand Holidays Store.
CRUISING THE RHINE
Avalon Waterways is offering eight-day Romantic Rhine river cruises, visiting some of Europe's most picturesque regions, from April to October 2008.
The cruises are available from Basel to Amsterdam or from Amsterdam to Basel, visiting the towns of Strasbourg, Heidelberg, Mainz, Coblenz and Cologne along the way.
Built in 2006, Avalon Tapestry features a lounge and restaurant at its front, as well as an outside viewing deck enabling passengers to enjoy the scenery as they cruise.
Most staterooms have floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors for optimal viewing.
All meals onboard are included, with wine complimentary with dinner.
Fares are priced from $3019 per person twin share for a cruise departing June 15.
Other departure dates are available including June 22, July 20, August 3, August 10 and October 26.
MORE INFORMATION
See your licensed travel agent or visit avalonwaterways.co.nz for a brochure and free DVD.
