Waiheke Island's Tantalus Estate is the ideal spot for a long, decadent lunch. Photo / Supplied
Waiheke Island's Tantalus Estate is the ideal spot for a long, decadent lunch. Photo / Supplied
Anna King Shahab
Seafood towers, laid-back family feasting, and the return of the properly long lunch – a summer break on Waiheke yielded a triptych of dining experiences, all very different, and all of which I’d highly recommend.
Heke, Yes!
Last summer we made a beeline for newly opened TheHeke in Onetangi, loving its relaxed, come-as-you-are vibe, generous outdoor seating, friendly service, and family and group-friendliness. The outdoor play area is within reach in just the right way, the QR-code table ordering makes it easy for groups to pay-as-they-go. This summer we were thrilled to find a menu that has grown in size and breadth, with the very good pizzas joined by things like silky, salty carpaccio, tuna tartare, and smoked fish whip with pillowy focaccia. The kids loved the southern fried chicken, smashed burger, and the “kids”-sized (read: still huge) pizza.
The business is a “stronger together” union of two local families. Waiheke Whisky makers Mark and Ro Izzard joined Waiheke Brewing folks Mark and Vivian Hindmarsh. You’ll find the couples and their offspring working the floor at The Heke, which is one reason the place feels so welcoming; the hospitality feels homely. A walk through the distillery-in-construction with co-owner Mark Izzard reveals great things to come: a brewery and whisky distillery that will work symbiotically, and another restaurant space, which current The Heke chef Andrei Rotar will helm. Rotar, who previously worked at Auckland’s Alta and Blenheim’s Harvest, has clear ambitions for degustation style dining and considered drinks matches, both whisky-driven and non-alcoholic. Speaking of drinks, do try the Garden Gin & Tonic – their signature gin features botanicals from on site, the best straight-up G&T I’ve had this summer – and the negroni is a great way to wrap up an afternoon.
The kitchen team at Waiheke's The Heke. Photo / Anna King Shahab
Island Pearl
It had been several years since I’d skipped up the staircase to The Oyster Inn, and the first time since Josh and Helen Emett took over. Now is a great time to go, folks – Josh and his kitchen team including head chef Jamie Wharekawa-Hogg have overhauled the menu, heroing local kaimoana more than ever with the seafood tower (tip: the tower to serve 2–4 is rather a lot of food if you are, as we were, only two at the table). Don’t miss the oyster roll (Te Matuku oyster, battered and fried, in a scrumptious brioche bun with harissa mayo, topped with pickled zucchini). Steak fan? The scotch fillet was perfectly cooked, served with super-rich mushroom a la creme and rosemary fries – it would be impossible to go home hungry following this reassuringly hearty number.
Innkeepers Sam and Kate sail the ship expertly and their wine knowledge - plus an Italian chef being welcomed on to the team - has seen a shakeup on the drinks list with a focus on islands including Sicily, the Greek Islands, and of course, Waiheke. With its location in the heart of Oneroa Village and views across rooftops to the distant Coromandel Peninsula, The Oyster Inn nails the urban sophistication-meets-island charm brief.
Innkeeper Sam from Waiheke's The Oyster Inn, owned by Josh and Helen Emett. Photo / Anna King Shahab
Lunch Goals
If there’s ever a reason to set aside a good half day for pure pleasure, a booking at Tantalus for its Trust the Chef menu is it. From the moment you’re seated (a personalised welcome note and the day’s menu, printed on recycled paper embedded with wildflower seeds to take home and scatter), you’re in for a rather long treat. Allow three hours … though we spent almost five! You can opt for snacks and either three or five courses, plus there are supplement dishes, which generally feature rare ingredients the kitchen has secured, that might also catch your eye.
Snacks from Tantalus Estate on Waiheke Island. Photo / Anna King Shahab
Chef Gideon Landman (formerly of Baduzzi and The French Cafe) has had a few years to soak up the island vibes and it shows: I’d say Waiheke cuisine has truly arrived thanks to what Gideon is plating up here. Part of that is down to his use of local produce grown and foraged (our menu boasted coastal succulents, nettle, kawakawa, olive branch, and Tantalus’ honey) which he crafts into a multitude of courses that collectively paint a picture of the place. Luxurious inclusions such as Auckland scampi, crayfish, Lumina lamb and the creme de la creme of NZ salmon, Ora King’s Tyee, made for an experience that was truly a cut above.
The wine matches are all Tantalus Estate wines of Waiheke origin – apart from a glass of Ruinart Brut NV from Reims in our case, which was poured to match the salmon supplement dish in a totally killer move, and Pedro Ximenez sherry with the bitter chocolate cremeaux dessert. Sommelier Linda is a star – she has experience working on Waiheke vineyards across many vintages and imparts knowledge in an easy, warm manner.
As well as that Champagne salmon marriage, my favourite pairing had to be Heirloom tomatoes with a crazy-good Mahoe cheese croquette and foraged nettle pesto matched with pinot gris from the very vines we gazed out on to. Texturally and flavour-wise, it was stunning.
