Following royal footsteps

By HEATHER RAMSAY*

Light stabbed my eyes like needles and sent me scrabbling for my sunglasses. Before me, white sand fanned out in a long arc on either side, a pearly scimitar punctuated by smooth round boulders that gave the beach character and definition.

The waters of the Gulf of Thailand lay flat and blue, barely heaving under the afternoon sun. It seemed the heat and humidity that had driven beach-goers to lie torpid under palm trees and umbrellas had even suppressed the movement of the ocean waves.

Footprints made webs across the sand - to and from the water, up and down the shore - and I wondered if royal feet had made any of them. This was the beach at Hua Hin, a favourite retreat for the Thai royal family, where His Majesty Bhumibol Adulyadej now spends most of his time. The palace is near the beach where I stood, and raised yellow flags outside his palace alerted the masses that the King was in residence.

I wondered whether I could work out the odds of swimming in the ocean at the same moment as a member of the royal family, but the mathematical challenge was quickly abandoned, thanks to the heat.

However, like an annoying song that I couldn't get out of my head, these idle musings dogged me throughout my stay. Everywhere I walked, whether on the beach, in the market or in the town, I wondered if I was following in the footsteps of royalty.

Thailand's royal Chakri dynasty was founded in 1782, with each successive king holding the title Rama, followed by a number. Despite other political events that have often troubled Thailand, the monarchy has remained strong and the royal family is regarded with reverence.

King Bhumibol became Rama IX in 1946, and his reign is the longest in Thai history. The saxophone-playing jazz composer is a favourite of the people.

Rama VI started the royal association with Hua Hin in 1923, when doctors advised the ailing king that fresh seaside air would be beneficial to his health. His summer palace of golden teak was built beside the beach, and bears the romantic name Mrigadayavan Palace, or the "Royal Home of Love and Hope".

The palace is held aloft by more than 1000 pillars, and a network of raised walkways links the rooms of the court officials, the king, the queen and what our guide termed the "minor queens".

Following traditional Thai architecture, much of the palace is open to the elements, allowing the healing breeze to swirl around and below.

The area is now a celebrated wellness centre, perhaps because royal doctors recommended the salubrious air of Hua Hin as a tonic.

Numerous spa resorts offer therapeutic massage and health and beauty treatments, and even international royalty seek the benefits. The world-class health retreat of Chiva-Som has attracted the King and Queen of Sweden, Sarah Ferguson and Viscount and Viscountess Linley, as well as people such as model Liz Hurley.

Blue blood obviously doesn't flow in my veins, because when a dainty Thai girl knelt to clean my feet in a stone bowl filled with scented water and rose petals, I felt uncomfortable with her subservient position.

But after being soothed and anointed in a wonderful two-hour aromatherapy massage and facial, accompanied by the soft strains of Thai music and the tinkle of water into a lotus pond, I realised that the taste for such luxury and pampering is quickly acquired.

Golf is another Hua Hin pursuit with royal connections. HRH Prince Kampaengpetch commissioned the Royal Hua Hin Golf Course, which opened in 1924. The course remains a favourite with Thais and visitors alike, but it now competes with half a dozen stunning new courses.

One that also bears the "royal" appellation is Springfield Royal Country Club. During our visit I tried to unravel its royal ties. I couldn't, but I did discover that the king of golf, Jack Nicklaus, designed it. This superb, picturesque course is considered one of the best in Thailand.

Elephants are venerated in Thailand and have played an important role in the country's development, from working in the jungles to carrying Thai armies.

Unfortunately, modern machinery has usurped the traditional roles of elephants, and many hitherto valuable beasts are unwanted and neglected. Tourism at least offers a beacon of hope for these domesticated animals, and throughout Thailand tourists can enjoy a variety of elephant experiences.

In the hills behind Hua Hin we took an elephant ride around an impressive temple, past imposing, golden Buddhas and along a trail on the hillside. Much as I love elephants, this brief encounter confirmed my view that their rolling gait makes them the least comfortable of beasts to ride.

Fortunately my mount didn't sense my ungracious thoughts and spray me with a trunk full of stagnant water when we ploughed through a deep pond as a grand finale.

While the ride was something I'll never forget, my discomfort was further proof of my bourgeois roots since elephants were the preferred mode of transport for kings throughout Asia for centuries. In Thailand the rare white elephant is of special significance, a noble beast suitable for royal duties.

If elephants carry kings, and polo is a favourite sport of kings, what could be more regal than elephant polo? Hua Hin hosts the annual King's Cup Elephant Polo Tournament, a five-day event that attracts spectators and competitors from all over the world.

In September, India's Maharajah of Jodphur, the Crown Prince of Tonga and a group of Britain's King's Royal Hussars will compete for the title. Proceeds go to the Government's National Elephant Institute, which assists with the welfare of elephants and mahouts.

Hua Hin retains strong royal associations, but it is also a popular getaway spot for rank-and-file Thais, who arrive to enjoy the sea air and the town's famous seafood restaurants.

A Thai cooking class at a simple establishment built over the water was an eye-opener. The view almost distracted us from our patient tutors, but when it was time to down our spicy concoctions of prawns, fish and squid, my verdict was a cliche - fit for a king.

When to go:

November to February is the cool, dry season and the generally the best time to visit Thailand. Hua Hin locals say they have less rain than other centres. Flying from Auckland to Bangkok return costs around $1380 on Thai Airways plus taxes. Food Hua Hin was originally a fishing village. Small restaurants dot the foreshore, and some well-priced eateries are right on the sand. Most resorts have more than one restaurant, and serve continental food as well as Thai food.

Cooking lessons:

These can be arranged through restaurants and hotels. If you have cooked Thai food before, ask for an advanced lesson.

Spas and health resorts:

Mandara Spas are found at the Marriott and Anantara Resorts. Evason Resort has a Six Sense Spa, and Chiva Som provides a personalised diet, exercise, health and relaxation regime.

Golf: You can arrange packages, which include accommodation and sightseeing, or just single games. Hua Hin Golf Tours is a leading local operator.

Elephant polo:

Organised by Anantara Resort, from September 16-23.


* Heather Ramsay was hosted by the Tourism Authority of Thailand and Thai Airways.

www.tourismthailand.org

www.thaiairways.com