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Home / Travel

Flockhill: What’s it like to stay in New Zealand’s $15,000pn sheep station?

Thomas Bywater
By Thomas Bywater
Writer and Multimedia Producer·NZ Herald·
10 Apr, 2023 06:00 PM6 mins to read

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Thomas Bywater stays in Canterbury's most glamorous high country station.

Location: Arthur’s Pass at the head of Lake Pearson, Canterbury.

Style: Modern, massive, and might be the world’s most glamorous sheep station.

Perfect for: A high-country lodge experience, for when money is no object.

First impressions: A sea of dun wool rolls over the valley floor. Turning off Highway 73 past Castle Hill, the first impression is the overwhelming sound of 3000 ewes being weaned from their lambs. The lodge’s situation on a working farm is a point of pride. It would, after all, be nothing without its flock. Driving out of the dust bowl, construction site and up the side of Broken Hill, the landscape begins to make sense. So does Flockhill’s aspiration to be one of New Zealand’s most luxurious residences. Visitors are greeted by the low-lying building whose solid concrete walls look part luxury bach, part bunker. On the other side, is a wall of North-facing windows.

Designed by architects Warren & Mahoney, it’s all about that view: fields of wool, Sugar Loaf, and Lake Pearson framed by the Arthur’s Pass valley.

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Rooms: Flock Hill sleeps up to 8. The lodge is split into east and west wings, with two double rooms in each. There’s no master bedroom. As a sole occupancy property, all rooms follow a similar design, oriented towards the view down the valley.

In the space under the cavernous vaulted roof and poured concrete walls, fits a king bed and a wardrobe. From dressing gowns to wetsuits and panama hats - for guests to be sun smart on the enormous stone terrace - each room is well kitted out.

A pair of armchairs sit in front of the bed, leading out to further upholstered deckchairs on the concrete, like seating before a cinema screen. Even the large enamel bath is pressed up against the window, soaking up the views.

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Flockhill: The lodge would be nothing without its flock. Photo / Thomas Bywater
Flockhill: The lodge would be nothing without its flock. Photo / Thomas Bywater

Bathroom: Apart from the large, double-ended bath, the washroom also contains a wall shower.

Toiletries are supplied from New Zealander Lucy Vincent’s Sans [ceuticals] range. High-end, Kiwi skincare with natural aspirations - a good fit for the lodge.

Food and drink: From no fewer than five blends of locally-sourced honey to homemade Kawakawa tonic, there’s a lot on offer at Flockhill.

Fortunately, the lodge rate includes the services of a private chef, to make the most of a well-stocked pantry of local ingredients.

Craig Martin of Native Kitchen works closely with Flockhill providing catering. The Rotorua-born chef, previously resident at Annandale resort on Banks Peninsula, is a long-time friend of lodge managers Andrew and Sandra Cullen.

Turning up at the kitchen, he brings a selection of foods that excite him the most. These include cuts of Canterbury Black Origin wagyu beef, wasabi leaves and heirloom tomatoes from his garden and homemade crispy chilli oil.

Almost as spectacular is what the food is plated up on. Tableware by local ceramicist Renate Galetzka is full of polished character, containing schist and inclusions from the banks of Lake Pearson. It doesn’t get more locally sourced than that.

'That view': The $15,000pn Flockhill Homestead is built around the views of Sugarloaf and Lake Pearson. Photo / Thomas Bywater
'That view': The $15,000pn Flockhill Homestead is built around the views of Sugarloaf and Lake Pearson. Photo / Thomas Bywater

Facilities: At the edge of the terrace and outdoor area are a swimming pool and a spa pool, pressed up against the view as close as you can get.

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Between the two wings is a large living area with a fireplace and dining table for 12. It would be an excellent place for entertaining, though perhaps the extra seats are because a dining table any smaller would be swamped.

There is also a media room with an LP turntable that is connected to a luxuriously loud sound system and a well-curated library of records. With nobody to bother but a few thousand distant sheep, it’s worth a peruse.

Also worth browsing is the walk-in wine cellar and wall-length drinks cabinet by the drawing room. It’s stocked with sake and Pegasus Bay semillon and everything in between.

There’s also a hangar full of paddleboards, caving equipment and a fleet of mountain bikes - electric and conventional.

Of course, you don’t come to a 14,000-hectare sheep station to spend all your time in the spa pool.

Take a tour around the 14,000-hectare estate in a Flockhill Landcruiser. Photo / Thomas Bywater
Take a tour around the 14,000-hectare estate in a Flockhill Landcruiser. Photo / Thomas Bywater

In the neighbourhood: Stretching from the main road to the West Coast to the Waimakariri River there’s a lot just on the station. The rails of the Tranz Alpine run through the far end of the property, and some zen-like fly fishing on the Broken River and Winding Creek. There are also caving streams and at least two waterfalls to go find. Going for an early-morning wash under the Rata Falls has become a tradition for more adventurous guests.

The sublime Karst limestone formations of Castle Hill are 20 minutes up the road. Although the formations on Flockhill are almost as spectacular as the popular stop on the way to the West Coast. It’s here that parts of the Narnia films were made. There’s a walking route with a view out to “Aslan Rock”, as the estate now calls it.

You can take in the 20km 4x4 route around Broken Hill in one of the lodge’s 70 Series Toyota Landcruisers or e-bikes.

At the site of the old backpackers, which many Cantabrians remember Flockhill for, it remains a bit of a construction site. The old accommodation huts have been moved to staff quarters. In their place is now a large steel frame for what will be a restaurant and kitchens. There are big visions for the site with 14 smaller chalets and a restaurant offering, which lodge manager’s son Taylor Cullen is overseeing. The head chef for Chiswick Woollahra in Sydney is hoping to open with up to 40 seats as soon as next year.

The recognisable Karst limestone formations of Castle Hill. Photo / Thomas Bywater
The recognisable Karst limestone formations of Castle Hill. Photo / Thomas Bywater

Accessibility: The lodge does not list comprehensive information about Flockhill’s suitability for travellers with accessibility needs, however, they say the lodge has disabled parking and a wheelchair-accessible entrance and one of the lodge’s four bedrooms is wheelchair-friendly with an accessible bathroom.

Sustainability: Flockhill has an ambitious 10-year conservation plan for the station. Targeting wilding pines and increasing biodiversity, there has been a particular focus on the creek wetland. The station has been consulting with Te Rūnaka o Ngai Tahu, for whom the high country is an important cultural area.

Flockhill's stone and poured concrete shapes from architects Warren & Mahoney. Photo / Thomas Bywater
Flockhill's stone and poured concrete shapes from architects Warren & Mahoney. Photo / Thomas Bywater

Price: Low-season rates from $9200+GST per night, June 1 to September 30. High season from $15,525+GST per night, December 1 to March 31.

Contact: flockhillnz.com

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