Five lesser-known Cycladic islands where stunning sunsets and serene beaches await, far from the bustling crowds. Photo / Getty Images
These Cycladic islands offer white-washed villages, crystal-clear water, boat-fresh seafood and truly dazzling sunsets – without the hectic crowds of Santorini, writes Margaret Barca
A small slither of mountainous island, Sifnos is renowned for its pottery and its cuisine.
Beyond the small port of Kamares, the rugged landscape is defined by tier upon tier of ancient olive groves, vineyards and more than 2500km of dry-stone walls. Blue-domed churches speckle the landscape, lemon trees scent the air, cardinal-red bougainvillea spills over walls and herbs flourish.
Apollonia, the capital, sprawls over three hills, its heart a jumble of winding lanes, stone stairs and Cubist houses. Stylish designer shops, little restaurants and bars fill the fashionable “To Steno” walk.
Nearby, in Artemonas, grand private villas with flowering gardens, local bakeries, cafes and pottery workshops can be found.
Sifnos beaches are golden sand with water so startlingly clear you can see your shadow. Platys Gialos with deck chairs, bars and tavernas is very popular, but there are many quiet beaches and coves.
A fascinating network of paved walks and hiking trails criss-cross the island.
Revithia (rich chickpea stew), mastelo (slow-baked goat or lamb), and kaparosalata (wild caper salad) are terrific traditional foods, while inventive modern cuisine taps the ocean’s bounty and fine local produce.
Don’t miss: The Venetian citadel of Kastro, a clifftop stronghold built against pirates, has ancient Roman remnants and peerless ocean views. Try Loggia Wine Bar or Stiadi restaurant.
READ MORE: Greece in every season: A top destination to visit all year round
Folegandros is steep, barren and magnificent. At its heart, Chora – the main town – perches high on a hill, clinging to the edge of a cliff. White-washed houses, their doors and shutters in myriad hues of blue, line laneways that open into small squares with shade trees and cascading bougainvillea.
Tiny shops and boutiques face Kontarini Square, where cafes set out Van Gogh–style raffia chairs and bright timber tables. By day the village is tranquil – locals play a game of chess, share a leisurely coffee. But at night, lights twinkle, the squares fill and there’s a heady aroma of grilled seafood.
Above Chora, clinging to a craggy outcrop and reached by a dramatic zigzag pathway, stands the whitewashed Church of Panagia. Follow the steep path late afternoon for sweeping views of the deep-blue Aegean and sunsets of burnished gold.
For authentic village life, visit the hamlet of Ano Meria, a short drive from Chora, past crops, beehives, donkeys and farmers herding goats.
Beaches are lovely but many are only reached by sea or a long walk.
Don’t miss: Take a day cruise from the port, Karavostasi and dive off your boat into crystal-clear water, pull into small coves, and picnic on sandy beaches shaded by tamarisk trees.
In the mornings – during the season – Adamas, Milos’s main port, is busy. Tourists crowd around with their swimming gear, buying picnic fare at the bakeries (crusty seed bread, just-baked spanakopita pies) waiting to catch buses to beaches, or to board cruises to snorkel and dive around the island.
The beaches are magic. They are curves or pockets of golden sand, or startling moonscapes of pale volcanic rock, like Sarakiniko beach, brilliant against the iridescent turquoise and peacock shades of the Aegean.
Late in the day, small boats and the occasional luxury yacht pull into the marina, while harbourside seafood restaurants and bars spring to life, but it’s low-key and friendly.
Plaka, the hilltop capital, is a web of stone-paved alleys, dazzling white houses, cafes and churches. It’s a steep, steep climb to the old Kastro fort, but worth it for fiery sunsets over the bay.
Pollonia, a fishermen’s village with rustic waterfront cafes, Trypiti with its classic windmills and rural Zefyria are other villages to explore.
History abounds. The famous Venus de Milo, now in the Louvre, was found here. There are early Christian catacombs, and Mining, Folklore, Archaeological and other museums.
Don’t miss: Many syrmata, traditional fishermen’s houses built into the rock right on the water’s edge, have been converted into idyllic holiday rentals.
visitgreece.gr/islands/cyclades/milos
Ermoupoli, the elegant capital of Syros, boasts grand public buildings, Venetian architecture, an imposing civic square, magnificent churches and wealthy merchants’ houses, handsomely restored in gelato colours.
Behind the port’s broad boardwalk with its bustling cafes, bars and ships’ ticket offices, are cobblestone and marble-paved streets, a trove of stylish boutiques and restaurants beneath leafy pergolas. In the evenings there’s cool jazz at Megaron with its awning-shaded terrace. Nearby, Port Galleria del Cocktail caters to a younger, hip crowd. Old-school deli Prekas is stocked high with traditional Greek produce (thyme honey, local cheeses, nougat).
In the well-to-do Vaporia district, stop at the Vaporia Bar, shaded by olive trees for wine with dreamy sea views. Down below, swimmers sunbake and dive off concrete swimming platforms into the crystal-clear ocean.
Megas Gialos is a resort area and closest beach to Ermoupoli. At Kini Bay, on Syros’ western side, cafes and tavernas curve around the waterfront. Sunsets here are heavenly. Galissas Beach has tamarisk trees and rustic beach bars.
Don’t miss: Above Ermoupoli (it’s a steep climb, or take a minibus), the ancient village of Ano Syros – a maze of winding alleyways, tiny houses in faded hues and little bars – offers panoramic views.
Tinos lies a mere 30-minute ferry ride from Mykonos but a world away. It’s a pilgimage destination for Greeks so there’s plenty of authentic food.
The old port is interesting (the new port less so) but it’s what lies beyond that makes Tinos so special.
The meltemi or summer winds here are fierce, and the island is largely dry and rugged, but citrus-yellow broom and wild fennel wave along the narrow winding roads. There are lush patches of green and clusters of flowering oleander.
Dozens of tiny, traditional villages (many hidden away), 750 churches and hundreds of centuries-old stone dovecotes dot the landscape. Ocean views are epic.
From Arnardos, the highest village, views stretch on forever, the indigo blue sea occasionally washing to nothing as misty clouds roll in. Don’t miss Ballis, a wine cellar in an ancient stone labyrinth.
At Dyo Choria cafes spread beneath huge shade trees. For lunch, you can feast on dark, deliciously chewy bread, Greek salad with salty capers, soft mizithra cheese and icy Mythos beer.
Lovely Kardiani village is tucked into a mountainside, amid a canopy of plane trees and wild olives, while the fishing village of Panorma is known for family seafood restaurants and tavernas.
Don’t miss: Tinos is famed for its marble. Pyrgos, “the marble village” is a chic outpost of dazzling white houses, magenta bougainvillea, sun-dappled cafes, a smattering of smart shops and marble workshops.
greeka.com/cyclades/tinos/about
GETTING THERE
Qatar Airways, Air China and Emirates fly from Auckland to Athens International Airport with one stopover. The most popular way to get from Athens to the Greek islands is by ferry.
DETAILS
From skipping the queues to planning your parade spot, here's all you need to know.