It is an area set between forests and sea. Photo / Amanoi
From weaving villages to sacred blessings, five immersive encounters offer a rare glimpse into Vietnam’s living Cham culture, writes Ankita Mahabir.
A five-hour drive outside Saigon or about 1.5 hours from Nha Trang Airport, within the Nui Chua National Park lies Amanoi. Nestled between the forested hills and the sea, this retreat blends comfort with connection, offering a true sense of place and people, particularly the Cham people.
An ethnic community, the Cham people are divided into three spiritual paths: Cham Balamon, Cham Bani and Cham Islam, each with unique rituals, festivals and customs.
Descendants of the once-mighty Champa kingdom, they continue to practise centuries-old crafts, rituals and spiritual philosophies; not as performances for visitors, but as living traditions that shape daily life.
Collaborating closely with Cham leaders, artisans and culturists, Amanoi curates rare and intimate experiences that feel more like an introduction than an itinerary. During our stay, we stepped beyond the usual circuits and into five immersive experiences.
Tucked away in a modest building in Phan Rang–Tháp Chàm, the Cham Museum might not boast size but it brims with pride. Under the guidance of Diễm, a knowledgeable local Cham Bani woman, we explored sandstone sculptures, portraits and rare artefacts painstakingly preserved.
What made this visit special wasn’t just the collection, but Diễm herself and the cultural context she offered: the layered symbology, the meaning behind the rituals and how Cham identity continues to evolve today in modern Vietnam.
Those seeking a deeper understanding of Cham culture will find this museum to be a great starting point.
Cham weaving isn’t just decorative, it’s symbolic. In My Nghiep Village, sitting beside Cham weavers, I watched as age-old geometric motifs emerged thread by thread. Each pattern tells a story: of harvests, ancient deities and cosmic beliefs.
At Amanoi, the connection comes full circle. These weavings are subtly integrated throughout the property. From table runners and turndown gifts to even elements of interior design. It’s a powerful integration of community into luxury.
A less than 10-minute drive from My Nghiep lies Bau Truc, one of Southeast Asia’s oldest continuously operating pottery villages. Here, instead of rotating the clay on a wheel, the Cham women move around it. Shaping terracotta entirely by hand, they circle with intent, their bodies becoming part of the shaping process. No two pots are the same.
I also attempted to shape a pot. Sadly, mine turned out to be far from artistic, much to the amused dismay of the gracious woman beside me, who had been moulding clay for over 60 years.
Rising dramatically against the blue sky, the Po Klong Garai Temple complex is among the best-preserved Cham monuments. Built in the 13th century to honour King Po Klong Garai, the red sandstone towers, linga-yoni shrines, and carved reliefs give glimpses of a time when the Champa Kingdom thrived.
That said, ceremonies are still held here during Cham festivals like Kate, drawing worshippers in traditional dress, bearing offerings, and ancestral prayers.
While you can visit the above locations independently, we explored them with the help of Amanoi guide, Michael, as part of its “Kingdom of Cham” tour, which ended with a delicious lunch at a local gem we’d have never discovered alone.
One of the most profound moments of our journey was a private ceremony held in a sacred spot on Amanoi’s grounds, not marked on any map. Here, we met Master Ða, a Cham Bani Master, who led an ancestral blessing rarely seen outside Cham festivals.
To the haunting tones of sacred instruments, his voice rose in song, a delicate weave of animist, Hindu, and Islamic influences. The experience was not performative but deeply reverent, an invitation, however brief, into a world few outsiders ever glimpse.
The evening culminated in a six-course meal under the stars, inspired by Cham cuisine, from turmeric-laced curries and tamarind leaf soup to handcrafted chocolates etched with traditional motifs.
Beyond the Cham encounters, the region offers other unique sights. Travellers can explore the nearby fishing village of Vinh Hy, wander through the Ninh Thuan Stone Park or go trekking in Nui Chua National Park. Guests at Amanoi can also do a rewarding climb to Goga Peak, which we did with our toddler quite easily (and in flip flops, mind you – not recommend).
To experience the Cham community through Amanoi is to be reminded that luxury is not always opulence. Sometimes, it’s about access. Access to silence. To ceremony. To connection. These were not “activities” checked off a list but meaningful encounters with a people whose culture continues to shape the soul of southern Vietnam – quietly, beautifully, enduringly.