Fiji: Time to indulge in a Nanuya Lailai massage

A walk across Nanuya Lailai offers endless blue water views. Photo / Sue Baxalle

On a cruise around Fiji's islands Sue Baxalle surrenders to a restorative pleasure of the flesh and befriends colourful characters.

I'm booked in for a beach massage at 11.30 and it's nearly that now. But first there's coconut husking and basket weaving demonstrations to watch and a session of snorkelling with the fish as they are being fed. I fear I won't have enough time.

But wait. We're on Fiji time here at Nanuya Lailai. Masseuse Akanasi assures me I can do all of these things and come for the massage afterwards.

Cruise director Miri explains that the coconut is considered the tree of life and very little of this palm is wasted. There is the coconut's water and flesh for nourishment, of course; the husk, which produces fibres for all sorts of household implements from food strainers to body scrubs; and the leaves of the palm are used for brooms, garden rakes and matting, as well as being woven into decorations.

She and Captain Jitoko deftly chop into a supply of green coconuts and hand them out with straws for us to drink the refreshing water.

Jitoko dons the mantle of basket weaver, demonstrating the process with amazing speed.

It's then fish-feeding time and we suit up in masks, snorkels and fins and swim out to join the crew, who have taken the tender out with the non-swimmers, to cast morsels of bread to the reef fish. They are quick to respond and we find ourselves surrounded by hundreds of fish - mostly greedy zebra fish, along with many other colourful varieties.

Fiji's balmy waters are reportedly home to more than 1200 varieties of reef fish and more than 300 types of coral for them to feed in. They were definitely not shy around us and keen on the delights dropping overboard from the tender.

Fiji Princess captain Jitoko demonstrates the art of basket weaving. Photo / Sue Baxalle

The outing was part of Blue Lagoon Cruises' tour of the Yasawa Islands on the Fiji Princess. Three options are offered by the company, the full seven-night tour, a three-night trip taking in the Mamanuca Islands to the south or - our trip - the four-night section of her weekly tour, with the highlight an overnight sojourn tied up to a coconut palm off the company's private beach on Nanuya Lailai.

I return to the beach and the spa area where Akanasi is ready for me. She has worked as a masseuse and beauty therapist for Senikai Spas for seven years. Staff of the operation take turns on the Fiji Princess, the company contracted to Blue Lagoon Cruises.

Akanasi says she loves working on the ship and in her down time helps the crew with other duties, including the evening entertainment.

A beachside massage relaxes tense muscles. Photo / Supplied

Not all of our trip was lazing around on the beach or chasing fish around the reef. After breakfast on day three, for example, we joined guide Colin for a walk across the hill to the other side of Nanuya Lailai.

It was an easy walk, with coconut palms cut to serve as bridges across streams here and there. Colin stopped often to explain the uses of various plants - medicinal and domestic - before we reached our destination, Lo's Tea Shop.

At the tea shop - surely one of the most remote cafes in the Pacific, you can eat at the benches indoors or out, or take your fare on to the beach picnic-style.

Lo offers a comprehensive range of cakes and hot and cold refreshments along with beer, rum and cigarettes, and has a selection of shell jewellery, sarongs and other souvenir items for sale. Grandma's Shell Market, on a mat on the ground nearby, offers a similar range.

Though Lo was not in the tea house on the morning of our visit, I chatted with her father, 77-year-old Tevita, who was looking after his 22-month-old great-granddaughter while her mum (Lo's daughter) served customers. As is the tradition in the Yasawas, Lo's is truly a family affair.

The evening before, after a delicious lovo (the Fijian style of hangi) we had been serenaded by local Yasawan villagers and encouraged to take part in the traditional dancing.

Traditional dancing is vital and energetic and visitors are invited to join in. Photo / Sue Baxalle

Back on the beach, Akanasi's massage was delicious and though she did have some other clients during the day, I felt it was a shame not more passengers took advantage of the opportunity.

I guess they didn't have enough time.

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Getting there: Air New Zealand and Fiji Airways depart daily ex Auckland to Nadi.

The writer visited the Yasawa Islands as a guest of Blue Lagoon Cruises.