Fiji holidays: Sailing on Sabre and Denarau's best resorts

Fiji was the last place I expected to be eating authentic Lebanese food but I guess a lot has changed since we've been away. The sun had set on a steamy March day, turning the horizon as pink as the sunburnt Australian holidaymakers cooled off in the lagoon-style pool. And as tiny frogs jumped across our path, we made our way to Byblos, one of six restaurants at Radisson Blu Denarau Island for an unexpectedly incredible meal.

I remember a lot about pre-pandemic holidays in Fiji, but food wasn't usually the thing I would first write home about. But after heading there last month, I can now add "fantastic foodie destination" to the list of reasons to recommend you go there too.

Byblos was born during the pandemic, while borders were closed and Fiji's population – more than 150,000 of whom work in tourism – waited patiently for international visitors to return. Rather than putting the hotel in mothballs and the staff on furlough, the Radisson Blu was one of only a few hotels in Fiji that kept operating. The resort got behind a "Love your locals" campaign, encouraging Fiji residents to dine out at restaurants, stay at hotels and support their local economy.

Byblos is a Lebanese restaurant at Fiji's Radisson Blu Denarau Island. Photo / Supplied

Byblos, which opened in February 2021, gave locals even more reason to get out and about. In an interview with the Fiji Sun, Charles Homsy, the French Lebanese General Manager of the Radisson Blu, said the move to open Byblos reflected the resort's "continuous search for diversification, innovation and creativity, especially during uncertain and difficult times". Homsy has managed resorts around the world, and has prior experience of working under exceptional circumstances – he was GM of the Warwick Babylon in Baghdad, Iraq, and was there when it was bombed by Islamic State militants in 2015.

Two years later, he moved to Fiji, first working at the Warwick there, before going to the Radisson, bringing with him Lebanese chef Abbass Fawaz. Together they launched Byblos – now one of the country's must-eat establishments.

Under festoon lights, at open-air tables next to the ocean, our table groaned under the weight of multiple shared plates of food. Hummus, baba ganoush, fattoush, falafel, tabbouleh, grilled meats, puffy flat breads, fragrant rice and more, all washed down with a delicious Lebanese blanc de blanc wine . . . it was a fantastic way to begin five days of getting reacquainted with this fabulous destination.

Radisson Blu Denarau Island has six restaurants to choose from. Photo / Supplied

But what do you need to know about travelling to Fiji again, now international travel is a bit more complicated than before? Well, you'll be pleased to know everything was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I needed a pre-departure test before travel (PCR 48 hours before or supervised RAT 24 hours before). I went to Rako Science in Newmarket, Auckland for my PCR; others in my travelling party got a supervised RAT at their pharmacy (not all pharmacies offer this service, so check well in advance to find one in your area that does).

Some other requirements have loosened since my trip. Last week, Fiji removed the requirement for travellers to have a minimum three-night booking at a Care Fiji Commitment-certified resort. So now you're able to stay where you like for as long – or short – as you like. However, it's worth noting that many of the resorts and hotels in Fiji remain part of the CFC – meaning they meet a World Health Organisation-approved standard of best-practice health and safety measures, all staff are double vaccinated, and the business has a dedicated Wellness Ambassador responsible for keeping everybody safe. It means you can feel reassured that your safety is a top priority.

Now, instead of the minimum three-night booking, you'll need to pre-book a RAT at a registered facility to be taken within 48-72 hours of your arrival in Fiji. You'll need to show confirmation of that booking at airport check-in. You'll also need to show proof of travel insurance with Covid cover.

Those new processes aside, as soon as I arrived at the Radisson, I was struck by just how normal things felt. I soon fell into the natural rhythm of a Pacific Island holiday - feeling relaxed and carefree. It helped that all the tourism operators and hospitality workers I met were beaming with happiness, delighted to be back in business after two years of closures and economic uncertainty. The "Bula spirit" is still thriving.

The portions are hearty at Nadi's Kanu Gastropub by Lance Seeto, and you may end up taking a doggy bag away with you. Photo / Kanu

As well as Byblos, the Radisson Blu has five other dining options around the resort so even if you're there for a few days, you won't get bored. But for a special night out, how about heading into Nadi for a meal at Kanu Gastropub, the restaurant of Fijian-based Australian celebrity chef Lance Seeto. The menu is a mix of Fijian-influenced Asian flavours and the portions are hearty. If you can walk away having finished everything on your plate, I salute you. More likely, you will head back to your resort with a doggy bag of leftovers to enjoy for lunch the following day.

Back in Denarau, I can also recommend the Sofitel Resort for a luxurious, comfortable stay. It's great for families, with a huge pool, beach access, activities, and excellent dining options, but it also has a dedicated adults only area called Waitui Beach Club, with its own lounge, pool and bar available only to the grown-ups.

The sense of peace starts right from the moment you step out of your transfer bus or car. You'll be whisked away by golf cart to a private check-in area by the Waitui Beach Club pool, where a glass of champagne will arrive as if by magic. Spend time by the pool during the day and you'll enjoy complimentary refreshments, as well as cocktails and canapes every night at sunset.

Waitui Beach Club is an adults-only haven at Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa in Denarau. Photo / Supplied

Fans of Cordis Auckland's Eight Restaurant will love the Sofitel's Bazaar – it too has multiple kitchens dedicated to different international cuisines, so your buffet dinner can start with sushi, move on to Italian, Chinese, and Indian, then finish with pastries, icecream, or cheese plates. Arrive hungry, and know that no one is judging you, no matter how many times you go back for more.

Then, if you've got energy to spare, you only need walk up one flight of stairs to the resort's in-house nightclub Republik, where you can dance off the calories ... or sip on a digestif before going to bed.

It might be hard to tear yourself away from your resort but a day trip with South Sea Sailing is totally worth the (minimal) effort. Sabre is a 23m Ocean Voyager catamaran, custom-built for day trips, and launched in December. She's an absolute beauty, with huge shaded deck space, booth-seating and day beds, plus bean bags at the bow for lounging in the sun and enjoying the refreshing ocean breeze.

The day at sea incorporates sailing, songs, cocktails, morning and afternoon tea, a barbecue lunch, snorkelling, stand-up paddleboarding, and, the most fun option, whizzing down the yacht's in-built slide straight into the warm, tropical waters.

Fiji's South Sea Sailing launched its new Ocean Voyager catamaran Sabre in December, custom-built for day-trips. Photo / Supplied

We moored just off Malololailai Island in the Mamanucas, where at low-tide a sand-bar reveals itself in the middle of the ocean, like a reverse oasis. The crew set up colourful deckchairs so we could relax on dry land for a little while before swimming back to the boat. But we were most content to enjoy the shallows, drinking icy cans of Fiji Gold, enthusing over how glad we are that international travel has returned.

The weather packed in as we sailed back to Denarau, with downpours of warm tropical rain and thunderous skies. There was no dampening our spirits though. The world is open again and we were delighted to be back in it.

FIJI DETAILS

Fiji Airways is currently operating four flights a week from Auckland, with daily flights scheduled to launch from April 14. fijiairways.com

For more things to see and do when you get there, see fiji.travel