Fiji fights back

By LOUISA CLEAVE

You know tourism is down when the birds outnumber the people in a Fijian hotel's swimming pool.

The half dozen mynas having an afternoon splash at the Sheraton Fiji Resort brought the number of swimmers to nine last week. But their monopoly on the oversized birdbath won't last long.

A multi-million-dollar advertising campaign, with cut-price airfares and accommodation, aims to bring tourists flocking back to Fiji after the May coup threw the islands' tourism into turmoil.

Hundreds of dollars have been slashed off the normal high-season airfares and major hotels and resorts - operating at 20 to 30 per cent occupancy instead of the usual 90 to 100 per cent expected at this time of year - have dropped prices by up to 40 per cent.

Air Pacific and Air New Zealand are offering $499 return fares while the Flight Centre has a $479 deal, all on a minimum five-night stay or maximum 21 days. Flight Centre reported 750 bookings in the first day and a half, with the school-holiday period filling fast.

The Fiji Visitor Bureau says most major resorts and hotels were also offering $100 of food and drink during five-day stays.

Penny Henderson, New Zealand regional director of the Fiji Visitors Bureau, said the cut-price holiday packages were "going like hot cakes" and flights during the school holiday would fill fast and should be booked early.

"We have been assured by both [Air New Zealand and Air Pacific] that availability is certainly good and we're doing our best to monitor that."

Henderson said it was hoped the special would generate 10,000 visitors to Fiji over three months, which would be 50 per cent down on last year.

Our Foreign Affairs Ministry has downgraded its travel advisory to Fiji, declaring western Viti Levu including Nadi, the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands and the Coral Coast safe destinations. However, tourists should maintain a high level of caution and security awareness, the ministry says.

"The security situation remains potentially more volatile in Suva, where a military curfew remains in effect, in the Central Division of Viti Levu (that is, eastern side of Viti Levu), and on the island of Vanua Levu," says the advisory.

Fiji's tourist operators have combined forces and resources to work together under the umbrella of the Tourism Action Group (TAG) to salvage what remains of the 2000 season.

With the recovery mission under way, no one can predict how long it will take tourists to return to the white sandy shores bordering the island resorts and mainland hotels.

What is known, is that the annual number of 72,000 Kiwis who holiday in Fiji is likely to drop by around 35,000, over the next 12 months. Before the coup, 1200 tourists were arriving in Fiji daily. That fell to around 400 during the crisis.

Auckland flight attendant Stuart Roscoe, his wife and their two children were part of the dwindling number of tourists who were not put off travelling during the civil unrest. They spent a week at Treasure Island during the July school holidays, despite advice from the Government not to travel to Fiji.

"We went through an industry travel agency, and they had had a group of agents up there the week before and reported the islands that most tourists go to were operating quite well and the stories of food shortage and security problems were inflated," said Roscoe.

The family found it was business as usual at Treasure Island, which was about 70 per cent full, dropping to about 30 per cent by the time they left. Neighbouring Beachcomber was running at 50 per cent occupancy.

"We'd definitely go back. I found it to be what I've always thought of it, the perfect Kiwi holiday destination.

"I think the thing that attracts Kiwis is the fact that it's only three hours, you don't waste a whole day getting there, and there's no time change.

"They have handled New Zealanders and Australians for that long, they know what we like. The food is good and the quality of the resorts is excellent and the beaches are really nice with no nasties."

At Nadi airport, departing travellers still have their luggage scanned by x-ray before checking in, a reminder of the on-going security further enforced by the soldiers with assault rifles guarding the gates to the airport.

But the most obvious post-coup difference is the absence of people.

At the Sheraton on Denarau Island, 20 minutes from Nadi airport, at this time of the year holidaymakers would normally have to make an early start to beat fellow guests to a pool-side lounger.

For now, sunbathers can take their pick of chairs and lazily follow the sun around the pool - or take refuge in the shade.

On the beach-front, sea kayaks, small catamaran yachts and windsurfers are lined up, waiting for takers.

The golf course is quiet, and strolling along the deserted shoreline makes you think of scenes from Survivor.

Neighbouring sister resort, the Sheraton Royal Denarau, sits empty, undergoing maintenance until tourists start to return.

Staff from the two luxury resorts have shared employment during the exodus, when workers were encouraged to take leave and had their hours slashed from 48 a week to 24.

The reduced hours and reduced incomes have hurt families. Shops report an 80 to 90 per cent drop in profits. Now the friendly Fijian and Indo-Fijian shopkeepers, with their fully stocked shelves of souvenirs and goods such as perfume, jewellery and clothing, look forward to welcoming back New Zealand visitors.

Early takers of packages should benefit from the attention of waiters.

In the weekend before the Fiji sale was announced, visitors from America, Australia, New Zealand and Asia could hardly believe the tranquillity of having a holiday resort almost to themselves.

Despite low numbers, evening entertainment was in full force. The lobby trio continued their welcoming songs on guitar and ukulele as people trickled in.

According to local managers, Americans have continued to travel to Fiji, although the occupation of Turtle Island and subsequent coverage on CNN caused numbers to drop.

Japanese tourists had all but stopped travel to Fiji and Air Pacific withdrew flights into the country. These have now resumed.

New Zealanders and Australians continue to trickle through.

An island-hopping ferry dropped off and collected only a few people at places such as Beachcomber, Treasure Island, Malolo Island and the exclusive Castaway Island.

Visitors from New York and Los Angeles said they had no concerns about travelling to Fiji since the unrest, with one couple on a return visit saying they preferred the islands and its people to the closer-to-home Caribbean.

New Zealanders on holiday were similarly undeterred by the recent lawlessness and violence which had occurred in other parts of the country. Sitting under a bright blue sky with temperatures in the high 20s, Aucklander Ian McDonald said the coup was the last thing on his mind. "It's so relaxing."