As we trundle along in our golf cart to check in at the adults-only Lomani Island Resort, we pass a family of four on bikes, stopped on the side of the road. The dad looks longingly in the direction we're headingand asks if we want to trade places.
Cue laughter all around, but no, we don't.
Lomani Island Resort, Fiji. Photo / Supplied
Fiji has something for everyone, but there is a growing trend for resorts catering to couples, with no kids allowed.
At Lomani, adjacent to the family-friendly Plantation Island Resort on Malololailai Island in the Mamanucas, we instantly feel Fiji working its magic.
The resort's villas have their own private plunge pools that overlook a garden hiding a secret: at the end of the manicured lawn, just past the swaying fronds of a palm tree lies the entrance to a long, golden sandy beach.
Our stay is brief and, tempting though it is to lie by the pool with a cocktail and a book, we borrow a couple of bikes and cycle through the neighbouring resort, along the airfield and out towards Musket Cove. The bikes have no gears (or conventional brakes) and the hill over to Musket Cove's coconut plantation proves too much of a challenge in the March humidity.
It's a good excuse to stop for a cold drink and a bite to eat at the hotel island bar; if you visit in the evening you can have a barbecue dinner, lit by tiki torches, beside the water.
Later, we head to Lomani's beach and sink our feet into the soft, warm sand, watching as a lightning storm plays out across the lush mountain tops.
Lomani Island Resort, Fiji. Photo / Supplied
For couples who really want to get away from it all and feel truly spoilt, across the waters lies a true gem. Tropica Island Resort is nestled into a hillside, accessible only by boat or seaplane, and where we are welcomed like long-lost family.
The bures here are private and peaceful, with infinity pools looking out to the ocean and decks with hammocks or porch swings.
Early-morning yoga sessions look out over the most spectacular view and the onsite spa offers an extensive range of facials, massages and beauty treatments.
If relaxing by the glorious pool gets a bit too much, there are lots of activities available, from cultural talks to basket-weaving and coconut-husking lessons.
Lomani Island Resort, Fiji. Photo / Supplied
We take a short boat ride to the spectacular diving spot of Castaway Wall. After crossing a reef break our boat stops in the middle of the open ocean. The reef plunges away into a vertical drop; one moment we're swimming lazily above vibrant purple and pink coral, allowing the current to gently nudge us along, the next we're above a vast expanse of nothingness. More experienced divers will want to explore deeper. For me, nothing is more relaxing than hanging out with shoals of brightly coloured fish.
If you're staying in Denarau, there are still options for a tropical island escape. Take a day trip from the port to Malamala Beach Club — there's no overnight accommodation here but the ticket includes return ferry rides and full access to the island and the water sports on offer.
There are plenty of chill-out zones, private cabanas (complete with butler service) and an impressive infinity pool. Food and drink is charged to a tab and settled when you leave the island.
There is some amazing cuisine. Try the delicious cured fish dish kokoda and one of the seven signature cocktails inspired by local ingredients.
It doesn't take long to kayak around the island (or walk if you fancy indulging your Castaway fantasies). Snorkelling a few metres off the white sand beach is like stepping into another world, with plenty of reef fish and the odd turtle swimming by gracefully.
It's not hard to see why some visitors try to miss the return ferry.
As we take off in our seaplane after six days of pure relaxation, the beauty of Fiji is laid before us in all its glory. A huge smile spreads across my face. Our holiday has served to spin us in a relaxing cocoon, cutting us off from the cares of the outside world.
CHECKLIST
GETTING THERE Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Nadi, with one-way Seat fares from $199, on sale until March 20.
