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Home / Travel

Figueres: Keeping it surreal in Spain

By P.K. Stowers
NZ Herald·
15 Oct, 2014 11:00 PM5 mins to read

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The Gala Dali Castle in Pubol, Catalonia. Photo / P.K. Stowers

The Gala Dali Castle in Pubol, Catalonia. Photo / P.K. Stowers

P.K. Stowers visits Dali's birthplace, home to an enormous range of his art.

In the heart of Catalonia, the town of Figueres is famous as the birthplace of 20th-century eccentric artist Salvador Dali. It features the Dali Museum, built in the early 1970s to resemble the old theatre that stood there before it burned down during the Spanish Civil War.

One of Dali's first exhibitions was at the theatre, and the artist suggested having a museum there to feature his private collection. He supervised its construction and opening in 1974.

Today the museum has grown to take over numerous adjacent buildings and contains the largest collection of his work.

His playful and colourful creations have entranced many over the years, so while on a rest day from a hiking trip on the nearby Costa Brava, myself and three colleagues decided to have a "Day of Dali" and visit the museum and the house of his wife and muse, Gala Dali.

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Over the years the Figueres museum has morphed into something every bit as outrageous and colourful as anything the artist produced over his very productive lifespan.

Gold-painted statues line the interior auditorium walls, one massive exterior wall resembles a castle wall made with red Lego bricks and giant eggs where the battlements would be, a giant geodesic dome crowns the theatre section and the artist himself was buried in a tomb built under the "stage".

If you are familiar only with some of Dali's well-known surrealist paintings (melting clocks, animals on stilts) the volume and different styles of his work on show here will astound you.

From his early teenage works - where he dabbles in cubism and other styles of the early 20th century, to his prints, ink sketches, sculptures and other more absurdist creations, it is clear that Dali liked to be constantly creating and evolving.

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There didn't seem to be any artistic medium that he was not interested in pursuing, and examples of all can be found here.

Photos: Exploring Dali's Catalonia

Photos / P.K. Stowers, Supplied

One of my favourite sections was the exhibition titled Dali's Jewels which displays 41 unique items of jewellery and sculpture in precious metals and gemstones that the artist designed between 1941 and 1970.

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These display the same level of whimsy, religious iconography and exquisite detail that can be seen in his painting, but on a much smaller level.

Dali only designed the pieces; the jewels were made in New York under his supervision.

More than 25 of Dali's meticulous plans are also included in the exhibition, which shows the precision and level of detail that Dali expected.

Even if you only have a small interest in 20th century art, the museum is worth a visit; although it is recommended you get there early as the crowds can built up quite quickly and if you try to get in between 11am and 3pm you will more than likely have to spend some time - even up to an hour - queuing outside.

It is also a reasonably difficult and confusing building to find your way around. Being an ex-theatre, there are a seemingly endless number of corridors and rooms to explore.

Our next destination was the Gala Dali castle in Pubol. Gala was Dali's wife and muse. She is the subject of many of his works and is said to have inspired a large number of others.

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Dali bought the castle in 1969 for her, and he went on to design much of the furniture and decor of the rooms.

His aim was to produce a quiet haven for Gala to live and work in, but towards the end of his life, Dali spent a great deal of time there himself. It was his last artistic studio before he died in 1984.

Although much smaller than the museum (allow 45 minutes to see everything here) the Pubol house still features a large number of Dali's works, including; numerous paintings, his throne room and associated statues, at least one of his cars, and a very fine garden including several large sculptures of animals on stilts.

Gala Dali died in 1982 and her tomb is in the basement.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: From New Zealand, KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines) offers 17-weekly flights with its codeshare partners Malaysia Airlines and China Southern, and 77-weekly flights with its Interline partners. To book call (09) 921 6040.

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What to do:

The Dali Museum's opening hours change with the tourist season. During peak season it opens 9am to 8pm, and off-season it opens from 9.30am to 6pm. From June 1 to September 30 it is open every day, but closes every Monday from October 1 to May 31. The last entry is 45 minutes before closing time. Depending on the season and the time of day you visit, it can also be very crowded so give yourself at least two hours to see everything.

From Figueres it's relatively easy to get to Gala Dali Castle in Pubol. It's a 20-minute train ride east, followed by a 10-minute taxi trip - and is well worth the effort.

The writer travelled to Spain courtesy of Adventure World and KLM.

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