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Home / Travel

Explore Germany’s fairy-tale castles and villages on a Rhine river cruise

By Kate Webster
NZ Herald·
3 Oct, 2023 04:30 AM5 mins to read

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The Rhine River has long been a source of inspiration for artists and poets like William Turner, Friedrich Hölderlin, and Heinrich Heine. Photo / Supplied

The Rhine River has long been a source of inspiration for artists and poets like William Turner, Friedrich Hölderlin, and Heinrich Heine. Photo / Supplied

Kate Webster takes a fairy-tale journey down Germany’s Rhine River, where castles and cathedrals rise above quaint villages, and storied waterways reveal themselves at every twist and turn.

The Rhine River in Germany evokes a sense of romance that is simply irresistible. Each bend in the river takes you further into a fairy-tale land, where picturesque castles, charming towns crowned with towering cathedrals, and imposing fortresses stand sentinel over the flowing waters from hilltop perches.

As I embarked on an eigh-day Rhine, Strasbourg, and Heidelberg cruise with Riviera Travel on board the MS George Eliot, I knew I was about to embark on a journey through one of Europe’s most charming regions.

Kate Webster embarked on an 8-day cruise journey through the Rhine, Strasbourg, and Heidelberg aboard the MS George Eliot. Photo / Supplied
Kate Webster embarked on an 8-day cruise journey through the Rhine, Strasbourg, and Heidelberg aboard the MS George Eliot. Photo / Supplied

The enchanting atmosphere of the Rhine has captured the hearts of travellers for centuries, stretching from Lake Constance to the Dutch border.

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Artists like William Turner immortalised these landscapes on canvas, and poets like Friedrich Holderlin and Heinrich Heine penned lyrical verses inspired by its beauty. By the 19th century, a visit to the Rhine region had become the highlight of the “grand tours” taken by English high society.

The Middle Rhine, winding its way between Bingen and Bonn through the Rheinish Slate Mountains, is a masterpiece of nature’s creation. Here, vine-covered slopes, knight’s castles, grand palaces, and quaint villages enchant the soul. Today, the Upper Middle Rhine Valley from Bingen to Koblenz enjoys Unesco World Heritage status.

The Rhine River is dotted with imposing fortresses and picturesque castles, many of which are perched on hilltops offering panoramic views of the river and its surrounding landscapes. Photo / Supplied
The Rhine River is dotted with imposing fortresses and picturesque castles, many of which are perched on hilltops offering panoramic views of the river and its surrounding landscapes. Photo / Supplied

It was early morning and I had opened my cabin curtains to reveal a gentle dawn mist that wrapped the river in a dreamy embrace, while birds twittered cheerfully from the verdant riverbanks. Although the floor-to-ceiling windows in my cabin served up views across to the river banks, I wanted to see the expanse of the Rhine in its entirety. So I headed up to the top deck and found myself a cosy seat for one of the highlights along the river’s bend.

The mist parted to reveal the silhouettes of castles and the ruins of heavenly towers. As the sun’s first rays pierced the veil, the river sparkled, and dew-kissed vineyards glistened like a thousand diamonds.

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Lorelei, the legendary siren who, perched on a slate rock near St. Goarshausen, lured ships to their doom with her beguiling song. This tale, invented by poet Clemens Brentano and popularised by Heinrich Heine, is both mythical and real. The Lorelei rock sits at the river’s narrowest and most treacherous point, where countless mariners met their fate in days gone by.

Today, the 132m-high Lorelei slate rock offers breathtaking panoramic views over the Rhine Valley.

While the Lorelei was described as the highlight of the cruise, I found that every day I was treated to a new highlight. From beginning in the picturesque city of Cologne, the ship cruised downstream along the Rhine’s meandering course to Strasbourg. With its timeless charm and cobblestone streets of the Unesco-listed Old Town, I marvelled at the fusion of French and German influences. The iconic Strasbourg Cathedral soared above, its intricate façade a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Exploring La Petite France, the city’s historic quarter, felt like stepping into a fairy tale, with its half-timbered houses and flower-bedecked canals.

The quaint city of Colmar, located in France's Alsace region, is characterised by charming canals and vibrant half-timbered houses. Photo / Supplied
The quaint city of Colmar, located in France's Alsace region, is characterised by charming canals and vibrant half-timbered houses. Photo / Supplied

Then there was Heidelberg, with its romantic castle perched high above the city. The Heidelberg Castle, a potent symbol of the city, beckoned from the hillside and walking through its storied halls and gardens, I felt transported back in time, imagining the scholars and poets who once roamed its courtyards. The Old Bridge, adorned with statues and offering panoramic views of the city and the Neckar River, provided an unforgettable vantage point.

Rüdesheim, nestled in the heart of the Rhine’s wine country, captivated with its vineyard-covered slopes and charming streets. A visit to Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet Museum was a delightful surprise, showcasing a mesmerising collection of historic music boxes and automated instruments. Cruising out of Rüdesheim, I sipped wine in the hot tub perched on the top deck of the MS George Eliot and toasted the sun setting over the rolling hills covered in vines.

The Middle Rhine, between Bingen and Bonn, is a masterpiece of nature's creation, featuring vine-covered slopes, knight's castles, grand palaces, and quaint villages. Photo / Supplied
The Middle Rhine, between Bingen and Bonn, is a masterpiece of nature's creation, featuring vine-covered slopes, knight's castles, grand palaces, and quaint villages. Photo / Supplied

My voyage continued with stops in Boppard, Mainz, and Koblenz, each offering its own unique blend of history, culture, and scenic beauty. Boppard’s Rhine promenade, flanked by centuries-old timbered houses, was a serene spot to savour local cuisine and watch the world drift by. In Mainz, the Gutenberg Museum celebrated the legacy of the inventor of the printing press, Johannes Gutenberg, and his pivotal role in the spread of knowledge.

In the 19th century, a visit to the Rhine region became a highlight of the "grand tours" taken by English high society. Photo / Supplied
In the 19th century, a visit to the Rhine region became a highlight of the "grand tours" taken by English high society. Photo / Supplied

Koblenz, where the Rhine and Moselle Rivers converge, was a true revelation. The monumental Deutsches Eck, or German Corner, stood proudly at the confluence, crowned by a towering equestrian statue of Emperor Wilhelm I. A cable car ride to the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress rewarded me with breathtaking views of the river valley.

And then there was Colmar, a French gem nestled in the heart of the Alsace region, where charming canals and half-timbered houses painted in pastel hues made me feel as if I had stepped back in time.

Exploring the Rhine at the slow pace of a river cruise was the perfect way to discover this beautiful region.

Details

The MS George Eliot departs from Cologne on the Rhine, Strasbourg and Heidelberg river cruise. See rivieratravel.com.au

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