I gradually realise that there’s a lot more to the island than meets the eye. For a start, there are more than 10,000 people buried under the paddock I’ve just walked over - and that’s just counting the people who’ve been here for the past couple of centuries. There is evidence that Aborigines have lived on the island for more than 40,000 years.
The island was named after the Earl of Stradbroke, father of the captain of the first British warship to enter Moreton Bay. It was a penal colony during the early 1800s, and from the mid-1800s it was a quarantine station and then a benevolent institution for the old, infirm and disabled. Hence the vast number of people buried there for such a small place.
The island split in two in 1898, when the sea broke through its narrow dune system, assisted by the detonation of the cargo of explosives and whiskey aboard the shipwreck the Cambus Wallace.
One of the most famous island residents was the late Kath Walker MBE, Aboriginal poet, actress, teacher and campaigner for Aboriginal rights. The totem of her tribe, the Noonuccal people, is Kabool the Carpet Snake - a symbol she used in her successful campaign against the building of a bridge to the mainland.
After the museum I catch a lift with Kelly to Point Lookout, where tourist accommodation lines the road. I spot a cafe called “The Stone Fish” that serves an acceptable Cuttlefish Salad. A rose flavoured lassi with ice hits the spot and I’m ready to brave the gorge walk. A kookaburra poses on a tree in front of me, willing me to take a picture, and a russet red sea eagle swoops towards the water.
Five minutes along the track I come to an enormous rocky gorge, with lime milkshake coloured frothy water swirling. There are red and white lifebuoys along the cliffs and signs warning that people have lost their lives here. I venture just far enough to see an impressive blowhole and school of dolphins in the water below and then a whale.
But for now I must leave this behind and head for South Stradbroke Island where Couran Cove Resort couldn’t be more of a contrast. From the scale model of the resort to the numerous awards on display in the plush departure lounge, I can see that nobody is going to tell me that there’s nothing to see or do here.
The resort is like a toned-down, eco version of Club Med - with more space and activities, and fortunately no sign of theme songs and cabaret. Kitted out with a pushbike and helmet, I take off along the dirt road, in search of a surf beach and a drink.
My journey takes me past tree-camouflaged cabins, a lagoon, a sports complex, and an observatory. I emerge from my bush cover to find the “Ocean Man Surf Club” restaurant perched on the dunes above the surf beach.
Discovering that the beach is closed because of high winds I head back to the pier to meet Walker’s grandson, Joshua Walker, who will take me on the Aboriginal “Alcheringa Trail”. He’s a tall, wiry man with long dark dreadlocks, a welcoming smile and lively personality.
We go past middens where his people feasted on shellfish, and bora-rings where gatherings were held. I watch Joshua and his team perform Aboriginal dances and then I, too, take part in the dance of the sea eagle. From here it’s only a quick bike ride, but culturally a world away, to the water sports beach where children on a big blue banana boat are being towed around, creating a wide, white wake.
Brightly coloured kayaks seem more my style. Once clear of the numerous mangroves I head to the swimming pools on spa island, and the lodges perched over the water like houseboats.
In the afternoon I walk to the southern end of the island with Martin, who works for the environmental department. The sounds of birds fill the bush, and the occasional wallaby comes bounding past. I just have time to see a large lace monitor (lizard) before it skitters around a tree trunk. A whip snake slithers by and hides in the forest floor.
There is still enough time for a quick massage, and dinner at the elegant main restaurant. It is busy, but not overcrowded, and the seafood is excellent.
Mt Tamborine stands like a protective giant watching the island from the mainland. It seems to me that, for now at least, the land of Kabool the Carpet Snake offers the best of both worlds - the natural rugged beauty of the north and the polished tourist mecca of the south.
Getting there: Fly Qantas or Air NZ to Brisbane. The low-season adult fare between April 28 and 3 July is $689 plus taxes. Both airlines have a special adult fare May 1 to July 3, $569 plus taxes. Conditions apply.
North Stradbroke Island: Stradbroke Bus Services run hourly between Pt Lookout, Amity Pt and Dunwich with the last service from Pt Lookout around 6pm. Ph 0061 7 3409 7151. Stradbroke Flyer Gold Cats depart from Cleveland every 90 minutes from 6.30am. Fare is $12 return, 30 minutes Ph 0061 7 3286 1964.
What to see: Beaches and gorge at Pt Lookout, Myora Springs, the museum, migrating whales, dolphins and local birds.
Things to do: Horse-riding, whale-watching, surfing, swimming, snorkelling, diving, 4WD beach tours, sandboarding, camping, fishing, cruises, boat hire, kayaking, biking, golf, dolphin feeding. Straddie Adventures, Pt Lookout offers sea kayaking trips ($A35) and sand boarding ($A25). Ph 0061 7 3409 8414
When to go: If you want to see whales, you need to go between late July and early October.
www.stradbroketouristinfo.com.au
South Stradbroke Island: Queensland Rail has a service to Nerang at $8.70 one way, ph 0061 73235 1323. However I recommend the bus or taxi. Coachtrans offers a service to Runaway Bay about every hour for A$35 and can be organised at the desk at the airport, ph 0061 7 3236 1000. Brunel Coachlines transfers can be arranged by the resort and take about 30 minutes outside rush hour. Fare is A$67 adult return, $40 adult one way. The resort provides catamaran transfers to the island from Runaway Bay. Water taxis also operate.
Where to stay: Nature Cabins in the bush, or Luxury Marine Lodges and Villas on the waterside. All have kitchen facilities and sleep up to 8. Ph 00 61 7 5597 9000.
www.couran.com
www.stradbroketouristinfo.com.au
www.couran.com
