Everyone's a winner in Bali paradise

By MONIQUE DEVEREUX

I met him in a Legian side street. Dirty Harry was persuasive and I was almost convinced to buy. I needed a watch and the Gucci looked nice - and genuine. But in the end it was too hot so I walked away empty-handed, safe in the knowledge that there was always another watch shop, another Dirty Harry, and another day in Bali to browse.

Like many Asian countries, Bali is a great place for the thrifty shopper. Markets and shopping centres all offer the opportunity to bargain. Paying the first price for an item will take half of the fun away from the seller.

But don't have too-high expectations about the quality of the goods. Most are fine, but remember the main reason you are paying a fraction of the cost is because you are buying a fraction of the quality.

There are plenty of shops to compare prices, should you not be too concerned about trekking from shop to shop in the heat. And of course you will not escape the swarms of Balinese business people who will do practically anything to get your attention and get you into their retail lair.

Like Dirty Harry - which was his real name, he explained with a straight face - the shops offer anything, from Gucci to Baby G and Mickey Mouse.

I didn't even start to barter with Harry. Once you start talking turkey it is rude to renege on what is seen as a certain sale.

Dirty Harry had to let me go, but not before extracting a promise that I would come back the next day and look at his soccer shirts.

He was out of luck though. On one of the main streets of Kuta we were accosted by Irwin from Sumatra, who had a fine selection of watches. After some hard bargaining one of my travelling companions left with a Baby G for 40,000 Rupiah - about $9.50.

Irwin, of course, insisted it was real but we had been shopping for several hours by then so had developed a healthy cynicism. But it does look like the real thing and new batteries were supplied.

A long, hot 2km trek along the main road I was able to pick up what may well have been my best buy - a David Beckham Manchester United replica shirt for 50,000 Rupiah or about $12.

Not that I'll wear it much, but I liken the situation to those Mastercard "Priceless" advertisements. The look on my fanatic Ipswich Town-supporting boyfriend's face every time I strut around with my bright red Man U shirt on really is priceless.

I was also able to pick up a nice, well-made throwover rug for around $7 - fairly useless in Bali but great for keeping me toasty warm on these cold Auckland nights.

It was not just the quality of this rug which made me realise that the Balinese goods - and services - were not all just lower quality and cheap versions for the throngs of tourists.

On our last day of enjoying the steamy 34C heat I decided to do what thousands of other tourists had done before me and have my hair braided.

The process took just an hour, and I must say it was a comfortable hour lounging in the the shade of the coconut palms, with my toes dipped in the hotel pool.

Three young Balinese women sectioned off all the hairs on my head before meshing them back together with a flurry of plaiting fingers.

Each plait, and there must be about 100, is secured by a fraction of a piece of rubber band which the women have nimbly tied into a knot, after stringing Canterbury rugby-coloured beads on to the plait.

The sensation is similar to a semi-violent head massage. The effect among my friends was rather more dramatic than I anticipated.

But for $10 you can't really go wrong. In various Auckland shops you can expect to pay up to $200 for the same treatment, yet it will take several hours longer and the poolside seating and coconut palms won't be included.

CASE NOTES

Flight Centre is offering a package to Bali including four nights' accommodation in Kuta, return airfares via Singapore with Singapore Airlines and one night's accommodation in Singapore. Prices start from $1159 a person, twin share, plus airport taxes. This hotel offer includes daily breakfast. The flight, accommodation package and hotel package are available until until July 4. Call 0800 243544 to book.

* Monique Devereux was hosted by Bali Tourism.