Church of the Assumption, Bled, Slovenia. Photo / 123F
Slovenia doesn’t sound sexy but with its gleaming emerald lakes, alpine mountains, rich history and exciting food scene, it’s a hidden beauty that should be on everyone’s European hit list, writes Sudeshna Ghosh
It has all the historical charm of Prague, complete with medieval castles, beautiful bridges and a buzzing vibe – minus the heaving tourist crowds. It has stunning natural scenery to rival Switzerland’s. And the cuisine could give Italy a run for its money.
I’m talking about Slovenia (and its capital city Ljublana) – a central European country nestled between Austria, Italy, Croatia and Hungary.
It never fails to baffle me just how this tiny nation, with its alpine valleys and forests, limestone mountain ranges, glacial lakes, rivers and Mediterranean coastline, has managed to remain a relatively under-the-radar destination for so long. Formerly part of Yugoslavia, Slovenia became an independent nation only in 1991, but its history dates back centuries. Ljulblana was a medieval settlement that went on to be an administrative centre for the Austrian empire with its strategic location between the Adriatic and Danube trade routes. Later it was occupied by Italian fascists, before becoming part of the communist bloc.
The best place to discover this storied history is in the capital and gateway city Ljubljana (the Js are silent). The cobblestoned, pedestrian-friendly city centre – like most European capitals – is awash with Baroque and Art Nouveau-style buildings dating back to the 1600s, interspersed with more modern 19th-century structures.
Today, it exudes an effortlessly trendy vibe that is sophisticated yet low-key, entirely comfortable in its own skin – much like Slovenes, a friendly and un-flamboyant people.
The Ljublanca river snakes its way through the city, numerous bridges traversing its waters from the historic Triple Bridge to the ubiquitous “lock bridge” – in Ljublana’s case, a contemporary glass structure where lovers seal their love with padlocks that have their keys thrown into the river. Many of these bridges and old town buildings can be credited to architect Joze Plecnik, who was instrumental in shaping the city’s sustainable, green-forward design.
A wander through the old town, stopping in at main Preseren Square (named after a Slovene poet), where the Town Hall, a Franciscan church and other notable palaces and monuments are sited, is a must-do. As is soaking up the vibe at one of the many riverfront cafes, restaurants and bars. Kavarna Macek, or Macek cafe, is one of Ljublana’s oldest waterfront eateries and something of a local institution – perfect for people-watching and trying local brews.
Don’t miss the colourful Central Market, in Vodnik Square, steps away from the riverfront and city centre, which runs every morning except Sundays. Join the locals shopping for food products and arts and crafts, and discover regional Slovene specialties such as prsut, a dry-cured ham, and kranjska klobasa, a traditional smoked sausage.
Easily walkable from the city centre (there’s also a funicular railway as an option) is Ljublanski Grad, or Ljublana Castle. Dating back 900 years, the castle not only offers some of the best views of the city and beyond from its vantage point, it also regularly hosts cultural events, and is home to art and history museums, as well as Michelin-starred restaurant Strelec. Housed in one of the former archer’s towers, the restaurant, led by renowned chef Igor Jagodic, reimagines traditional Slovenian cuisine in contemporary iterations.
For all its charms, however, one might argue Slovenia’s best attractions are to be found outside Ljulbjana. In fact, the restaurant that helped put Slovenia on the map, two Michelin-starred Hisa Franko, is in Kobarid in the Soca valley region, around two hours from the capital. Helmed by Ana Ros (voted world’s best female chef in 2017 by the definitive World’s 50 Best Restaurants list), the restaurant embodies how Slovenians naturally eat – putting foraged, seasonally-led, hyper-local ingredients front and centre. Locavorism has always been a way of life here, with as many as 24 different gastronomic regions within the 20,273sq km that make up the country (it’s less than half the size of Tasmania). No wonder Slovenia was named European Region of Gastronomy in 2021.
Hisa Franko may be the best known, but it’s just one of several such gourmet “inns” (hisa literally translates into house) dotted around the countryside where you come for a languorous meal, and stay for the night.
Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to work off such epicurean indulgences – Slovenia is renowned for its adventure offerings. The diverse landscape, headlined by the towering Julian Alps bordering Italy and Austria, with numerous glacial rivers – including the impossibly turquoise Soca – meandering through the alpine forests and meadows, lends itself to hiking, mountain biking, river rafting, caving and more. The country has produced several Olympic-level mountaineering athletes.
A drive or biking tour through Soca Valley’s Triglav National Park, the largest conservation area in Slovenia - stopping in at glacial lakes like Bohinj (a photo with the statue of Goldenhorn, a mythological goat, is mandatory here) and ski centre Kranjska Gora - is the best way to explore this alpine perfection.
Just a few kilometres away is Lake Bled, a popular weekend getaway for Ljubljana locals.
This glassy glacial lake in the Carniola region at the foothills of the Julian Alps is perhaps best known for its fairytale castle – Slovenia’s oldest – perched precariously at a cliff edge on an island in the middle of the lake. You can get a boat across to Bled Island to explore the castle and 15th century church nearby, or simply take in the sights with a leisurely walk around the lake exploring the little township – either way, reward yourself with a slice of Kremna Rezina, a decadent yet surprisingly light layered vanilla and custard cream cake that is synonymous with Bled, at one of the several lakefront cafes.
Happily, nowhere in Slovenia feels very far, so just a two-hour drive will bring you a completely different – but no less beautiful – landscape. Goriska Brda, Slovenia’s best-known wine region, near the country’s western border with Italy, is a vision of rolling hills carpeted with a patchwork of vineyards. Picturesque red-roofed hamlets punctuated by church spires dot the vista. Stop by one of the wine cellars, such as Klet Brda, housed in a historic castle, to sample lesser-known varietals such as rebula, as well as the orange wines this region has developed a reputation for.
From here, it’s a short hop to Slovenia’s small but mighty Adriatic coast – karst limestone cliffs giving way to beautiful beaches, historic seaside villages with impressive Venetian architecture, and biodiverse nature spots in what is known as the Slovene Riviera.
You are never too far from raw, unspoilt nature in Slovenia (it has the world’s highest concentration of plant and animal species per square kilometre in the world). And it is an inherent respect for nature in the Slovenes – whether it’s in their responsible culinary practices or the eco-friendly approach to adventure – that makes this a sustainable destination unlike any other.
The Vander Urbani resort is a sleek stylish hotel on the riverfront in Ljubljana’s old town. Part of Design Hotels, the Australian-owned boutique hotel offers 20 contemporary, chic rooms within a row of historic terrace houses, and seasonally-led menus in its restaurants. It’s the perfect place to base yourself as you start your Slovenian journey – best done as a road trip at your own speed, stopping in at local hisas and B&Bs in the countryside.
For more information, see slovenia.info
If you need a break from the slopes or don’t fancy a ski, there’s still a lot to do this.