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Home / Travel

Europe holidays: The ultimate guide to Athens

By Katie Lockhart
NZ Herald·
12 Aug, 2023 10:00 PM5 mins to read

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Athens, a metropolis older than most nations, is emerging as a vibrant cultural hot spot. Photo / Arthur Yeti; Unsplash

Athens, a metropolis older than most nations, is emerging as a vibrant cultural hot spot. Photo / Arthur Yeti; Unsplash

Athens, a metropolis older than most nations, has embarked on a transformative journey, shedding its ancient skin and emerging as a vibrant cultural hotspot, writes Katie Lockhart.

From graffiti-laden streets blossoming with hip hotels and cafes to cobblestone alleys that whisper tales of yore, this city dares you to rethink what you know about Greece’s capital.

In a city older than most countries, “new” and “exciting” may not come to mind. But lately, when it comes to Greece’s ancient capital, it’s often on travellers’ lips. In the past few years, Athens has experienced a flood of new creativity in the form of hotels, restaurants, boutiques and cafes.

Although the city streets are as graffitied as ever, it’s not hard to find something new and beautiful on every block. I spent three months in Greece, wandering the cobblestone alleys of Plaka and Monastiraki Square, asking myself in between bites of souvlaki, “Why don’t people spend more time here?” While you may be tempted to skip out to the islands immediately, don’t miss out on an underrated city. Here’s all you need to plan your trip to Athens.

In Athens, it’s not hard to find something new and beautiful on every block. Photo / Marco Montero Pisani; Unsplash
In Athens, it’s not hard to find something new and beautiful on every block. Photo / Marco Montero Pisani; Unsplash
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Stay central

In the last few years, dozens of new hotels in central Athens have cut the red ribbon and opened their doors. This includes Marriott’s funky and flashy brand Moxy with 201 rooms, a compact layout, sleek furniture, matte finishes and bright colours that add to its contemporary cool vibe. In the nearby Psirri neighbourhood, Mona Athens offers a more boutique feel with just 20 rooms, including moody velvet furniture, soaking tubs and a seriously stylish design.

Get yourself a guide

With a moniker like “the cradle of democracy”, you know you’re in for some history, thousands of years of it, in fact. And when you’re in Athens, the best place to start is at the Acropolis. This former citadel turned into one of the world’s most recognisable attractions, getting roughly 16,000 visitors a day during peak season. So, it’s important to plan accordingly. Hiring a private guide or joining a skip-the-line tour is highly recommended to add some context and storytelling behind the artefacts you’re looking at. The major plus side of working with a private guide is you can plan around the busiest hours and only see what you’re interested in, making for a much more memorable, less claustrophobic visit.

A guided tour is recommended to add context to the artefacts you’re looking at in Athens. Photo / Enric Domas; Unsplash
A guided tour is recommended to add context to the artefacts you’re looking at in Athens. Photo / Enric Domas; Unsplash

Step back in time

In a city that’s been continuously inhabited for more than 3000 years, there are often more artefacts than space to put them. Luckily for tourists, the National Gallery reopened in 2022 after eight years of construction. The museum’s four floors contain more than 20,000 pieces of Greek and European art to admire. And the Acropolis Museum, a great pairing after visiting the site itself, offers visitors more insight into life on the slopes of the Acropolis.

Erechtheion temple on the Acropolis, Athens, Greece. Photo / 123rf
Erechtheion temple on the Acropolis, Athens, Greece. Photo / 123rf

Greek eating 101

There are a lot of little quirks when it comes to eating in Greece. For one, meals don’t start earlier than 8pm. If you’re not interested in making dinner a late-night affair, prepare to eat in an empty restaurant, but hey, at least you’ll get a table. At the end of the meal, many tavernas will give guests a complimentary dessert, ranging from a small bowl of Greek yoghurt to a piece of baklava. And while it doesn’t always happen, it’s a wonderful showing of Greek hospitality or kerasma. Once it comes time to request the bill, don’t be surprised if you have to ask multiple times. Paying is often the slowest part of the meal.

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Eat like a local

While Plaka, just below the Acropolis, may be one of the most popular places for tourists, avoid eating there. Instead, wander to buzzing Monastiraki, Psirri and central Athens in general for some of the city’s best bites. If you’re looking for a quick, hand-held bite, try Levante sandwiches at Feyrouz or a classic souvlaki at Lefteris O Politis. To enjoy a meal like the modern Greeks, make a reservation at Linou Soumpasis Kai Sia or Gastone. After dinner, stop for playful cocktails at Baba Au Rum or Greek vintages at Heteroclito.

Wander to buzzing Monastiraki, Psirri and central Athens in general for some of the city’s best bites. Photo / 123F
Wander to buzzing Monastiraki, Psirri and central Athens in general for some of the city’s best bites. Photo / 123F

Best time to go

The good thing about Athens is that it’s great year-round. While the city is buzzing during the summer, the temperatures are among the hottest in Europe, and an increase in crowds means an increase in hotel prices. So consider the shoulder season of April through May and September to November.

The good thing about Athens is that it’s a great year-round destination. Photo / Olivier Legrand; Unsplash
The good thing about Athens is that it’s a great year-round destination. Photo / Olivier Legrand; Unsplash

What to pack

Of course, that varies depending on what time of year you visit, but it generally doesn’t rain in Athens, so leave the umbrella at home. And as you’ll want to wander and walk the ancient ruins, make sure to bring comfortable shoes and a small portable bag for any supplies like water and sunscreen.

Getting there

Fly from Auckland to Athens, via Dubai with Emirates or Doha with Qatar Airways.

Getting around

Planting yourself in the centre of the city means that all the best restaurants, cafes, bars and tourist attractions are within walking distance. But Athens also has a metro, tram and bus system with a handy three-day ticket option for tourists.

For more ways to experience Athens, see visitgreece.gr

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