The Stead family waiting for a train. Photo / Old Mate Media
Chris Stead discovers that touring Europe by train with kids is not only cheaper, but better.
The view is mesmerising. As I whip out my phone for yet another photo, I can barely believe the time; my eyes have been glued to the large window for hours.
Or more accurately, the vista beyond. It’s tough work trying to pull your pupils from such natural wonders; snowy peaks, glistening lakes, lush countryside.
Our family of five had awoken in Austria that morning in a chalet just out of Innsbruck; lungs filled with crisp, fresh, wondrous air.
A local train carted us into the town proper, before we switched across to the new line that saw us presently zipping through a Swiss valley. At Geneva we’d have an hour to explore the town, before journeying onwards to Germany.
We’d be there well before dark; enough time to grab some bratwurst, pumpernickel and Bergkäse cheese.
I stretch out my legs, enjoying the room, and contemplate wandering down to the dining car for a beer. My eyes run across my wolf pack.
Three kids, 14, 12 and 9, and my beautiful wife. Sitting in comfort, enjoying the view or a book.
A well-earned moment to relax after days of hiking the Alps. Required recovery for our upcoming visit to Europa-Park.
At that moment, I couldn’t have been happier with the decision to explore Europe by train. The positives far outweigh the negatives, especially when travelling with kids.
No transfers to airports. No check-in queues. We didn’t have to worry about customs or baggage limits or whether we’d fit in the tight seats. No dealing with little plane toilets or turbulence. Our youngest was free to get up and just move! None of the pressure points that become so painful with kids.
And so much cheaper.
Being an island nation, we’re used to flying. We don’t have much of a choice. But in Europe, it’s not your only option.
Quick fact: New Zealand is 1600km top to bottom and a drive that long in central Europe can see you traverse 12 countries!
When we were budgeting for our two months in Europe, the cost of flying between destinations was extreme, and you missed out on a lot of adventure.
Eurail was the solution.
Eurail is an umbrella service that combines train operators from 33 countries into a single network. It allows you to travel relatively flexibly – more on that in a tick – with no, or minimal, additional cost.
There is an initial cost, however, dependent on your rough itinerary.
In our case, that was two months with 15 active days of travel for a family of five, noting that our third child was free as he was under 12.
On the surface, it isn’t cheap – just under $4000 in Second class ($5000 for First).
But for comparison, the cheapest direct flight from Athens to Rome at the time was $2600 for our family.
Indeed, I was shocked at the prices of flights in Europe, given the short distances and when I look back at all the places we went over two months, going by train not only saved us thousands of dollars, but led to some of our favourite experiences.
Many cheaper options may better fit your plans, such as four active days in one month (around $2000 for five). Plus, you can keep an eye out for regular 30% off sales.
Travelling by plane always feels like a means to an end – at least for us plebeians down in economy. But I found the train experience across Europe to be a meaningful part of the journey. It’s not as chill as a cruise or as carefree as hiring a car, but you’re not cattle crammed into a tin can, either.
Seats are generously sized, even in second class, and often have tables. You can bring food and drink with you and wander the train’s length at will.
The dining car allows you to sit with a beer and a laptop, or play cards and have a yarn. Many trains offer internet, too, and as mentioned, every seat feels like a window seat. I’ll never forget that ride through Switzerland; nor will my kids.
Twice we trained overnight; a choice that not only avoided a night’s accommodation but provided another fun adventure – and we still got a bed! Plus, trains tend to drop you off right in the centre of town, close to your hotel.
Our Eurail experience also brought with it opportunity. The app, a tricky beast that does take some time to master, holds your intended itinerary and takes you through the exact steps to get from A to B. But once you’ve activated Eurail for the day, you can go anywhere you want in between.
We used this freedom to just get off randomly to explore a secluded village, have a local’s lunch or for day trips - reliving the fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants escapism I remember as a 20-something.
During our two-month jaunt, we ended up visiting 17 countries, but we couldn’t quite avoid flights altogether. The Eurail network is vast, but not comprehensive.
Especially getting in and out of Greece – even though the pass does work on some ferries – or when covering large distances.
For example, when trying to get from Rust in Germany to Lisbon in Portugal, the quickest train route was a 40-hour journey full of detours. So, we caught a train to the cheapest nearby airport and flew.
Not all routes are free, either. Some require a seat reservation (especially in Italy), which, with five people, can add up. It pays to experiment with routes and departure times in your planning – for example, one route may take an extra hour, but be free versus €15 ($30) per seat.
There are also some vast differences in the quality of the trains, especially as you get into Eastern Europe. They’re all okay, but some – Austria, Switzerland, France – feel new and luxurious.
My point is, don’t expect a consistent experience – each train has different quirks. But that is also part of the adventure.
I can confidently say we would not have made it to half the countries we visited if we hadn’t chosen to explore Europe by rail. The airport logistics with kids and the cost of flying simply wouldn’t have allowed for it. And the trains didn’t just work; they were fun.
Plus, the money we saved went into great experiences like the biggest darn theme park in the world!