Eumundi Brewery. Photo / Visit Sunshine Coast
There's a plucky, creative spirit coursing deep through the veins of Eumundi. Cradled in a verdant and undulating landscape, this charismatic hinterland town on the Sunshine Coast is a perennial crowd-pleaser. If you are partial to a good market, Eumundi's twice-weekly mercantile affair is quite the showstopper.
Back in 1979, the first Original Eumundi Markets day attracted three stalls and eight shoppers. Now, with more than 600 stalls to explore and over a million people visiting every year, this powerhouse market extravaganza has cemented legendary stature in Australia. The market motto here is "Make it. Bake it. Sew it. Grow it." Every Wednesday and Saturday, rain or shine, Eumundi absolutely pulses as locals and visitors come to explore this amazingly ebullient, one-of-a-kind market, spilling forth with locally made treasures.
It's the personal interactions with the producers which underpin its magnetic pull. You'll meet the talented hands behind handcrafted furniture, homewares, artworks, ceramics, cutting-edge fashion and jewellery. Have a chat to the farmers and bakers who sell fresh produce and gourmet delights by the truckload. Chill out under the beautiful heritage-listed fig trees as you indulge in a massage, have your palm or tarot cards read, listen to live local music and watch the street performers. Eumundi Markets reach deep into the 'try before you buy' philosophy, so I happily nibbled my way through a veritable platter of delectable delights.
It was a tour for the taste-buds, noshing my way through Japanese pancakes, peanut brittle and fresh roasted chestnuts while slurping down a glass of ice-cold homemade lemonade. Another sure-fire hit is the Langos caravan, brimming with a variety of flavours. Langos is a traditional Hungarian street food, made from a simple yeast dough, deep fried in oil. If you want to go old-school, order up a salt & paprika Langos. Scrumptious snacks!
Beyond the market scene, Eumundi's characterful main street and surrounds boasts a hive of quirky galleries, gift shops and art studios. Take a self-guided tour through on the Street Art Trail, where inventive artistic installations and murals inject flair and verve into quiet alleyways, across outdoor walls, inside hospo venues and even on the rubbish bins. The Discover Eumundi Heritage & Visitor Centre will happily share their insider tips on the must-sees. Beyond the street art, some of my favourite galleries include The Real McCaul. Specialising in kangaroo and cowhide., this is where Paul McCaul and his team produce superb handcrafted leather goods. You'll love APMA Creations, an Aboriginal owned and operated studio, specialising in fabric art and accessories by Western Arrernte Artist, Merryn Apma. And definitely peruse the wondrous array of local artworks at Artisans Gallery, from artisan woodwork to gorgeous glass work from Tina Cooper.
In addition to the art, the vibrant culinary scene is just as alluring. I enjoyed a delicious lunch at Bungalow Eumundi, a beautiful new restaurant in the heart of town, featuring a light-filled La Casa style setting and a tranquil courtyard. The Bungalow's visual aesthetic is equally matched by their exceptional quality of food, wine and service, where the accent is distinctly Mediterranean. I noshed on Saganaki as a starter, seared Greek cheese with honey, lemon & oregano, before feasting on Eggplant Moussaka as my main, enriched with charred capsicum, potato and bechamel. And I just couldn't resist trying Coconut Panna Cotta for dessert, accompanied with caramelised prosecco cured pineapple & toasted coconut. Bliss.
At night, I had the pleasure of dining at Popina, another culinary heart-stealer where Penny and Alex are at the helm, anchored by southern European fare and revitalised into spectacular modern cuisine. The twinkle of fairy lights, the tinkle of jazz and a sprinkle of al fresco laughter from fellow diners, sets the scene at this diminutive eatery at the south end of town. Historically, a popina was a wine bar in Ancient Rome that had a simple menu of food done well.
This Popina unquestionably raises the bar. With a sharp focus on local seasonal organic produce, Popina's menu is ever-changing. I feasted on the most divine Butterflied Mooloolaba Prawns, with caramelised garlic butter, lemon and parsley. The truly exquisite desserts are as flavourful as they are artistic. I plumped for Raspberry Mille Feuille. Translating as "thousand sheets" in French, this is a classic dessert composed of three layers of light, airy puff pastry. Popina's version was layered with crème patisserie, pistachio and raspberry sorbet. Magnifique!
Where to stay? Make tracks for the town's hottest new haunt, HOLA Eumundi (House of Local Art.) Directly across from the markets, set back from the street, Eumundi's great new lap of luxury is truly a revelation. Intimately chiming with Eumundi's creative credentials, HOLA pays homage to the stirring talents of local artists, craftspeople and designers. HOLA boasts splendidly appointed hotel-style accommodation, where each guestroom is uniquely adorned and furnished with magnificent local artworks available for purchase.
And we're not just talking wall-hangings. The handmade cups, the cutlery, lampshades, cushions - even the bathroom basin, have all been created by local creatives. The attention to detail is exceptional with a giddy spoil of thoughtful touches. I love how the Do Not Disturb door signs are all individually designed with a playful twist. (My sign said "Washing our hair – Do Not Disturb.") They are handmade by local resident, Rene McGovern.
The creature comforts are laid on thick, including Nespresso machines, matching high-end bathroom amenities from Leif, USB power points, big smart TVs and complimentary snacks. The complimentary mini-bar is generously loaded with beers, gin and vodka from Eumundi Brewery and Distillery, plus soda water and tonic from Long Rays. HOLA loves copper, with copper spoons, copper bottle openers and even copper coat hangers. The glassware is made from recycled bottles. An art directory, showcasing all of the art available for purchase, was waiting for me in my room, along with a lovely welcome letter pointing out the various treasures decorating my room and who created them. It's an art-laden hospitality tour de force, spectacularly crafted by Nicky and Paul Thomas. holaeumundi.com.au
These enterprising former Cantabrians relocated to the Sunshine Coast about six years ago and HOLA is just the latest addition to their remarkable Eumundi empire. Adjoining the boutique hotel is one of Eumundi's cherished landmarks, the 110 year old Imperial Hotel, an enormous historic Queenslander pub that is unquestionably the beating heart of Eumundi's social life. Like HOLA, this characterful institution with its sweeping verandahs and sprawling beer garden pulses with personality and wonderful artworks.
But wait – there's more. Within the Imperial, Eumundi Brewery produces superb craft beer, including Lager, Pale Ale and Ginger Beer. For something different, try their Folktale Brut IPA, which is a beer that tastes like a gin! Speaking of gin, Paul and Nicky have also established Eumundi Distillers, crafting a fantastic range of gins and liqueurs, and planning barrel-aged spirits too. Just two years old, the distillery produces small batch handmade spirits using the best UK juniper and featuring the finest botanicals mixed with local Cooroy Mountain spring water. Their fabulous Folktale Gin features a wonderful range of Australian botanicals including lemon and anise myrtles and pepperberry. Their Kaffir Lime Gin is particularly good.
Just south of town, I ventured to the revered culinary destination, The Spirit House. Swaddled by tropical gardens and tranquil ponds, The Spirit House has the right amount of exotic ambience to
transport its guests into the heart of Thailand. Home to an award-winning Asian food restaurant, this is a sublime spot for learning how to make the finest modern Thai cuisine. I freely admit that I have limited culinary prowess, so I felt like I'd been thrust onto the set of Masterchef, feeling hopelessly ill-equipped and out of my depth.
However, the great thing about the Spirit House Cooking School is you are soon put at ease in this highly sociable experience, with a very patient Spirit House chef ably leading you through the process, having you cooking with confidence in no time. Our class created a variety of salivating Thai dishes including slow cooked southern Thai curry with tamarind and potatoes. The steamed sticky rice with coconut and seasonal fruits for dessert was heavenly. I was fascinated to learn that Thai cooks always wash their rice before cooking it, so as to remove excess starch and achieve a pure white colour.
Details:
visitsunshinecoast.com
The chef chats to Herald Travel about unforgettable foodie experiences in Aotearoa.