Enjoying blast from the past on Rangitoto

Travel editor STEVE HART explores Rangitoto, the dark volcanic icon of Auckland's harbour.

As the ferry powered up its engines and pulled away from Rangitoto, the coffee sat in front of me, too hot to drink. That gave me time to wonder how to describe a land made of porous rock and dominated by trees; a land that, from Auckland, can so often look dark and lifeless.

Apart from the ferry engines and the waves, it was quiet - unlike the day that the island was blasted from the sea, sending ash to neighbouring shores.

The eruptions quietened down about 600 years ago and the island hasn't murmured since.

Even before the dust settled all those years ago, the view across the Hauraki Gulf was changed forever by a black pyramid-like form that dominated the horizon. That lifeless look is deceptive. Get closer and you'll see the largest pohutukawa forest in the country. Birds such as fantails, grey warblers and silvereyes have settled there.

From where I sat aboard the ferry I could see the top of the island and remembered the breathtaking view of Auckland, Motutapu Island and my journey down.

The trek from the summit had taken the best part of two hours. Two hours of glorious quiet, the silence only broken by birdsong and my children's questions.

We investigated lava caves where our torches came into their own.

Naturally I went first into the darkness and was so busy finding my feet that I gave little attention to the lowering roof and banged my head.

We emerged from our three minutes of crouching in the dark back into the sunshine - it was a warm day and the heat from the dark volcanic rocks made it feel even hotter (sunscreen, hats and plenty of water are essential).

The track was rough with lots of loose rubble. Good walking boots or solid trainers are a prerequisite. I couldn't help but look at fellow walkers' footwear and was surprised to see some people heading along the track to the summit wearing thongs.

I took the easy way up in an open carriage - the Volcanic Explorer - powered by a tractor.

Bruce, the driver, gave his 24 passengers a running commentary on the island's history as he drove as close to the summit as he could.

We heard there had been 150 baches on the island at one time, but only about 38 now remained. And how prisoners built 19km of hand-packed roads and trails there in the 1920s and 30s. The roads are now used as footpaths around the island.

Prisoners also built a swimming pool that fills up when the tide comes in.

It must have been great fun for families holidaying there in the 1900s. They would boat across, fish for their supper, swim, play and take shelter in baches. Of course some families can still enjoy their Rangitoto baches.

Bought by the Crown in 1890 from its Maori owners for £15, Rangitoto was opened to the public. Years later, money from people buying licences to build baches there helped to pay to develop it.

But it seems the history of the island - a place where generations of families enjoyed long hot days - is being dismantled.

Baches built from the best of kiwi ingenuity have been removed after the owners passed on. No longer can they be handed down from one generation to another because of a decision made in 1937.

It's a shame, I thought, that in a country that has so few monuments of the past that any should be lost at all. But the Rangitoto Island Historic Conservation Trust may yet save many of those that remain with help from the Department of Conservation.

Bruce the driver was a mine of information and happy to answer any questions from his passengers after the 25-minute ride along Islington Bay Road and Summit Road. From there it's a 10-minute stroll to the top of the island.

Hopes of seeing into the belly of the beast were dashed by the large population of trees.

Standing there with a view to die for, I could understand why the island was used as a lookout during the Second World War and as a radar base.

The military made good use of Rangitoto. Buildings at Islington Bay were used to manage minefields in the harbour.

If you're quick, you can take in the views and catch the ride back down. That's a good option if you've completed the walk from the summit before and want to get back to Rangitoto Wharf to follow another track.

Perhaps along the McKenzie Bay Road to the west of the island, where you'll find one of Rangitoto's two natural sandy beaches.

Or there's the Coastal Track to the old mine base, or continue past that to Yankee Wharf. But with the last ferry leaving Rangitoto at 4.20 pm, time is your enemy.

Many people kayak across. I counted seven kayaks on my way to catch the ferry and couldn't help thinking how lucky they were to be able to stay longer.

After stopping off at Devonport, my ferry crossed to Auckland. And gave me a few minutes to down my now lukewarm coffee and give up on trying to answer the question.

Rangitoto can't be adequately described - the only way to understand it is to visit it and walk the walk.

* Steve Hart was a guest of Fullers. Return ferry from Auckland to Rangitoto is $20 for adults, $10 for children and a family pass is $50. A return ferry pass that includes a return ride to the summit is $49 for adults and $25 for children. Ferries leave Auckland for Rangitoto at 9 am, 11 am and 1 pm.

Fullers

* Rangitoto Island Historic Conservation Trust is holding an exhibition on the history of Rangitoto at Takapuna Library on Auckland's North Shore. Email rangitoto@clear.net.nz