NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

England: Monument to murder most foul

By Jim Eagles
NZ Herald·
18 May, 2008 05:00 PM7 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

The cathedral is the official seat for the archbishops of Canterbury. Photo / Jim Eagles

The cathedral is the official seat for the archbishops of Canterbury. Photo / Jim Eagles

KEY POINTS:

I have some hopes that, when it comes to the great final accounting, St Thomas Becket - the martyr of Canterbury - might put in a good word on my behalf.

After all, I intervened on his behalf to stop the eternal flame which burns in his memory at Canterbury Cathedral from going out.

It was early on a grey, wet, English winter's day when we explored the magnificent old house of worship, and the candle which marks Becket's final resting place was fluttering weakly and in obvious danger of dying.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

In the cathedral shop nearby, we found a cassocked priest to whom we told our concerns. Off he strode, mumbling something uncomplimentary about the morning shift and, when we returned to the shrine some minutes later, the flame was strong and bright.

Of course, if the candle had gone out, it would have been just a minor bump in 1000 years of turbulence for Becket.

Friend and chancellor to Henry II, and on the basis of that friendship named Archbishop of Canterbury in 1162, he suddenly became a ferocious defender of the church's prerogatives - not exactly what Henry had expected.

This famously led to a bitter falling out and, in 1170, to the king's plaintive cry: "What a parcel of fools and dastards have I nourished in my house that not one of them will avenge me of this one upstart clerk!" - or words to that effect - prompting four of his loyal knights to ride to Canterbury and hack the archbishop to death in his own cathedral.

The rain poured down as we followed in Becket's footsteps, from the site of his palace across the grand old cloisters and through a heavy door iron-bound into the cathedral.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

There the spot where he was slain is marked by a plain stone altar, where visitors can kneel to offer prayers in his memory, and a dramatic sculpture depicting the swords that hacked him down.

From there, we climbed down the stairs to the crypt, the oldest surviving part of the cathedral, with wall paintings and carvings dating back to the 10th century and, in the centre, the spot where Becket was first buried.

Pilgrims began arriving at the tomb almost immediately, within days the first miracles were reported, in just two years Becket was declared a saint and, before long, Canterbury was rivalling Rome and Jerusalem as a centre for pilgrimage.

This brought the town such prosperity that, in 1220, the shrine was moved up into the cathedral proper, Becket's body laid in a new Trinity Chapel and his shattered skull stored in a golden casket in the adjoining Corona Chapel, whose stained glass windows depict miracles associated with the saint.

Discover more

World

There's a high price to pay if you want to see English holy sites

12 Sep 05:30 PM
Travel

Don't miss: Dickens Christmas Market & Festival

26 Sep 04:00 PM
Travel

England: Diver who saved a cathedral

01 Nov 04:30 PM

The heart of modern Canterbury is still much as the hordes of medieval pilgrims would have found it, with narrow cobbled streets, quaint old buildings leaning outwards over the thoroughfares and venerable inns providing meat, bread and ale.

There's a further reminder of those times in The Canterbury Tales, an entertaining reconstruction of Chaucer's 14th century account of the stories told by a group of pilgrims, based appropriately in the old Church of St Margaret's.

Inside the cathedral, the stone floors still bear the marks of countless pilgrim knees. The glorious columns of the cathedral's nave still soar heavenwards, meeting in a majestic golden arch that fills pilgrims with awe. Among the magnificent tombs here are those of one of England's greatest warriors, Edward the Black Prince, who died in 1376 (his golden armour hanging overhead revealing him to be a shrimp) and Henry IV, who died in 1413 - the only king to be buried in the cathedral, apparently because he was a fan of St Thomas.

Nearby sits Augustine's Chair, official seat of the archbishops of Canterbury, a quiet reminder that this is an office which stretches back through 104 bishops.

But, sadly, the shrine which was once the focal point of the great cathedral is no longer there.

It was demolished in 1538 as part of the Reformation and Henry VIII - apparently carrying a grudge on behalf of his royal ancestor - ordered the remains of Becket to be cast to the winds so it could never be restored.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Today, only the candle burning in a roped-off area of stone paving marks the last resting place of his remains.

But it's hard to keep a good saint down and there are traces of Becket not far away in the Catholic Church of St Thomas of Canterbury.

There, above the altar in the small Martyrs' Chapel, are two reliquaries said to contain a fragment of Becket's bone, probably from a finger, and a small piece of his vestments.

An explanatory note suggests that these were originally presented to Cardinals from Rome, who attended the transfer of Becket's body from the crypt to the new chapels in 1220, and the reliquary with the bone was actually gifted in 1953 by Thomas Becquet, prior of the Abbey of Chevetogne and a collateral descent of the saint.

Canterbury contains many equally remarkable relics of its past, including Bronze Age tools, Neolithic barrows, Roman walls and a Norman castle. But it is best known as the cradle of Christianity in Britain - and hence New Zealand - due to the arrival in 596 of St Augustine (hence the name of the Archbishop's chair), sent by Pope Gregory the Great to convert the Saxons.

Remarkably, the place where Augustine first worshipped, St Martin's Church, is still in use, making it probably the oldest working church in Britain. Built in Roman times, or possibly by Saxons using Roman bricks, it was already being used as a chapel by Queen Bertha, the Christian wife of King Ethelbert of Kent, and so provided an ideal base for his fledgling church.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Later Augustine rebuilt another old church, Christ's Church, turning it into his cathedral, which over the centuries has grown into the magnificent structure which stands today. During recent renovations, the remains of the original cathedral were discovered below the floor of the nave.

Obviously a man of great energy, Augustine also founded an abbey, which once rivalled the great cathedral in size but was also destroyed during the Reformation. You can get a feel for its past glory by wandering round the ruins - but, unfortunately, much of the land is now used for two schools and closed to the public.

In the grounds of these venerable places of worship are the graves of many of the ancient kings of Kent, their bishops - including the original grave of Augustine himself - and their nobles.

But, ironically, perhaps the most visited tomb of all is that of Mary Tourtel, creator of Rupert the Bear, who was buried in the graveyard of St Martin's.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Emirates has three flights a day from Auckland and one from Christchurch to Dubai, and flies from Dubai to several British airports including Gatwick in the south of England. Call 0508 364 728.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

More information: General information on visiting Britain is at visitbritain.com.

Visitor information about Canterbury is at canterbury.co.uk and you can find out about the surrounding county of Kent at visitkent.co.uk.

Canterbury Cathedral's website is at canterbury-cathedral.org.

Jim Eagles visited Canterbury as guest of Visit Britain and Emirates.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM
Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM

The trendy spot is just six minutes from the Waikiki beach.

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP