How to see the best of Edinburgh like a local on your next visit. Photo / Unsplash
Edinburgh local Louise Slyth shares insider tips to make the most of an Edinburgh visit.
Renowned worldwide for its majestic castles, history and culture, Edinburgh is an ever-evolving city that truly has something for everyone.
Born and raised in Scotland’s capital, I may now live in Ireland, but can’t I resist several trips back a year. When I do return, here are some of my favourite spots in the city.
Edinburgh’s centre is divided into two halves: the Old Town, with quirky cobbled streets surrounding the castle, and the New Town, with grand Georgian architecture, built when the city expanded. Staying in the city centre means you can cover most of the main attractions on foot.
Since moving overseas, I’ve stayed at most of the city centre hotels. One of my favourites is The Rutland. It’s a boutique hotel just off iconic Princes Street, and a stone’s throw from the main bus and tram links. It combines the friendliness of a small hotel with the amenities and comfort you’d expect from a 4-star establishment.
Budget-conscious travellers will love the convenient location and friendly welcome at The Hub Rose Street.
Edinburgh knows a thing or two about hosting epic events. The annual Festival Fringe is the largest arts festival in the world, and the Edinburgh International Book Festival attracts readers and writers from across the globe. And as for Hogmanay, our legendary New Year’s Eve party is famous the world over.
Outside festival time, there’s plenty to see and do. Edinburgh is rich in history and has some stunning scenery and architecture. Edinburgh Castle and The Palace of Holyroodhouse are two of the main attractions. They are connected by The Royal Mile, which is also home to St Giles Cathedral, making it one of the city’s busiest tourist streets.
A short stroll from the Royal Mile is the lesser-known (but award-winning) Surgeons’ Hall Museums, which houses one of the world’s largest collections of pathological anatomy. It’s a fascinating insight into the contribution Scotland made to the medical world, with a few body parts in jars thrown in for good measure.
To learn about (and sample) some of our famous Scottish whisky, you could visit The Scotch Whisky Experience in the old town, or for an alternative perspective, try the vertical Port of Leith Distillery. The Johnnie Walker Experience also offers tours, but even if you’re not a whisky fan, it’s worth a visit to the 1820 Rooftop Bar to enjoy food and drinks with unparalleled views of the castle.
A walking tour is a great way to get to know the city. Mercat Tours is a family business that’s been running for 40 years. With both history walks and ghost tours, there should be something for everyone.
A great way to spend a rainy afternoon (and we get our fair share) is at the Scottish National Portrait Gallery. Free to enter, it’s a beautiful building filled with fascinating portraits of Scots through the ages — from Mary, Queen of Scots to national treasures like Billy Connolly.
Edinburgh has green spaces in spades. One of the best views of the city is from Calton Hill, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where you can take in the amazing cityscape. The steep-ish climb to get there is well worth it, especially at sunrise and sunset.
For some tranquillity, head to The Royal Botanic Garden (known to locals as “The Botanics”). Or for something more bracing, you could climb Arthur’s Seat, (an extinct volcano) for panoramic views of the city. You can also stroll along any of the points along the Water of Leith Walkway, which meanders peacefully for 18 miles from Balerno in the south to Leith in the north east.
Of course, there is more to the city than the old and new town. Be sure to visit to one of Edinburgh’s cool neighbourhoods, like Stockbridge, Bruntsfield or Leith.
I must confess to being biased towards Stockbridge, my old stomping ground. The weekly farmers market draws a crowd every Sunday, and the neighbourhood boasts more than its fair share of cool restaurants, bars and unique shops. Don’t miss Circus Lane, one of Edinburgh’s prettiest streets.
Edinburgh has a thriving dining scene that runs the gamut from Michelin-starred restaurants to great bar food.
Gleneagles Townhouse opened in 2022, transforming a building that had once been a private mansion, then The British Linen Bank, into a stylish space that retains its historic grandeur. The Spence combines historic features, like ornate cornicing and a glass domed ceiling, with a buzzy vibe and friendly service that makes you feel instantly at home.
Here you’ll find classic cuisine with a contemporary twist that leans heavily on locally sourced produce like scallops and venison. It’s the perfect venue for a special occasion, or if you just want to feel like a VIP…
Badger & Co. is a cosy gastropub housed in the former residence of Kenneth Grahame, author of the book The Wind in the Willows. Don’t let the whimsical theme and tartan touches fool you. The menu focuses on simple food cooked well. Local ingredients are lovingly prepared to produce decadent Scottish comfort food. Be sure to leave room for dessert; their Sticky Toffee Tea Party is heaven on a plate.
If you love steak, you’ll love Kyloe. In a prime West End location, this smart restaurant sources its meat from Scotland’s best farms and butchers. Diners are shown the different steaks tableside, before choosing their preferred cut (and steak knife) from an impressive array of options. The menu is unashamedly meat-forward, although there are some tempting alternatives like harissa-glazed cauliflower steak. Or seared hake. Dessert lovers shouldn’t miss the signature s’mores; a rich mix of chocolate mousse, meringue, ice cream and caramel sauce.
For great-value vegetarian and vegan fare based on seasonal, local ingredients, Henderson’s in Bruntsfield is hard to beat.
Under The Table has an unassuming name and equally unassuming entrance, but this New Town bistro shouldn’t be overlooked. The light-filled basement offers a warm welcome, an excellent wine list, and a great-value set menu alongside its à la carte dishes.
If you enjoy a tipple, you’ll be spoiled for choice in Edinburgh — from traditional bars with live music to glamorous cocktail bars.
Most visitors plan an evening in the historic Grassmarket. Once a medieval marketplace (and the site of public hangings), it’s now a lively square that’s home to traditional pubs like The White Hart Inn or The Last Drop (named after the last hanging in the Grassmarket in 1864). Cocktail lovers will enjoy the style of Tigerlily, or the cosy candle-lit area of The Bon Vivant.
One of my favourite places for a great cocktail is Lady Libertine, which offers two venues in one: the relaxed café bar on the ground floor, and the buzzy subterranean restaurant and bar, complete with a DJ.
To enjoy some traditional music, head to Sandy Bell’s, famous for its daily folk sessions and malt whisky selection. Or if you prefer something more mellow, visit Whigham’s Wine Cellars for live jazz on Sundays. It’s a great way to round up a visit to the capital.
Edinburgh is an enchanting city with evergreen appeal. Whether you come for history, culture, good food, or nightlife, one visit is unlikely to be enough.
The writer was hosted by Rutland, Badger, Kyloe, Spence and Libertine.