Edge of the rainforest

By GERALDINE MCMANUS

Forest, trees and wood are the signature of the West Coast and the woody interior of Westwood Lodge fits right into the landscape. The West Coast is primeval. Driving along the main highway the road cuts through a swathe of densely packed ancient trees which tower above the car on both sides. South Westland's wilderness includes some of New Zealand's most magnificent original rainforest.

I approached Westwood Lodge from the south. It sits on the outskirts north of Franz Josef village and fits neatly into a clearing before the land disappears into forest again. The building appears low, dwarfed by the awesome landscape. Behind are the soaring slopes of bushclad mountains that rise to a clearly defined snowline, capped in winter and early summer by white.

Westwood Lodge's heating was on, the fire roaring and soft music playing. It was a great welcome. Outside the rain was drizzling down. You can't have rainforest without rain, but it was great to be snug inside. The lodge's main lounge has a huge glass window overlooking the scenery, and even in the rain the setting portrayed a powerful force.

The garden is landscaped in West Coast flora - fitting in with the local surroundings. Although it is some years since the lodge was built, the garden may take a few more years to become established. It has taken hundreds, even thousands, of years to achieve the dense rainforest nearby and unlike the tropics, where one feels that any area left abandoned would be jungle within a short few months, on the West Coast there is an appreciation that creating rainforest, or a garden of local plants, is a long-term project.

As far as weekends away go, Franz Josef in South Westland is a stretch - but it can be done. Janet and Bill Gawn, the hosts, say they do weekends away. Christchurch is a five-hour drive and they pop over for shows, such as opera or ballet, none of which comes to the Coast. There isn't even a movie theatre at Franz. Luckily most visitors to the Coast are seeking the wilderness and outdoors rather than entertainment.

Everyone asks, "Are you doing the Coast south to north or north to south?" There is one major road and travellers most often drive north to south. Everything else is an adjunct to the main track, requiring short excursions on side roads.

On this expedition I had been further south to the Southern Lakes, and the drive back through Westland was a side-trip back to Christchurch.

Westwood Lodge offers more than just bed and breakfast. Dinner is a celebration of West Coast foods. No, not wildfoods, but fresh farmed salmon, whitebait in season and local venison, along with watercress pesto and other inspiring flavours. The four-course menu often includes both salmon and venison, so it was time to indulge.

After dinner a short night-time bushwalk put a fresh glow on life. It's a good idea to take a torch, although once on the pitch-dark track it's important to switch off and be led by the hundreds of glow-worms glimmering among the bushes. It wasn't easy letting my feet feel the way. We stumbled along hanging on to the person in front hoping they knew where they were going. In daylight I revisited the track and there was little to see of the glow-worms - they are a dark wonder.

At Westwood many handmade quilts adorn the beds. Janet is a keen quilter and fabric artist. Her quilts add a touch of difference from the standard bed linen of most commercial accommodation. My room had a forest theme and the quilt and other fabric artworks were bursting with different green tones. Much of Janet's work takes inspiration from the Coast's landscapes and climate.

Waking quite early next day there were good smells from the kitchen. Bill, a southern man, is also happy in the kitchen and was supervising my scrambled eggs. Breakfast was huge. Like most guests, I prepared for a full day of activities, then lingered over the breakfast table chatting with other guests. There does not seem to be any rush on the Coast except the great outdoors beckoning.

I had just a one-night stopover at Westwood. I wished I had really got into the laidback Coast time, staying another day or even a week to get a full impression of the area.

* Geraldine McManus was hosted by Westwood-lodge.

WHERE TO FIND IT

Westwood Lodge, SH6, Franz Josef
Ph: 03 752 0112. Email: westwood@xtra.co.nz

GETTING THERE

On the main highway, three-and-a-half hours' drive from Wanaka, five hours from Christchurch or Queenstown and two hours from Greymouth.
Or take the TransAlpine Express from Christchurch to Greymouth, then catch a bus south. Buses meet the train at Greymouth.

WHAT IT COSTS

Junior suite, double occupancy, $450 a person.
Master suite, double occupancy,$563 a person.
Rates include pre-dinner drinks, four course dinner, bed and breakfast.

SMOKING: Not inside

ACCESS: Full wheelchair access

THINGS TO DO

There are plenty of options such as visiting Franz Josef glacier, scenic flights over the glaciers, guided walks on the glacier and kayaking on the lagoon. Bush walks and exploring the Westland/Tai Poutini National Park are also popular pastimes.