Dunedin's Larnach Castle is just one part of a city that's easy to fall in love with. Photo / Alexia Santamaria
Dunedin's best-kept secret leaves Alexia Santamaria speechless
Sitting at large wooden tables, dwarfed by enormous shiny beer fermenters in a crowd of Friday night patrons chatting happily and quenching their thirst with pints of IPA, it almost feels like we're in Portland, Oregon. And when I go to get another drink and am served by a lady with a light-up-the-room smile and broad American accent, I have to wonder if I am really in Dunedin at all.
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But I am, and it seems every time we come down here it's even more hipthan the last. New New New Brewing Corporation is a truly fabulous place to spend a Friday evening and the hearty, juicy sandwiches crammed with Argentine-style sausage, greens, mayo and chimichurri from Salchichas Food Truck outside could not be a more perfect accompaniment to the Peach and Nectarine sour I have fallen madly in love with.
We get some bottles to go, and head half an hour out of town towards Seacliff, where we are staying. The roads are dark, and the sky inky black, so it's hard to make much out when we arrive. This intensifies the surprise when we throw open the curtains the next morning and are completely bowled over by what is in front of us. There's not much that leaves me speechless (just ask my kids) but the 180-degree vista of lush pasture giving way to a flat, calm sea lit by the vibrant orange glow of a sunrise is truly breathtaking. I can see why Glenn, the owner of our Airbnb calls it Dunedin's best-kept secret.
Breakfast on the deck is dreamy and after tearing ourselves away from this gorgeous view we head out to explore. A walk around the Karitane Peninsula induces more speechless moments as we stop to marvel at the wild sapphire seas crashing on to chalky cliff faces and rugged, rocky shores. Signs indicate important Māori history and this all makes sense when we arrive at what was once the Huriawa pā site. It isn't hard to see why it's the perfect vantage point for a fortification.
Having worked up an appetite, we visit Port Chalmers. We've heard that Carey's Bay's seafood platters are legendary and are keen to investigate the hype. It's utterly deserved - a huge plate piled high with fresher-than-fresh local fish and other luscious, plump seafood cooked to perfection. The traditional pub atmosphere (this historic hotel dates back to the late 1800s) is the icing on the cake and we feel lucky to have snagged a table as patrons steadily fill the dining spaces.
After a poke around the Port and its quirky shops and cafes, we head out to Aramoana. Like many people, my only reference to this part of the country is the tragic events of 1990 and I've never really had any idea what an utterly stunning beach it is. This is New Zealand's raw beauty at its very best, where bright expanses of pure white sand collide starkly with dramatic imposing cliffs. We are the only souls on the beach and sit in silence just soaking up the peaceful atmosphere.
Driving back towards Seacliff, I'm keen to check out the history of the area. Karitane is best known as the birthplace of Plunket, but the neighbouring area has some sad tales to tell. Seacliff was once home to the Seacliff Asylum, where Janet Frame famously spent time in the 1940s. While no buildings stand today, you can clearly see from the picture on the sign where they were and where 37 patients tragically lost their lives in a fire in 1942.
There's an eerie feel to the area for sure, but also a strange sense of calm as the wind gently rustles the trees.
It's been a big day but we've been told it would be criminal to leave without checking out local brewery, Arc, before retiring to our incredible pad for the night. Given the size of Evansdale we're not expecting much but once again this region surprises us. The beer is fabulous and we are delighted with our low n slow brisket meal from food truck, Kenty's Southern Style BBQ.
The next morning after another spectacular southern sunrise, we head back towards Dunedin. But not without another lovely beach walk - this time at Doctor's Point. Our beaches in Auckland seem a bit low key compared to the craggy dramatic rock formations and kilometres of untouched sand we're currently experiencing. It's incredibly beautiful. Just 25 minutes later, we're back in the heart of Dunedin and after a quick coffee stop we head out to the Otago Peninsula towards Larnach Castle. Lunch is at Glenfalloch Gardens, a charming setting with a beautiful fine-dining restaurant, a nice contrast to the food truck hopping we've been doing. We're excited about seeing the castle, as its one of Dunedin's classic sights we've never explored before (the Monarch Wildlife Cruise and the late-night penguin viewing at the Royal Albatross Centre in this area are both excellent).
The "castle" - originally a private home built by William Lanarch in 1871 - is an incredible sight, way more impressive inside than I imagined. The rooms have been restored impeccably to their former grandeur by the Barker family who have owned the castle since 1967 and the commentary is fascinating; the stories of the Larnarch family would make a Shortland Street script look uneventful! The gardens are a wonderful place for a stroll afterwards to warrant the high tea we've booked for the afternoon. Eating dainty scones, sandwiches and cakes from exquisite stands and china in the 280sqm ballroom with its high ceilings, dark-wood beams, chandeliers and heavy maroon curtains is a very special experience.
Our last day is spent in the city itself, mainly exploring her culinary delights. We start with a visit to Bay Road Cafe, where Bay Road Peanut Butter is made (they roast and grind the peanuts themselves so the smell is heavenly). Food comes from the "toast bar" and we love our toppings of peanut butter, banana, freeze-dried raspberries and melted chocolate. The chocolate hasn't travelled far as just next door is Ocho, our next stop. This is perhaps my favourite New Zealand chocolate and I'm delighted to experience the factory tour where we watch all aspects of production and finish with a tasting of chocolate made from cacao from Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands and Fiji. Fascinating and delicious.
Lunch is at Buster Greens Real Food Room. A humming modern space with an excellent menu containing everything from raw slices to cinnamon scrolls and classic eggs Benedict to spicy black beans, smashed avo, lime, scrambled tofu and fresh lime on tortillas. After a bit of shopping (Dunedin is great for off-beat quirky boutiques, gifts, galleries and unique fashion) we know it's finally time to catch that plane home back to reality - and our children. We can't help but wonder what our next trip will bring as new, exciting places seem to be sprouting up weekly. Far from the student town reputation of old, Dunedin is now an absolute must visit for all New Zealanders.
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand flies Auckland to Dunedin several times a day (some flights transit in Christchurch). airnz.co.nz
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed at an Airbnb in Seacliff.
DETAILS
dunedinnz.com
'Queues are shorter and processing times are much faster,' says Auckland Airport boss.