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Home / Travel

Dr Latitude: Wildlife at its best in Namibia

NZ Herald
4 Jun, 2007 04:59 PM7 mins to read

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Big game abounds throughout Southern Africa. Photo / House of Travel

Big game abounds throughout Southern Africa. Photo / House of Travel

Advice on taking the family to southern Africa, exploring Queensland's Carnarvon Gorge and planning a Hong Kong shopping trip.

Our family of two adults and two children aged 9 and 11 plan to go to southern Africa next year, perhaps in May, on our way to Cairo. We want to see the best of the Namibian landscape, the best nearby wildlife, Cape Town and possibly Victoria Falls.

Are there any other unmissable places? Would it be better to go at the end of April on the way to Cairo, or mid-June on our way home? Would Okavango Delta be your choice for wildlife? And how about safe camping or and cheap accommodation?
- A. Racklyeft

You can see the best of the Namibian landscape in the Namib-Naukluft Park. This region is the Namibia of picture-books and movies, and it will not disappoint you. The park is best known for Sossusvlei, towering red dunes that leave you speechless. The Naukluft part of the park is not as well known, but the craggy peaks are almost as impressive as the dunes, and well worth a visit.

Also worth seeing is Damaraland, the territory between the Skeleton Coast and Namibia's central plateau. It is home to a host of species, including giraffes, zebras, lions, elephants and black rhinos, as well as the country's highest massif and the fascinating rock engravings of Twyfelfontein.

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Etosha National Park in Namibia's northwest is one of the world's greatest wildlife-viewing venues and is home to thousands of animals.

Park by one of the many waterholes, settle in with your binoculars, and watch the passing parade. This park makes a good wildlife-watching alternative to the Okavango Delta in Botswana. It has fewer tourists and the camping facilities and bungalows are cheaper.

The Okavango Delta is certainly one of the most spectacular sights on Earth and you shouldn't visit this part of the world without seeing it. Spend some time cruising the champagne-coloured waters in a dug-out canoe.

There are safe camping places in Okavango Delta and at Etosha. Lonely Planet's Southern Africa and Africa guides list recommended campsites and lodges.

We suggest you arrange guides through the delta lodges or safari companies in nearby Maun. Etosha is easily explored on your own by hire vehicle, and staff at the main entrance gates can provide maps and information.

Alternatively, organise a trip through official tour operators in Windhoek. To get to Okavango from Namibia you can travel the Trans-Kalahari Highway from Windhoek and cross the border at Buitpos-Mamuno or in the Caprivi Strip in the north at Mahango-Mohembo.

The Tsodilo Hills in Botswana are another highlight. They rise abruptly from a rippled, ocean-like desert. They are culturally important for the San people and 2750 ancient rock paintings have been discovered here. San people guide groups around the region but there is no public transport to the area.

Victoria Falls is unmissable, as is the Great Zimbabwe National Monument, an intriguing archaeological site where a powerful ancient city once stood and where you'll see the largest pyramids in Africa south of Egypt.

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Chimanimani National Park has some spectacular mountain scenery. Chimanimani Bushwalking Company, at the filling station in Chimanimani village, can arrange hiking and camping trips that include guide, porter, transport, meals, camping gear and park admission fees.

South Africa is filled with stunning landscapes and exciting cities, including Cape Town.

There are other great places to see, such as the white-sand beaches of Transkei and the Wild Coast, the Drakensberg Escarpment, best explored on horseback, and the rainforest near the quiet hamlet of Hogsback.

You should probably visit southern Africa on your way home in June. The weather is cooler and dryer at that time and, at Okavango at least, the water levels are high. If you decide to do any hiking you'll be more comfortable at that time of year. Before you go, read the travel advisories for the countries you plan to visit at safetravel.govt.nz.

Gorge a highlight

We have read about Carnarvon Gorge in Queensland, Australia and would love to go there in September. How can we get there by public transport?
- J Ross

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Stunning Carnarvon Gorge is the highlight of Carnarvon National Park, with dramatic gorge scenery, soaring sandstone cliffs, lush moss gardens, pools, rare vegetation, wildlife and Aboriginal rock art. However, much of the park is inaccessible, and niceties such as shops are nonexistent. It has basic camping sites ($5.50 each), upmarket camping at Takarakka Bush Resort (camping $13each, powered sites $35 for two adults, canvas cabins $90 a night, BYO food) and safari-style cabins at Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Lodge (lodges from $220 a night, restaurant on site).

The national park is around 740km northwest of Brisbane, 270km southwest of Rockhampton and 125km east of Charleville. It isn't served by public transport, so your best bet is to hire a car. If you're coming from Roma, drive 90km north to Injune, then 111km to Wyseby on the edge of the park.

If you're driving from Emerald, it's a 65km drive to Springsure, a further 70km to Rolleston and 61km to Wyseby. The drive into the park from Wyseby is 45km. The closest airports are Roma and Emerald, or you could jump aboard the Spirit of the Outback train from Brisbane to Roma (economy berth $234).

Another option is to take a tour from Brisbane. Try Sunrover (five-day camping safari from $1062), accommodation at Takarakka $1355, Wilderness Lodge $1808 or Coastland Coaches (six-day tour).

Race to the shops

My husband and I are planning a five-day trip to Hong Kong in July. We are interested in horse racing and shopping. Could you recommend where we could stay that would be accessible to Happy Valley and shopping locations? We understand most hotels provide tickets for horse racing tours. Is there anything else that you could recommend?
- Marion

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Happy Valley Racecourse is just south of Wan Chai and Causeway Bay, on Hong Kong Island. Good hotels include the Cosmopolitan (doubles with racecourse views from $132), directly opposite Happy Valley, Charterhouse Hotel (doubles from $201) in Wan Chai and the adjacent South Pacific Hotel's mirrored tower - standard doubles from $265.

Hong Kong's racing season runs from September to early July, with races held on Wednesdays and weekends. The Hong Kong Tourist Association runs evening dinner tours. Trams run to Happy Valley, or it's a 20-minute walk from Causeway Bay.

Hong Kong's second racecourse, Sha Tin, is in the New Territories. Races are generally held on weekends and trains run from Hong Kong to the racecourse station on race days.

Hong Kong has plenty to offer visitors. The massive Times Square shopping plaza is only a few minutes' walk from Happy Valley, with 10 floors stacked with retail outlets, and three floors of restaurants and cafes. Other shopping hubs are Admiralty and Central, next to Causeway Bay on the island, and Tsim Sha Tsui's Nathan Rd in Kowloon.

You'll be spoiled for choice food-wise. Standout choices in Wan Chai include Che's Cantonese (Broadway, 54-62 Lockhart Rd; mains from $50), flash Italian at Cine Citta (Starcrest Bldg, 9 Star St; mains $35-45), Dynasty (Renaissance Harbour View; mains $18-70) for dim sum, R66 (Hopewell Centre; buffets $35-50) for stunning 62nd-floor views and One Harbour Road (Grand Hyatt Hotel; mains $26-79) for classy Chinese.

Filling in the rest of your stay won't be difficult. Take the tram to the top of the Peak, ride the Star Ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui, visit the Temple St night market in Yau Ma Tei and take a ferry over to Lantau or Lamma Island. If you enjoy museums, you can choose from the Heritage Museum (admission $2), Museum of Art (admission $2), Museum of History (admission $2), the Science Museum (admission $5.50) and the Space Museum (admission $2).

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Lonely Planet experts are available to answer questions from readers. Email them to: travelinfo@lonelyplanet.co.nz. They may not answer all questions and cannot correspond directly with readers or give advice outside the column.

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