Captain Cook discovered the island (for the Western world - of course, its Kanak inhabitants were already aware of its existence) in 1774 on his second trip to New Zealand, and named it for the native araucaria pines that grow all over the 15km by 13km island. Part of New Caledonia and 100km southeast of the capital Noumea, the French occupied the island in 1853 and not long afterwards the Kanaks converted to their new settlers' faith, Catholicism.
Nicknamed l'ile la plus proche du paradis (the closest island to paradise), it is not difficult to see why L'ile-des-Pines takes top position on many a bucket list.
As we pass a small island, shaped by erosion into a cupcake, what looks to be a large mobile stone glides through the sparkling water below us. With an imperceptible rocking of the boat and barely a splash, Victor dives into the sea and, within seconds, surfaces alongside the large solemn-eyed face of a sea turtle.
He can't lift the creature from the water - it probably weighs as much as he does - but instead gently supports it. One at a time, we are given the opportunity to swim over to meet the turtle. Feeling a bit sorry for it and conscious of our rude invasion of its day, I choose to remain on the boat. I am told later by some of the other passengers that, rather than the hard rock-like shell you might expect, the animal has a coating of moss and is soft to the touch.
The turtle slowly blinks in the sunlight (probably wondering what the hell is going on) before Victor releases his hold. It hangs in the water for a few seconds then, with a powerful snap of its flippers, the turtle is gone.
Our boats moor in the warm shallow waters and we swim and explore the bay.
The sand, the remnants of ancient coral, is a pale golden powder and shifts under my feet as I wander the glorious beach, once again lost in the constantly changing hues of the sea.
The incredible colour, I am told, is because of a combination of the clear blue sky reflected and refracted against the almost purely white sands by the crystal clear waters of the bay.
The shifting palette of blues and greens is hypnotic and I know I will never capture its true beauty on my camera. But I have a go anyway and am not too disappointed with the results.
We continue on our journey across the azure and cobalt bay until suddenly the pilot of one of the other boats cries out excitedly, pointing down at the sea. We slow to a stop and a vast undulating sheet of darkness moves under the boat. A manta ray, huge, graceful and eldritch, billows through the water, its milky white underside a contrast to its dark back.
Victor jokes that he will catch it for us to meet, but the waters are deep and he stays on board, leaving the unusual beast to its business as we continue our trip across the bay. Grinning, he announces that it is time for a bit of speed - he warns us to hold tight and pushes the throttle down.
It's impossible not to laugh with delight as we skip across the waves racing the other boats, a warm breeze forcing us to clutch our hats to our heads for fear of losing them to rays and turtles.
This really could be paradise. Or the closest thing to it.
CHECKLIST
Details: Ships in the Celebrity Cruises fleet travel regularly to Isle of Pines and destinations around the world.
Further information: See visitnewcaledonia.com.
The writer was a guest of Royal Caribbean.
CRUISE TIPS
Alison Kearney from House of Travel - Howick, shares her top tips on how to make the most of your Celebrity Cruise experience.
1. Take a dining and beverage package so you can save at specialty restaurants and pay just one price for your drinks.
2. Upgrade to an Aqua class cabin for early check-in, daily canapes, fruit and bottled water, access to Blu restaurant, Persian garden and spa.
3. Relax in the lawn bar and grill at sailaway, imagine yourself enjoying good music and wine while the Santorini sun sets.
4. Enjoy the culinary delights at the speciality restaurants — Murano, Tuscan Grill, Silk Harvest — a small charge but a wonderful experience.
5. Relax over breakfast on your own balcony by ordering room service breakfast.
6. Visit the Molecular Mixology bar and let the cocktail barman assault your senses.
For more information visit houseoftravel.co.nz.
