NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Cruising Ireland's canals

Herald on Sunday
5 Dec, 2011 02:00 AM4 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

First-time canal boaters on the Shannon-Erne Waterway are told that the rudiments of negotiating locks is idiot-proof, and so it proved to be. Photo / Tourism Ireland

First-time canal boaters on the Shannon-Erne Waterway are told that the rudiments of negotiating locks is idiot-proof, and so it proved to be. Photo / Tourism Ireland

Susan Buckland delights in floating down an Irish canal in a home away from home.

We were one man and four women in a boat. The roomy canal barge that drifted along Ireland's Shannon-Erne Waterway could just as easily have been carrying a family of Mum, Dad and four kids.

"Family holidays are popular on the canals because plenty happens on the water, let alone on land when you dock," grinned the boat-hire manager.

He had reassured our novice crew that the penichette (French for barge) was idiot-proof and took us through the canal boat drill to master the fundamentals, including the science of penichette lavatory pumps.

"Operate the locks with a swipe of your lock card and push of a button or two. Piece of cake," he promised.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Our crew's bloke appointed himself captain. "Just to get the show under way. Everyone could have a go at being captain," he decreed manfully.

As deckhands, we girls assumed lock duty.

Our chosen route, the Shannon-Erne, traversed canals, streams, rivers and lakes. The Emerald Isle's generous rainfall replenishes the network of rivers, lakes and canals that extend from the tip of Northern Ireland to Waterford in southeast Ireland and Limerick in the southwest.

We meandered with countryside unfolding in a tableau of pasture, woodland and villages, an Ireland not seen from the road.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

The Shannon and the Erne are linked by the Ballinamore-Ballyconnell Canal, which opened in 1860 for navigation of Ireland's two great waterways. Its working life was cut short by competition from steam train transport, and more than a century passed before a massive feat of engineering converted the canal into a waterway for pleasure boats. The cruising waters extend for hundreds of kilometres.

Our stretch of revitalised waterway included 16 locks. After some post whacking we got the hang of steering the 14m vessel and emerged with dignity intact. The more we sailed the less we resorted to using the bow thruster to avoid river banks.

The weather was nippy in early May, but our boat was built for the weather. We could steer it from the open top deck or from inside the cabin.

The locks were all electro-hydraulically operated, in technical parlance. Our captain cracked orders for two of us to leap ashore, swipe the lock card and press the right lock button for entering the lock and hitching to a mooring. It took about 15 minutes to negotiate each lock.

Discover more

Travel

Roar of the Celtic tiger reaches Donegal

15 Apr 05:00 PM
Travel

Ireland: House of horrors

13 Feb 04:30 PM
Travel

Ireland: Ancient settlement's sad end

14 Mar 11:00 PM
Travel

Ireland: Be blown away

10 Apr 05:30 PM

When twilight descended we pottered in the galley making snacks, pouring wine and slotting Irish music in the CD player. There were four cabins on our boat with compact en-suite bathrooms. Storage was limited and some of us rued bringing big cases.

As the penichette had a well-equipped kitchen, we cooked meals on board or moored for pub dinners. The village of Keshcarrigan was chosen for a dinner of freshly caught salmon. The tiny town has two of the best music pubs in Ireland, Gerties being one. The villagers have an unusual way of celebrating St Patrick's Day. They march backwards. Many then march to the pub, presumably backwards.

We farewelled our penichette at the bustling canal town of Carrick-on-Shannon. I watched a cargo boat heave out down the river. The skipper bore an uncanny resemblance to his dog as they both stared pointedly in the direction of the Grand Canal.

Carrick-on-Shannon, steeped in history, also bills itself as a paradise for anglers. Within a 10km radius of the town are 41 lakes, more than enough for the town's annual international fishing competitions.

At the end of our voyage we were all still friends. The captain had eventually relinquished his role and joined the deckhands.

We all regretted not leaving enough time to ride the hired bikes on board along country trails. But we picnicked ashore, watched birds, explored historic towns and dropped fishing lines from the barge and from ancient stone bridges. The Shannon-Erne Waterway is home to many wild fish - bream, roach, perch pike, salmon and brown trout among others.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

You can plot your route to suit and ease into the gentle pace of the life on the Irish waterways.

TRAVELLERS' TIPS

Boat hire: See Locaboat Ireland or shannon-erne.com. Boats range in size from two to 10 berths. The Shannon-Erne Waterway is two hours from Dublin and Belfast.

Further information: See Tourism Ireland's website.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

New Zealand's most trusted firms revealed

17 Jun 09:26 PM
Travel

How to visit six European countries in 13 stress-free days

17 Jun 08:00 AM
Herald NOW

Matariki weekend: The top 10 most searched destinations

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

New Zealand's most trusted firms revealed

New Zealand's most trusted firms revealed

17 Jun 09:26 PM

The 2025 Kantar Corporate Reputation Index has been announced.

How to visit six European countries in 13 stress-free days

How to visit six European countries in 13 stress-free days

17 Jun 08:00 AM
Matariki weekend: The top 10 most searched destinations

Matariki weekend: The top 10 most searched destinations

What the inaugural Jetstar flight from Hamilton to Sydney was really like

What the inaugural Jetstar flight from Hamilton to Sydney was really like

16 Jun 08:16 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP