KEY POINTS:
Kiwis, eh?" said Todd, the crisp young purser as he checked us in and handed over our cabin key. "We don't get many people from Downunder on board the Wind Surf. After a magical eight-night, nine-day Italian voyage, I have a feeling the Americans won't be able to keep her to themselves for much longer as more and more New Zealanders discover the joy of luxury cruising under sail.
At 617 feet (188m), the five-masted Wind Surf is one of the largest sailing ships in the world. She has two smaller sister sailing ships, the Wind Spirit and the Wind Star, but they're half the size of their big sister. She cruises at 10-12 knots under engine, but when all her sails are unfurled, she does 15 knots. It's the sails that make the difference. She might be small but she's perfectly formed and her size means she can get into the smaller ports that can't manage the big liners.
Returning from our daily shore excursions, you couldn't help but feel a sense of pride comparing her with the great cruising factories towering over her in the harbour.
Our captain was a newbie - this was the first time he'd taken the Wind Surf wheel and he was obviously delighted with the command. He recited the ship's credentials at the captain's drinks on the second night and then gave us his own.
It was a little disconcerting to learn that Captain Jan Ove Lidal had started his career as a submariner - surely the two jobs are diametrically opposed - but days at sea without so much as a tilt to starboard restored my faith in the man. Besides, he looked like a captain - touching 60, blue eyes that seemed perfect for squinting into the sun, and a neatly trimmed white beard.
If you choose to sail on Wind Surf come prepared to make your own fun. There are no organised activities on board and if it's origami at 11am, line dancing at 2pm and bingo at 5pm you're after, this is not the ship for you. She carries a maximum 300 passengers, and usually attracts newly weds or baby boomers on their second honeymoons. There weren't many oldies and children are not encouraged.
On-board facilities do include a well-equipped gym, a spa and hairdresser, a DVD and book library, casino and internet centre. But we were in port every day bar one of our nine-day voyage, so we didn't need much in the way of entertaining.
Boarding at Citavecchia, an hour from Rome, we took the long road to Venice, via Amalfi, Taormina, Corfu, Dubrovnik and Hvar, with only one full day at sea. The shore days were punishing - 10 hours typically - to see the sights, walk the ruins and shop up a storm. Walking in torrid August heat, up cobbled streets and slippery steps, is not for the frail or infirm.
By the time we'd returned to ship and freshened up, we felt we'd earned a drink. There's no finer way to enjoy a sundowner than sitting with friends on a luxury sailing ship, watching the lights of a picturesque village fade as you sail out to sea.
One on-board treat I was really looking forward to was swimming off the back of Wind Surf. After a scorcher day walking round Amalfi, I couldn't wait to get back, put on my togs and head down to the watersports deck. Imagine my horror when told you can only swim off the back of the smaller ships, ever since some hysterical git complained of feeling `suction' while swimming off the back of Wind Surf five years ago. You could kayak, if you wanted, and on still days, water skiing was available. But no swimming.
The crew want to change the policy, they told me nervously as they tried to ward off what they could see was an impending tantrum. If I came back the next day, I could swim - so long as I wore a life jacket and held on to a rope attached to the ship. It's hard to flounce in togs but I believed I managed and although some passengers took advantage of the opportunity the next day, I cut off my nose to spite my face and sulked instead. If I couldn't dive off the back of the boat into the sparkling Mediterranean waters, then I wouldn't do it at all.
The only other gripe was the shocking quality of the main lounge band. A halfway decent band would have given the honeymooners, both the young and the second time rounders, an opportunity to enjoy a close waltz before retiring to their luxurious cabins.
Wind Surf has no balcony cabins, but most of us spent so little time aboard that I really didn't miss one. The beds were easily the most comfortable I've slept in _ ever. Luxurious Egyptian cotton sheets atop a pillowy mattress combined with the gentle motion of the ship created the best night's sleep I've enjoyed on any holiday.
Wind Surf really does ruin you. The staff are superb and know your name - and drink preference - by the second day. The food is exquisite. So, when planning your holiday, ensure you book the cruise as the finale - because it will be the absolute highlight and all other experiences will pall by comparison.
- Detours, HoS
