NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Cromwell: Speed rules in Central Otago

By Elisabeth Easther
Spy.co.nz·
13 Dec, 2015 01:00 AM6 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Cromwell, Central Otago.

Cromwell, Central Otago.

Dogs, racing cars, bikes and curling are just some of the highlights of a whistle-stop trip to Cromwell, finds Elisabeth Easther.

Ideally, you don't whizz around Central Otago at high speed but when time is limited, sometimes you have to accept there's no slowing down. At Highlands Motorsport Park Museum, Restaurant and Raceway, going fast is what it's all about.

We're not motorsport people so Highlands Park, on the outskirts of Cromwell, wouldn't have been on our agenda if we'd not been told to swerve in. The brainchild of Aussie pet food baron Tony Quinn, this international race circuit is the only place of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere and, surrounded by a bowl of stunning mountains, these race facilities are fast becoming famous.

After polishing off a delightful lunch at The Nose Restaurant - complete with an aroma room for training your wine schnoz - our speed-quest kicked off at the go-kart track. After the safety briefing, we were fitted with hairnets and helmets and told to keep all our body parts inside the kart.

We were also told in no uncertain terms, bumping into other drivers or hitting the kerbs on purpose would result in our cars being electronically slowed by staff. I found that rather comforting.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Watching my only child, Theo, whizz off at speeds of up to 50km/h, nothing more than a chopper guard ahead of me waving in the wind, I was actually surprised at what a good driver he was. Over seven laps, the computer told us there was just .347 seconds between our times.

Giddy from going so fast, we were next introduced to handsome young Andrew, a real racing car driver who picked us up in a Porsche Cayenne to take us on a high-speed taxi ride. Once around the track we went slowly, admiring the views.

Dotted around the outskirts we spotted dinosaurs, giraffes, aliens and peacocks - the landscaping has been done with a quirky dose of good humour.

The second lap was so fast I simply had to squeal, although I did say to Andrew if he heard me screaming not to brake, these were simply noises of appreciation.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Theo described the ride as exhilarating and accelerating in equal measures. In our rental car, heading to Cromwell, I had to remind myself to keep my speed down.

We checked in at The Heritage Boutique Lake Resort, which rests on the shores of Lake Dunstan, and as the light faded, the water became a crisp reflecting pool.

The close proximity of The Moorings Restaurant and Bar, with its blazing outdoor fire, meant we didn't have to bother with cooking and our host, gracious Karen, served outstanding culinary delights.

Waking to the sun stealing pinkly over the mountains, we rose bright and early to walk along the marina's edge, the willows weeping into the water, presumably tears of joy. Our first appointment was at Real Dog Adventures, 75 minutes' drive from Cromwell near Ranfurly.

Discover more

Lifestyle

Wine: A sense of place

21 Nov 03:00 AM
Travel

Hit the trail this summer

23 Nov 08:42 PM
Travel

My holidays: Paul Hobbs

24 Nov 08:30 PM
Travel

Martinborough: The main squeeze

04 Dec 07:00 PM

This is where husband-and-wife team Nigel and Rose raise Alaskan malamutes and Canadian eskimo dogs as well as manufacturing all sorts of canine paraphernalia. Nigel, a butcher-turned-police officer, and Rose, in another life an anaesthetist, are parents to three kids and 21 dogs and they couldn't be happier with the new direction their lives have taken.

Time was in short supply, so we had to choose between a dogsled ride or meeting the dogs. Because sledding alone wouldn't provide the chance to cavort with the canines, much as we wanted to do both, we opted to meet the team.

We were amazed to learn that one dog can pull over a tonne on its own. As for Theo, he was thrilled to have patted the rarest dog in the world. Maple is a Canadian eskimo dog, descended from Antarctic explorers, and there are just 300 of them left in the world.

Aside from their work in the sled team, the dogs also dabble in acting and modelling and have glamorous campaigns for luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton and Veuve Clicquot on their CVs.

Meeting the team was a blur of fur, licks and love. One at a time, various dogs were brought out for cuddles but Lucy and Maple stole the show.

All too soon it was time to move on and, covered in dog slobber souvenirs, we headed for Naseby for curling, which is much like playing bowls on ice.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Entered through the Black Forest, Naseby is described as being "2000 Feet Above Worry Level" and this vintage village and its historic shopfronts is more like a time capsule than a working town.

Elisabeth Easther's son Theo in Cromwell, South Island. Photo / Elisabeth Easther
Elisabeth Easther's son Theo in Cromwell, South Island. Photo / Elisabeth Easther

As New Zealand's curling capital, the facility is outstanding thanks to the Becker family, who have turned curling into a serious sport. Kiwis have taken out some big titles.

Ewan, a retired bank manager-turned-coach, quickly equipped us with the knowledge we needed to get cracking and, after a few trials, we were let loose on the ice, throwing, tossing, sliding, gliding and giggling.

Things had just kept getting cooler as the temperature dropped, but I was dead-set on riding a portion of the Otago Central Rail Trail - there was no way I was coming this far and not hopping in the saddle for at least one short leg of this legendary trail.

As luck would have it, the sun shone when we met Steve from Shebikeshebikes. Saddling up at Auripo, we headed for Lauder and it was love at first bike. Starting with a gentle slope, we rode through tunnels, over bridges and past rabbits. The colours were sensational. We have resolved to return when we're in less of a rush.

On the second and final day, we decided to cram in two walks as one little beauty was right behind our hotel. Trotting up the 45th Parallel, we made like mountain goats, stopping only to admire the little skinks sunning themselves on the stones or to collect shiny rocks, fool's gold perhaps, but good enough to take a few specimens home.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

The spectacular views took in mountains and the lake and we wished we weren't doing everything on fast-forward. Next stop the Sluicings Loop, a two-hour walk outside Bannockburn, within cooee of the Mt Difficulty vineyard. This easy hike is like landing on another planet, with little caves to explore and signs pointing out areas of historic significance from the gold-mining days.

To top it all off literally, a scenic flight with Heliview put everything into perspective. Nothing can prepare you for lift off in a chopper. A hover, a zip and a zoom and we were up, up and off to the top of a pristine mountain where Nordic skiers and skidoos come to play.

Landing on snow, the crunch of the runners on ice, we felt like we had arrived on top of the world. Snowballs and superlatives flew as Richard, our pilot, handed out hot chocolates, a welcome treat for frosty paws. What a cool way to spend a weekend.

• Heritage Boutique Lake Resort, Cromwell
• Highlands Motorsport Park
• Real Dog Adventures
• Naseby Indoor Curling Rink
• Shebikeshebikes
• Heliview Helicopter Flight

Elisabeth Easther and her son were guests of Central Otago Tourism.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel news

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM

If you need a break from the slopes or don’t fancy a ski, there’s still a lot to do this.

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM
Flight from NZ has windscreen shattered after landing in Brisbane

Flight from NZ has windscreen shattered after landing in Brisbane

18 Jun 10:45 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP