Creative Nelson has much to offer

Te Puna Wai Lodge is a perfect example of 19th-century architecture.

In autumn the valleys south of Nelson smell like apples. Fallen apples a week old. Cidery.

And then you get stuck behind what seems like a quickly disintegrating cattle hauler, and the outskirts of Nelson, the horrible industrial strip of Nelson, and finally the Port Hills of Nelson, smell like something very different.

Maybe it's fitting we arrive at Te Puna Wai lodge in our manure-caked Mitsi while James Taylor is doing the gardening.

It's good to get indoors.

James' partner, and the inspiration behind Te Puna Wai lodge, Richard Hewetson, bought the house 13 years ago and spent half of that time fully renovating and filling it with treasures.

But perhaps the most treasured item is a photograph of the house in its early years, the owner in a dark frock coat and heavy moustache just ghosted to the side, peering out proudly from this crow's nest above Nelson port.

For villa and bungalow owners, this perfect recreation of New Zealand architecture circa 1857 will have one of two effects: you will either be inspired to restore every skirting, architrave and borer-ridden plank to its original condition, or shattered as you contemplate returning to those creaking timbers at home, knowing there's neither the time nor money to pull off a similar job.

The best way to soothe the pain is with one of Richard and James' breakfasts, hosted in their dining room on the second floor (let them know so they can turn on all the trappings). This is the vault - where the art and antiques compete with the view of the harbour.

It's a refined dine in every aspect, with an added touch of the commonplace from a different time - the milk comes in glass pint bottles.

With that you're on your way, over the hills and down through the valley into the city centre.

Maybe it's the high sunshine hours (2500 per year - the highest in the country) but nearly without exception there's something unusually optimistic going on.

This zeal is replicated in Victorian shop to Victorian shop - studios, galleries, little cooker cafes, crafts, clothes.

It's hippy without being dippy or too trippy, and you can happily leave your cynicism for that kind of carry-on at the welcome mat.

The shopping is abundant and all within walking distance.

Of course, the biggest shopfront for this is the World of Wearable Art and Collectable Cars centre further out of town in Annesbrook.

It's the showpiece for past entries from the annual arts and fashion event of the same name which will now be held in Wellington.

The dark theatre setting heightens the impact of the revolving display, and the classic cars provide a cunning complement for those who find the Wearable unbearable.

The town is the mothership for all that creative energy resonating through Nelson but you'll find it distilling out in the countryside as well.

The renowned wineries of the Nelson area are nicely grouped in two easy-to-reach places - on the Waimea plains around Richmond or further out in the Upper Moutere.

This situation offers women a unique opportunity, too - it's one of the few times they'll see a man voluntarily read a map as he searches out a delicious drop.

But the best way to make a day or night of it is by wine tour.

One of the biggest scenic attractions in this area is the Abel Tasman National Park, the country's smallest - and most popular - which is about 75 minutes from Nelson. There are two gateways from that direction to the park, at Kaiteriteri and Marahau.

There are plenty of short walks which could set you up for the 51km, three-to-five-day hike.

But for now it's back down the coastal highway to Mapua, a small village on the beautiful Waimea inlet. It's a small town blessed with many good eateries and usually drenched in sunshine. And sometimes that's all you need.

* Andy Hay was a guest of Te Puna Wai lodge.

Where to find it

Te Puna Wai Lodge is at 24 Richardson St, Nelson, phone (03) 548 7621

Rates

There are three separate rooms. On the ground floor, the Haulashore apartment includes full designer kitchen, top quality appliances, luxurious bathroom, fireplace and direct entry to a sun-facing terrace. $260 double, $190 single.

The Wakatu room, at the back of the house, is luxurious, but kitchen facilities include only tea/coffee and fridge. $160 double, $120 single.

On the top floor, the Fifeshire suite has sumptuous decor, a view out to harbour, luxury bathroom, tea/coffee and fridge. $210 double, $165 single.

Rooms can be booked separately or in combination.