Colossal beauty of the Rockies

The Canadian Rockies are as magnificent as you would expect. From whichever direction you approach them, whether by road or rail, they are spectacular, and for many visitors, seeing them is the fulfilment of a lifelong dream.

Lake Louise and Jasper are located in the valleys between the snow-capped mountains of Banff and Jasper National Park. The alpine communities are different in character, so all are worth a visit. A bonus is the Icefield Parkway which links these jewels.

In Banff, the mountain scene around each of the three alpine communities is quite different. The mountains rise close around you. In Lake Louise, your attention focuses on the hanging glacier reflected on the lake. And in Jasper, the mountains are a 360-degree panorama in the middle distance. All this is to say that if you have the time, you should visit all three communities and the lakes, waterfalls, lookouts and attractions in between.

All are linked by the Icefield Parkway - five hours (nine hours on the Brewster sightseeing tour) of window-to-window mountains, through valleys cut by glaciers and fast-rushing rivers. Colossal mountains set against a clear blue sky slide by. Mt Assinaboine, Castle Mountain, Mt Eisenhower, Mt Edith Cavell, Mt Rundle - most Canadians can identify them on sight.

You'll see the famous Canadian wildlife, and, if you're on a tour, your driver will stop to let you take pictures. Black bears, moose, caribou, elk, white-tailed deer, bald eagles, dahl sheep, Rocky Mountain sheep, squirrels, chipmunks and, in autumn, salmon running up-river to spawn. You might even see bears scooping salmon from the rivers. Moose, elk and caribou browse the highway verges and sometimes wander into town and on to golf courses. It is "wildlife", so don't get too close - chipmunks and squirrels will eat out of your hand, but might bite if you tease them.

Banff is an old, established resort, overlooked by the "castle", the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. The beauty of the region, the clear mountain air, and the therapeutic springs attracted Victorian visitors there over 100 years ago. Tourism was the main reason the legendary Canadian Pacific Railway runs through seemingly impossible mountain terrain.

There are pleasant walks just minutes from Banff Ave along the banks of the Bow River and up the lower mountain slopes to alpine meadows. A gondola ride to the top of Sulphur Mountain provides the widest panorama of the region, and a bit of exercise if you walk to the lookout. The various sightseeing tours give an up-close of mountain sheep, white-tailed deer, moose and the occasional bear.

There is plenty to do in Banff; an interesting western museum traces the history of the railroad, settlers, and first-nation peoples. A progressive art gallery and museum provide pleasant surprises including a collection of amusing old cartoons that poke fun at tourists, as well as a large collection of ancient cowboy and settler photographs. And the shopping, of course.

Less than an hour away is the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, built on the lake shore simply because it's one of the most beautiful places on Earth. The view from the Chateau is of the overhanging glacier at the lake's end, which occasionally drops house-size chunks of ice into the water. You can sometimes hear the ice creak, crack and explode its way down the mountain.

You can take a canoe out on the lake or follow a trail up to the Agnes Lake tea house. Or you can join an eye-opening interpretive nature walking tour from the hotel. And all around are cheeky chipmunks and squirrels.

At the northern end of the Icefield Highway is the third jewel in Alberta's crown - Jasper, and the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge and golf course. Jasper is a less busy town than Banff, and seems to have more of a western flavour with a few stetsons and well-worn cowboy boots in evidence. You can't "touch the mountains" here as you can in Banff and Lake Louise, but they are not far away, and the lakes and river views make the area just as interesting.

Some of the other must-sees along the Icefield Parkway are: the Athabasca Icefield where you ride an ice explorer on the glacier; the Athabasca Falls, a thundering cataract down through the Athabasca River gorge; the Malign Canyon boardwalk along the wall of the canyon to caves which lead to yet another waterfall; Malign Lake itself is a beautiful azure and on a still day, Reflection Lake speaks for itself.

- HERALD ON SUNDAY