Much of the original city of Chicago was destroyed in the great fire of 1871, but its rebuilding led to it becoming known an architectural destination. Photo / Thinkstock
Bet your bottom dollar you'll lose the blues in Chicago — while watching the All Blacks and taking in the city
Niral Patel quit her job in Abu Dhabi to fly home to Auckland for the Rugby World Cup in 2011. Her next overseas jaunt, in Jakarta, would end after she bought tickets to the All Blacks vs Eagles game in Chicago — before she had a job or US work permit.
Now settled in Chicago, the rugby nut is counting down to next weekend when the teams will face their first match on American soil since 1980.
"I would do anything to watch them live and if I could, travel the world on tour with them," she says.
"I love that feeling of pride when our national anthem is sung and the intensity when the haka is performed.
"When that whistle blows there's nothing but rugby on my mind and I often lose my voice cheering. I'm rugby-mad!"
She's not the only one. Patel is one of thousands of Kiwis expected to converge on Chicago to cheer the All Blacks next weekend.
Although the match is the focus, Chicago first-timers will find there is something for everyone — whether it's art, music, architecture, shopping, outdoor pursuits, eating and drinking.
Here are some ideas ...
Hop aboard an architectural cruise with First Lady Chicago to wend your way through the scenic surrounds of skyrises and learn how the river birthed the city of today. Its waterway and railroad centrality sparked exponential growth from 1850, but the great fire of 1871 that destroyed more than 17,000 structures brought an architectural reawakening.
"That's why Chicago is known as the Second City — because our first one burned down," says guide Karen.
"But because of the tragedy and clean slate, Chicago has become the architectural destination that it is. We got a second chance."
Contextualism was key and whether it's Spanish renaissance-style complexes or neo-gothic apartments, each towering structure fits together with the next, perfectly snuggled against the river — like the eye-catching Gateway Centre IV/300 South Riverside Plaza, a design project led by James DeStefano.
"It curves in anticipation of the river, features dark green glass picking up the green of the water and has a convex shape — so the reflection of opposite buildings have a rippled effect, just as the water ripples in the wind."
Take an architectural cruise on the river. Photo / Supplied
Look out for the Hard Rock Hotel's gold, champagne bottle-top-like roof, and the River City condominiums by Bertrand Goldberg, who didn't believe in conventional rules "like right angles", so designed a complex using curves.
From the dock, the 20-minute walk to the Godfrey Hotel via Magnificent Mile quickly has me realising this is not a street to be walking engrossed in your phone.
Look down for a few seconds and you will miss gothic exteriors tucked away behind trees like leftover sets from The Addams Family; Starbucks only recognisable by logos; clothing stores entered through a wall of sewing machines; and colourful pavement art.
Before the sun goes down, hit the I|O Urban Roofscape on the Godfrey Hotel's fourth floor — "I|O" representing its indoor/outdoor space and retractable glass roof.
Settle amid firepits and water features and take in the unique view of surrounding high-rises shooting up into the sky, while sampling Chef Riley Huddleston's lamb lollichops, honey-chicken bites and truffle fries.
Huddleston scientifically crafted the cocktail menu (using meters to measure acidity and sugar content), which includes a mojito laced with frozen mint balls, made with mint plucked from his rooftop herb garden.
It takes only one sip to realise why cocktails only come by the pitcher.
Alternatively, $250 will get you into the official fundraising USA v All Blacks Gala at Union Station, to be attended by select players.
For a "Chicago-style" party, sports-centric Wrigleyville hosts the Welcome to Chicago Fan Party.
Your headphones blast out Starman and in front of you is the Freddie Burretti jumpsuit David Bowie wore to sing the song on Top of the Pops in 1972. A screen shows footage of the performance, handwritten lyrics sit on display and articles about Bowie's Ziggy Stardust persona adorn the walls.
Welcome to David Bowie Is, an immersive sensory experience at the Museum of Contemporary Art, featuring more than 400 objects, including costumes to rival Lady Gaga's and rare footage charting Bowie's journey to becoming a "one man revolution".
Hooked to Sennheiser technology, visitors wander through displays, each zone activating a relevant audio stream.
For lunch, the Lost Afternoon Luncheon promises "rugby fun" with ex-Eagles players, former All Black Eric Rush and the New Zealand Ambassador to the US, Mike Moore.
Or grab a bite at Chicago staple Potbelly Sandwich Works, "a much better version of Subway", then hit State St, where bargain-hunters will find such US shopping favourites as Target, TJ Maxx, H&M and Forever 21.
Rest up in the afternoon as Friday night is set to be huge in Chi-Town. The Chicago Bulls take on the Cleveland Cavaliers, a must for those wanting to catch a basketball game — but only if you're willing to miss the official pre-match party, the CARFU Masquerade Ball.
Friday is also one of America's favourite days — Halloween. The Northalsted Halloween Parade kicks off at 7pm, Seadog Cruises runs a "spine-tingling" haunted cruise and it will be rare to find a bar or block without costumed locals. What to wear? Anything goes. Anything.
Game day calls for a hearty brunch, so catch a ride with a $6-ish Sidecar, like Uber, from downtown to Chicago Firehouse Restaurant, a fire station-turned-steakhouse. Tin ceilings and brass fire-poles remain in place — one conveniently landing at the bar — and the old fire-fighter quarters (where Backdraft was filmed) have been converted into dining rooms. Stables from pre-truck times form a courtyard and a wine cellar features a fireplace doubling as a secret door.
After warming up with butternut squash soup, choose from four types of eggs benedict then take the pedestrian bridge to Soldier Field. Home of the Chicago Bears, the oldest NFL stadium has hosted Bon Jovi and One Direction concerts and the visitors' locker rooms, where the All Blacks will prepare, have been home to U2, Beyonce and Jay Z — for whom the flooring was ripped out and replaced with wood.
"From sporting events and concerts to international conferences, many special things happen at Soldier Field," says Michael Kelly, General Superintendent and CEO of the Chicago Park District.
"History will be made again on November 1 when rugby is played for this first time in this stadium."
Soldier Field, where history will be made with the stadium's first rugby game. Photo / Supplied
If time allows, the neighbouring Field Museum features a Haka Exhibition from October 29, then at 11am the stadium green will host the #USAvAllBlacksFanFest, with beer tents, music and merchandise.
The gates open at 1pm for the 2.30pm (8.30am NZ) kick-off and although the weather is unpredictable, chilly temperatures are likely.
"Drink to stay warm," suggests a venue staffer.
Post-game, head to bars like Paris Club Bistro and Bar along Hubbard St in River North then get your dancing feet on at five-storey club Castle.
Deep-dish pizza is the answer to those post-match hangovers. If your pizza personality is light-on-cheese and waste-the-crust-to-avoid carbs, then these open top pie-like treats aren't for you.
Lou Malnati's (voted best deep-dish in Chicago) uses a family recipe dating back to 1971 for favourites like "The Lou", with its three cheeses, spinach, mushrooms and tomatoes enclosed in garlic buttercrust.
A chocolate chip deep-dish is also on offer.
Over at Giordano's, the bacon barbecue chicken "stuffed" pizza is even cheesier, gooier and more guilt-ridden, but each bite is so delectabe you'll want to keep some in your mini-fridge and indulge for the next two days. Serious pizza lovers can take tours.
If the sun is out, head to Navy Pier for rides and American fare then rocket up to 360 Chicago, the 94th floor observatory/cafe at John Hancock Tower. Here, the new TILT experience has you lying flat on a glass pane that gradually juts forward 45 degrees, revealing a bird's-eye view of Chicago, each jolt down drawing gasps from witnesses.
One floor up, the Signature Lounge offers drinks overlooking the city — and the best view from a toilet I've seen.
After sunset bubbly, head to the House of Blues to catch R&B superstar NeYo in concert, or watch the Chicago Blackhawks hit the ice against the Winnipeg Jets.
Lou Malnati's sinful deep-dish pizza. Photo / Supplied
The second-largest art museum in the US, the Art Institute of Chicago, houses around 300,000 works, ranging from Greek, Mexican and Indian pieces to the largest collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings outside Paris' Louvre — including star attraction, Georges Seurat's A Sunday on the Island of La Grande Jatte.
The Modern Wing is home to Terza Piano, an open-air cafe with views into the city.
If the weather is good, take the pedestrian bridge to Millennium Park to snap a selfie at the world-famous Cloud Gate, aka "the Bean".
Andrew Suniula, USA Eagles centre and former Kelston Boys High School pupil:
• If you're going to watch sports in the US, this is the place to do it as the city is mad about its local teams. Bears and Bulls games are my favourite.
• I recommend Chicago-style pizza at Pequod's or Pizano's.
• You can't go wrong with an evening at one of the city's many neighbourhoods.
• Check out a comedy show at The Second City in Old Town.
In the heart of Chicago's chic River North district, the boutique Godfrey Hotel oozes style, from its Cubist-inspired design and dazzling, booth-adorned elevator lobby, to its sleek purple and grey room decor and L'Occitane amenities.
For midnight munchies, the world-famous Rock'n'Roll McDonald's (part-McDonalds/part-museum) is steps away, and it's only an elevator ride to Chef Ruddleston's unforgettable mojitos at I|O Urban Roofscape.
Further information: See DiscoverAmerica.com, usavallblacks.com and choosechicago.com.
The trendy spot is just six minutes from the Waikiki beach.