NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • Deloitte Fast 50
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Canada: Big snow in the big white

By Hannah Stephenson
AAP·
27 Sep, 2012 12:00 AM6 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save
    Share this article
With an annual dump of more than 7m of powder, Canada's Big White ski field is a magnet for powder hounds. Photo / Thinkstock

With an annual dump of more than 7m of powder, Canada's Big White ski field is a magnet for powder hounds. Photo / Thinkstock

Hannah Stephenson cruises into the heart of British Columbia to hit the slopes of ski haven, Big White.

Driving down Highway 33 in British Columbia, we stop to take in the fresh air and admire the snow-capped Monashee Mountains.

It's snowing quite heavily, but we're not worried, as there's no traffic, no danger of anyone spinning out of control and careering into us. But then Highway 33 is no ordinary carriageway.

In fact, it's just one of the 118 runs that make up Big White, a little-known gem of a family resort with plenty of snow all season, even at Easter when we visit.

Tied to school holidays, in Europe we'd been used to packed pistes, teeming with out-of-control skiers.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

We'd opted for Big White after hearing that - not only does it have the emptiest pistes when it's holiday hell in Europe, but also lashings of snow and little slush, even towards the end of the season.

An hour's drive from Kelowna Airport, the resort was built in the 1960s and centres around a single main street.

It's a magnet for powder hounds, with an annual dump of more than 7m of light, fluffy, champagne powder - no snow cannons here because they simply don't need them - while more leisurely skiers can comfortably tackle the network of tree-lined groomed green and blue slopes to the village centre.

We arrive for the last week of the season, and the slopes are largely deserted as locals, we're told, are now busy polishing their boats and servicing their camper vans in preparation for summer, having long since packed away their skis.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

The region of Kelowna is actually better known as a summer resort, when families holiday around the stunning 130km-long Okanagan Lake, set against the ancient mountains of the Okanagan Valley, home to many watersports and activities including bird watching and mountain biking.

Legend has it that the lake is also home to the Ogopogo, a close relative of the Loch Ness Monster.

While there are some more challenging runs, hard-core skiers in search of blacks can venture to the larger and more popular resorts of Banff and Lake Louise nearby, but they'll be faced with bus rides, whereas at Big White you can ski to your hotel door.

From the minute we hire our equipment we feel we're on another planet. The rental staff couldn't be more accommodating, with an ethos of `how can I help you?', rather than the `what do you want?' attitude so prevalent in some European resorts.

Discover more

Travel

Toronto: Keep cool all along the waterfront

13 Aug 03:30 AM
Travel

An enchanted train trip across Canada

27 Aug 04:00 AM
Travel

Nova Scotia: Big on adventure

06 Sep 12:00 AM
Travel

Canada: Winging it with the wealthy in Jasper

31 Oct 03:00 AM

We're introduced to Byron, our mountain host for the morning and an ebullient, enthusiastic, larger-than-life ski guide, who shows us much of what Big White has to offer, from its gentle blues and greens to the more challenging powder bowls.

At the summit, we ski past eerie snow ghosts - trees covered with snow which has frozen solid and assumed weird shapes in the wind.

Byron eagerly leads us to Telus Park, an area comprising jumps and obstacles suitable for skiers and boarders alike, and the kids can't wait to leave the starting blocks.

Even the designated chairlift for this daredevil park is designed with families in mind, displaying a sign requesting people to refrain from smoking or swearing while using it.

On another day, we enjoy a family ski lesson, and as the week progresses, my children - William, 13, and Grace, 12 - both competent skiers, decide to try a snowboard taster session.

The beginners' learning area is perfect for this, with a young, fun instructor and a magic carpet (a conveyor belt in the snow) to take the learners up the nursery slope.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

There are plenty of other highlights for kids, too, including the Mega Snow Coaster - Canada's largest resort tubing park, where you can zoom down specially built lanes in big inflatable rings.

There's also a mini skidoo track, and bigger snowmobiles for grown-ups - fantastic if you want to feel like James Bond for an hour. We come away shaken, but not stirred.

Other activities include ice skating and a climbing ice tower. More sedate is a horse-drawn sleigh ride through the peaceful, tree-lined terrain.

For indoor family fun you can head to Happy Valley Day Lodge, a big building a short gondola ride from the village centre, where activities range from Wii competitions to carnival nights, and the restaurants serve up everything from burgers and fries to top class Alberta steak and fine local wines.

Grizzly Lodge, the condo-style hotel where we're staying, is spacious and comfortable with a truly alpine feel, and amazing views of the mountains.

Our holiday also consists of a short stay in Silver Star, Big White's sister resort, some two hours away.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

It's even quieter than Big White with one small main street, but offers the same amount of ski terrain, and is so colourful; the shops and hotels painted in a rainbow of bright colours, giving the place a Wild West-meets-Disney feel.

The trademark cinnamon buns from Bugaboos cosy bakery, where ski guides share stories with visitors about the best runs and the snow conditions, are delicious.

Our accommodation here is at the impressive Snowbird Lodge. Situated right on the slopes, it's a real luxury, with a hot tub on the balcony, fully fitted kitchen and spacious lounge.

Everyone knows everyone here, so you can't get lost, and the ski school is easily located in the centre of town.

The front of the mountain at Silver Star is ideal for perfecting those parallel turns on green and blue runs, but venture to the back and you have a more challenging playground, with blacks and fun trails which suit kids who like jumps and bumps amid the trees (don't miss Peanut Trail for this).

Both resorts are also havens for cross-country skiers who want a good workout surrounded by nature.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

We don't spot any brown bears, but we're assured they live in the mountains, along with chipmunks and grouse.

KEY FACTS - BIG WHITE AND SILVER STAR RESORTS

BEST FOR: Champagne powder, quiet pistes and family entertainment.

TIME TO GO: Any time in northern winter, even the school holidays.

DON'T MISS: The eerie `snow ghosts' at Big White.

NEED TO KNOW: In Canada tips are not usually included in the bill. The normal amount to tip is around 15 per cent but don't feel obliged if the service is poor.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

DON'T FORGET: Your lip protection, to keep blisters and dryness at bay.

- APP

Save
    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

What's it like staying in a $6k a night penthouse in Queenstown?

Travel

I've been to Seville 10 times. Here's why I'll keep going back

Travel

Two unforgettable bike trails through Central Otago’s most scenic backroads


Sponsored

Family-built tours, Fiordland soul

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

What's it like staying in a $6k a night penthouse in Queenstown?
Travel

What's it like staying in a $6k a night penthouse in Queenstown?

Welcome to The Carlin Residence Club.

05 Aug 07:24 AM
I've been to Seville 10 times. Here's why I'll keep going back
Travel

I've been to Seville 10 times. Here's why I'll keep going back

05 Aug 06:16 AM
Two unforgettable bike trails through Central Otago’s most scenic backroads
Travel

Two unforgettable bike trails through Central Otago’s most scenic backroads

05 Aug 02:19 AM


Family-built tours, Fiordland soul
Sponsored

Family-built tours, Fiordland soul

27 Jul 02:00 PM
NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP