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Home / Travel

Campervanning in New Zealand: Off-the-beaten track road trips

By Sarah Bennett
NZ Herald·
21 Apr, 2024 07:00 PM6 mins to read

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Half an hour’s drive from Nelson, Cable Bay is a sleepy cove offering simple pleasures such as swimming, kayaking and the clifftop Cable Bay Walkway. Photo / bennettandslater.co.nz

Half an hour’s drive from Nelson, Cable Bay is a sleepy cove offering simple pleasures such as swimming, kayaking and the clifftop Cable Bay Walkway. Photo / bennettandslater.co.nz

New Zealand may be small but, with enough nous, you can easily get off the well-beaten track on your next campervanning trip, writes Sarah Bennett.

Since I last wrote about campervanning for Herald Travel, Lee and I have traded up from a Hiace camper to a caravan. Besides the new challenge of reversing it in front of onlookers, it’s pretty much same-same, except there’s a better chance of keeping our marriage sweet.

What hasn’t changed is our love of heading off the beaten track, although I’ve come to see this as somewhat of a state of mind. Unless you’ve got oodles of time and an off-road rig, there’s only so far you can go. Fortunately, the majority of New Zealand campsites offer a decent level of disconnection, plus ready access to more remote places by foot, bike or kayak.

Here are a few more of our favourite places to turn on, tune in and drop out.

Off-the-beaten track road trips in NZ.
Off-the-beaten track road trips in NZ.
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Kapowairua/Spirits Bay, Northland

While a procession of people beat the path to Te Reinga Wairua/Cape Reinga, few trickle down the side roads to nearby wonders such as Ninety Mile Beach and Te Paki’s giant dunes.

Sixteen kilometres of gravel road is enough to deter most from visiting Kapowairua/Spirits Bay, a spacious DoC reserve with unpowered sites, many nestled into wee nooks and small stands of trees. There’s little more here than potable water and toilets, so this is back-to-basics camping with a faraway cove vibe.

Clarks Beach, south Auckland

Just an hour’s drive southwest of Auckland, Clarks Beach Holiday Park is a Kiwi classic. Although still within sight of the Sky Tower, it nevertheless feels a world away thanks to the peaceful, salty surrounds of Manukau Harbour.

Low-key, slow-mo attractions include birdwatching or downhome golf. Clarks Beach also makes a great base to explore Āwhitu Regional Park cloaking the peninsula at Manukau Heads.

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 Clarks Beach Holiday Park in Auckland is a Kiwi classic. Photo / Supplied
Clarks Beach Holiday Park in Auckland is a Kiwi classic. Photo / Supplied

Tolaga Bay, Tairāwhiti/East Coast

Big ups to the roadworkers who have secured our safe passage along the East Coast highway, a touring route much loved for its blend of historic sites and small-town hospitality sprinkled along the glittering Pacific coast.

This is an awesome region for camping, with Tolaga Bay Holiday Park a particular fave for its historic wharf and nearby walk to magical Cook’s Cove. Iwi-owned and welcoming to whānau from home and abroad, it offers a chance to get to know this place and its people. (Note: closed for a spruce-up from April to September.)

Tolaga Bay Holiday Park is a particular fave for its historic wharf and nearby walk to magical Cook’s Cove. Photo / Tairāwhiti Gisborne
Tolaga Bay Holiday Park is a particular fave for its historic wharf and nearby walk to magical Cook’s Cove. Photo / Tairāwhiti Gisborne

Ōakura Beach Holiday Park, Taranaki

All hail the long way round, like Surf Highway 45 which serves up rural Taranaki scenery alongside striking views of the maunga should the weather allow. Side roads lead to mostly wild and quiet beaches, with Ōakura a bit more buzzy and just a 15-minute drive from New Plymouth.

As the village has boomed, Ōakura Beach Holiday Park has stayed true to its roots. Family-focused with a wide range of facilities, it sports various camping zones all within easy access of the waves and bush walks.

As the village around it has boomed, Ōakura Beach Holiday Park has stayed true to its roots. Photo / bennettandslater.co.nz
As the village around it has boomed, Ōakura Beach Holiday Park has stayed true to its roots. Photo / bennettandslater.co.nz

Castlepoint Holiday Park, Wairarapa

A bach settlement an hour’s drive from Masterton, Castlepoint’s lighthouse, crazy limestone landforms and lagoon will leave you breathless. It’s a wild reminder of just how geologically weird and wonderful Aotearoa is.

Castlepoint Holiday Park is situated on the sandy, windswept beach. Powered sites are spread across its seafront, nooks and terraces, offering relatively sheltered camping with the bonus of a lighthouse view, watersports and walking, with the hike up Castle Rock the must-do for the fleet of foot.

Castlepoint Holiday Park is situated on the sandy, windswept beach. Photo / Castlepoint Holiday Park
Castlepoint Holiday Park is situated on the sandy, windswept beach. Photo / Castlepoint Holiday Park

Cable Bay, Nelson

Half an hour’s drive from town, Cable Bay is a sleepy cove offering simple pleasures such as swimming, kayaking and the clifftop Cable Bay Walkway. It’s also a skip and a jump to Cable Bay Adventure Park, which has mountain bike trails, a climbing wall, tame eels and an epic flying fox.

Cable Bay Holiday Park is a delightful wee beachside camp. As well as nice grassy sites and essential facilities, it sports friendly hosts who will happily advise on farm walks and plug you into Cable Bay’s fascinating industrial history.

Cable Bay Holiday Park is a delightful wee beachside camp. Photo / Sarah Bennett
Cable Bay Holiday Park is a delightful wee beachside camp. Photo / Sarah Bennett

Riverside Holiday Park, Murchison

There’s way more to Murchison than a pitstop for pies and petrol. Situated amid many great rivers and reserves, it easily justifies a longer stay not least of all for the family-friendly white-water rafting and kayaking for which it is renowned.

Ten minutes’ walk from town, Riverside Holiday Park stretches over 40 acres of Buller River/Kawatiri riverbank. Camp here to discover this epic river’s pulling power, readily revealed from the rockpools that offer good views and a safe place to take the plunge.

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Ross Beach Top 10, West Coast

A lesser-known West Coast highway stop-off, Ross Beach Top 10 is an inspiring spot to soak up salt and sunsets. It also marks the southern end of the wonderful West Coast Wilderness Trail and is just a 10-minute bike ride to old Ross gold town.

Big surf, driftwood and harakeke give this park an unmistakable West Coast feel. Add in snazzy facilities such as a barbecue hut, wood-fired pizza takeaway and spa pool, and you’ve got a holiday destination that could keep you here a week.

On the West Coast Wilderness Trail. Photo / Supplied, Destination West Coast
On the West Coast Wilderness Trail. Photo / Supplied, Destination West Coast

Waitaki Lakes, Waitaki Valley

Down in southern hydro-lake country are Benmore, Aviemore and Waitaki, three gloriously blue waterways with elegant industrial architecture giving them gravitas. Spread along their shores are a bunch of basic, council-managed campsites suitable for self-contained types and popular with long-staying Kiwi boaties.

The Alps to Ocean Cycle Trail wends beside the waterways. The new Sailor’s Cutting section has emerged as one of New Zealand’s best day rides, so check out the camps near Otematata to park and ride.

The Alps to Ocean Cycle Trail wends beside the waterways. Photo / Jason Menard
The Alps to Ocean Cycle Trail wends beside the waterways. Photo / Jason Menard

Omakau Domain, Central Otago

A stop on both the Otago Central Rail Trail and Central Otago Touring Route, Omakau is well-versed in welcoming visitors. Of note is its historic pub where the upsell could be a meat raffle ticket, but who doesn’t want to support our rural fire brigades.

The public domain is a classic combo of campground, playground and sports field, with a lovely nine-hole golf course out back. Along with a bunch of powered and unpowered sites, it has ship-shape facilities and a friendly reception office where local travel advice is likely to be offered.

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