NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Brunei: Fish and chips and sago in the Maori way

NZ Herald
11 Jun, 2012 05:30 PM6 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Tiny fillets of fish, dried into crisps and sago paste quick-fried into tasty morsels, are among the snack delights of Brunei. Photo / Jim Eagles

Tiny fillets of fish, dried into crisps and sago paste quick-fried into tasty morsels, are among the snack delights of Brunei. Photo / Jim Eagles

Jim Eagles discovers a Kiwi concept being adapted as part of a new industry in Brunei.

The woman sat serenely on the floor in her long robe and headscarf and filleted one side of a tiny, tiny fish. Then she flipped it over and filleted the other side. Then she filleted an other fish. And another.

"She will do this all day," said Azman, the headman's son, who was showing us round this traditional Brunei fishing village, Kampong Sungai Matan.

"In a day she will fillet thousands of fish."

As we watched the pile of fish, each about 5cm long, was steadily converted into fillets the size of potato chips.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

When there were enough of them they were taken outside, laid out on a drying rack about one metre square, and left in the sun.

"Depending on how hot it is the fish will take two days to dry or maybe four days," said Azman.

"Then it will be packed up to be sold at the market.

"Look," and he pointed at a table in the corner covered with ziplock bags full of dried fish.

"Try some. See how they taste."

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Slightly apprehensively I nibbled on a small brown fillet. It was crunchy and fishy. Not bad. I nibbled a bit more. The wrinkled old woman sitting at the back of the room supervising things nodded and smiled approvingly.

Kampong Sungai Matan, is a traditional fishing village built on piles over the Brunei River, on the outskirts of the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan.

Although its oil and gas have made Brunei one of the richest countries, it is looking ahead to the time 50 years ahead when the fields start to run dry, and is developing alternative sources of income such as tourism.

After hearing that this approach was being promoted by their revered Sultan, Azman, who was already involved with Brunei Tourism, and his father, as headman, "sat down to discuss how our village could play its part," said Azman.

Discover more

Travel

Borneo: Born to be wild in the jungle

13 Feb 04:00 PM
Travel

Borneo: Nosy in the jungle

10 Oct 11:00 PM
Travel

Brunei: Gold praises Sultan's glories

06 Dec 04:30 PM
Travel

Borneo: Small wonders at every step

14 Dec 09:00 PM

"I had been to New Zealand and saw how the Maori villages were operated, allowing visitors to see their culture in action, so we thought we could do the same."

With the approval of the community - about 700 people living in 66 homes - a village experience tour was organised.

"We have limited it to no more than 50 people a day," said Azman, "so it does not interfere with the village too much."

Our group, from the expedition ship Orion II, had been welcomed to the village by children in traditional costumes throwing rose petals and invited into the headman's house for a performance of local songs, dances and drum music. Now we were being given a snapshot of daily village life.

After seeing the tiny fish being filleted Azman asked if we would like to see how they were caught.

A young man was summoned from a nearby house, bringing with him a throwing net, which he expertly flicked off the wooden walkway running along the outside of the village and into the river. When he hauled the net in, sure enough, there were a couple of the same tiny fish.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

This activity seemed to provoke some splashing in a string of floating fishponds, made from netting and wood, moored below the walkway.

"That," said Azman, "is where we hold the bigger fish the fishermen catch until they are needed."

Meanwhile, I had noticed a man further along the walkway hauling up a sort of string bag from the water. Inside were several largish crabs which he happily displayed.

Azman said that in season the villagers also caught prawns, some of which were sold raw, others pounded and mixed with spices to make prawn paste.

There weren't any prawns, it being the wrong time of the year, but in the house where the fish were being filleted were also several containers of paste.

"Very smelly,'' said Azman, as he removed the lid.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

He was right.

"Shows it's very good."

In a hut on the bank, two elderly men were using a device that looked like a two-handed saw to operate a sort of giant grater, made of hundreds of nails knocked into a slab of wood, to scrape sawdust from a sago palm.

Sago seems to be the staple food for locals, being mixed with other ingredients to produce dishes.

We got a demonstration of sago's versatility in one of the village houses where a woman was cooking cakes - green ones which tasted of sweetcorn and brown ones that were like doughnuts - made mainly from sago flour.

Further evidence of the importance of sago came back in the headman's house where two women showed how to mix the flour with water - first some cold, then more hot - to produce a gluey paste about four times the volume of the original.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

With the use of chopsticks it was possible to pick up a blob of glue, dip it into a sauce, and - hey presto - a tasty mouthful.

I decided to try the sago with the prawn paste.

"It is very hot," said Azman.

"You may need a fire extinguisher."

It was indeed very hot, and very tasty, so I tried some more, just to prove I could handle the powerful belt of chilli, then asked him, "Where's the fire extinguisher?"

"Aha," he grinned, "you will find some cool drinks through there," and he pointed through to another room in his father's house where a feast had been set out, mainly of traditional dishes but including some untraditional cans of Coke straight out of the fridge.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Just what I needed.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Singapore Airlines flies up to three times daily from New Zealand to Singapore and from there to Bandar Seri Begawan five times a week. The airline's regional SilkAir flies to several destinations in Borneo including three times a week to Kuching, daily to Kota Kinabalu and six times a week to Balikpapan.

Getting around: Orion II has Borneo departures next year in January-February and from July to October. Ten-night fares start from $10,100 a person. For reservations or to obtain a brochure, call Orion Expedition Cruises on 0800 444 462 or see your travel agent.

What to do: Visit Kampong Sungai Matan.

Further information: See bruneitourism.travel.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Jim Eagles visited Brunei with help from Singapore Airlines and Orion Expedition Cruises.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM
Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM

The trendy spot is just six minutes from the Waikiki beach.

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP