Pylos harbour at sunset. Photo / Getty Images
When one thinks of a Greek travel bucket list, the historic sights of Athens and escaping to the Greek Isles usually come to mind, but Messenia is an undiscovered alternative on the mainland, writes Jill Robbins.
Messenia in the southwest Peloponnese is an easy, 2.5-hour scenic drive from Athens and delivers gorgeous coastal scenery without leaving the mainland. The area has four luxury resorts tucked into a quiet community with four golf courses, three spas, a tennis centre, hiking trails, and beaches where visitors can swim and participate in water sports in the Ionian Sea.
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This region is a lesser-known holiday destination that tempts holidaymakers seeking a different experience than the Greek hotspots we see on everyone else’s social media feeds.
Fun fact: The film Before Midnight was set in the Peloponnese, and many of the locations showcased in the movie can be seen in Messenia. Fans of the film may recognise the scenery from the town of Pylos. The dramatic hotel room scene between characters Celine and Jesse was filmed at the Westin Costa Navarino. Fans of the Before trilogy, directed by Richard Linklater and starring Ethan Hawke, may find the setting extra meaningful, but seeing the movies before the trip is optional.
For travellers wanting a taste of the luxe life, there are four resorts under the Costa Navarino brand: Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino, W Costa Navarino, the Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort, and the Westin, mentioned above.
The Mandarin Oriental is a top-tier luxury property with rooms and villas, many with private pool decks, built into a hillside overlooking the bay. The W Costa Navarino is an upscale property with a sleek, playful vibe for adults and children over 12. The Romanos and the Westin are colocated and share a common Agora, a gathering space with shops, restaurants, and bars where you’ll find everything from fine dining to gelato. The Westin and the Romanos offer comfortable, laid-back luxury and have separate lobbies and different architectural details, although the aesthetic and landscaping of both properties blend seamlessly. Out of all four resorts, the Westin is the most kid-friendly, with its onsite waterpark pool and organised youth activities.
It’s easy to hop between Costa Navarino’s four Messenian resorts if you want to check out different restaurants and shops. If you’ve rented a car, it’s a short, easy drive, and if you’re sans wheels, there’s a free shuttle that makes regularly scheduled runs between the W and the Westin/Romanos.
Pylos has smaller boutique hotels in the downtown area for travellers seeking a more budget-friendly experience and who are comfortable with fewer resort-style amenities. Kalamata also has moderately priced hotels on or near the water, and the area is full of holiday rentals for anyone wanting a bit more privacy or a more homelike atmosphere for an extended stay.
Messenia’s proximity to the Ionian Sea makes this a perfect spot for every type of water sport. Water activities range from private yacht and sailboat charters to snorkelling and diving, including Padi certification and everything in between.
There’s water skiing, kite surfing, or windsurfing for high adventure seekers or anyone who wants more of a walk on the wild side. You can also book a bike excursion from the Westin to Voidokilia Beach, which has crystal clear, shallow water and soft sand. This Omega-shaped beach is an excellent, family-friendly swimming spot. There are few services on the beach, although there is a cafe just a short jaunt up the road.
In addition to activities that centre around sun, sea, and sand, Messenia is a terrific spot for anyone wanting a sports and wellness-focused trip. There are four 18-hole golf courses with all the bells and whistles, such as pro shops and instruction, not to mention jaw-dropping scenery. For racquet sport enthusiasts or anyone who’d like to learn, the Moratoglou Tennis Centre has 12 courts, including grass and clay courts, pickleball, and padel courts. You can book a court, a lesson, or a session with a pro to hone your skills.
There are castle ruins above Voidokilia Beach. You can hike the 6km loop trail to the ruins for a stunning view of the beach from above. This trail is moderately challenging and has a soft dirt and gravel path, and the trailhead entrance is well-marked. Nestor’s Cave, halfway up the trail, makes a cool photo backdrop. The large cavernous opening can be seen from the beach below. Spring, fall, or very early in the morning during the summer offer the best weather for those who wish to tackle this hike. Summer days are hot, and the trail offers no shade. There are other opportunities for more rugged hikes in the area that are best attempted with a guide familiar with the trails. Navarino Outdoors and Aegean Outdoors both offer a variety of guided adventure tours.
If you love food culture, there’s plenty of opportunity in Messenia to go beyond just sampling delicious Mediterranean cuisine. Don’t miss feasting on delicious Kalamata olives in the spot where they’re grown and harvested.
On my most recent visit, I took part in an olive oil tasting, which operated similarly to a wine tasting. I learned the nuances and undertones of different olive oils, how olives are grown and harvested in the region, and how olive oil stacks up against other types of oils used for cooking. I also took a Messenian cooking class in a private home, which was the greatest highlight of all three of my trips to Greece. Under the guidance of my teachers, Anna and Lulu, I learned to make hilopetes (HEE-lo-Pee-tez), which are traditional noodles usually served for Sunday dinner, similar to egg noodles. Both experiences offer fun takeaways that can be replicated at home.
Although Messenia is a year-round destination with a mild climate — average temperatures are 25°C — those who want the resort vibes will get the most mileage from a summer stay. The high season in July and August will treat visitors to hot, sunny weather, perfect for getting in the water and enjoying abundant water sports.
Shoulder season travellers — March through May and September and October — will find pleasant weather conditions for various outdoor sports and activities, such as golf, tennis, biking, and hiking. The summer season is popular with families with kids on school holidays, and the spring and fall attract more adult-only groups and sport-focused vacationers. Even during the shoulder season, the weather is usually mild enough to enjoy a good pool day, although the sea may be too chilly for comfortable swimming, and many of the water sports outfitters are closed.
Note: Costa Navarino resorts generally close in November and reopen in February to align with golf course schedules. If you seek a more secluded experience, you’ll find hotels in Pylos and Kalamata that stay open throughout winter. Winter visitors can escape the crowds, but the tradeoff is a lack of activity choices present during spring and summer.
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Athens with one stopover with Emirates and Qatar Airways. From Athens, it is a 2.5-hour drive to Messenia.
DETAILS
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