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Home / Travel

Bay of Islands: On top of the world

By Donna McIntyre
Weekend magazine·
27 Sep, 2015 01:22 AM4 mins to read

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Every corner, every waterfront, every clifftop offers another picture perfect view. Photo / Supplied

Every corner, every waterfront, every clifftop offers another picture perfect view. Photo / Supplied

Going walkabout is a great way to experience the winterless north, says Donna McIntyre.

As we skim by dive boat across the calm waters in the Bay of Islands, we are shown significant historic sites, including ports of call for Captain Cook. I can't help thinking how amazing it must have been on the Endeavour in this beautiful part of New Zealand, sketching the outlines of the coastline and islands on maps. Every morning the crew must have woken to yet another magnificent sea view.

Those early maps are surprisingly accurate says William Fuller, volunteer guide for our walk today on Ururpukapuka Island. We're getting a taster of the one he is hosting for the Bay of Islands Walking Festival next month. William is also principal of the Russell primary school and a wealth of information about his patch.

We've come out to the largest of the islands in the Bay today with Dive Ops but you can also travel on the Explore and Fullers ferries. The trip from Russell doesn't take long, including a few slow-downs on the way to appreciate those scenic and historic highlights.

At Urupukapuka we're embarking on an 11km walk. Thankfully William, who seems as fit as a proverbial mountain goat as he mentions his recent hike from Cape Reinga to Wellington, is happy to set a leisurely pace, which is just as well as there is so much scenery to savour.

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Every corner, every waterfront, every clifftop offers another picture perfect view. Our spirits soar as we feel as if we are on top of the world. How often do you get unobstructed 360 degrees like these? The sun is shining and the temperature seems a good few degrees higher than it is in Auckland, explaining why the Bay of Islands is known as part of the winterless north.

Walks over the Walking Weekend have varying levels of difficulty.
Walks over the Walking Weekend have varying levels of difficulty.

William has persuaded us to use his walking poles, and we get rather fond of them as we wind up the hillside from the wharf at Otehei Bay, passing wetland and the campsite that is so popular in the warmest month, looking across to the mainland, Cape Brett and out to sea. Over six hours we do a loop of the island, moving up and down hills, along the coastline, through wetlands, passing manuka forest and pa site, wandering inland before returning to the shore and ferry jetty to return to Russell.

Nature Walks

Another Russell venture running throughout the year is Nature Walks, 2.5km out of the village, run by ecologist Lisette Collins and partner Eion Harwood. The guided walks weave through the regenerating native tall forest on Lisette and Eion's land which is home to weka, ruru and kiwi, amazing large spiders and much more wildlife.

Need to know

The Bay of Islands Walking Weekend runs October 2-4. Based in Russell, there are 20 walks to choose from, ranging from cultural historic strolls around Russell to the more challenging island rambles. Local guides lead the walks, each limited to 20 people.

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As well as the incredible variety of terrain offered in the walks — from the one hour sunrise walk to seven hikes scattered around the bay — Haruru Falls, Russell, Waitangi, Cape Brett and out on the islands. The longest walk, the overnighter on Cape Brett, was already sold out back in July, as was the Tikitikiora option.

The walks start and finish at the weekend's headquarters, The Duke of Marlborough Tavern. Personally I can't think of more pleasant surroundings to swap walking tales with others, compare the highlights, complain about aching calf muscles and share the best way to treat blisters. Keep smartphones and cameras handy on your walks, too, there are prizes for pics of the days as well as post-walk entertainment.

More info: See boiwalkingweekend.co.nz.

Donna McIntyre was a guest of Blah Blah Marketing.

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