NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Bar/fly: Port Douglas

Kurt Bayer
By Kurt Bayer
South Island Head of News·NZ Herald·
8 May, 2014 03:00 AM5 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

T-shirts tagged with 'Central Hotel - Est. 1878. Where the locals still meet', are for sale behind the bar. Illustration / Rod Emmerson

T-shirts tagged with 'Central Hotel - Est. 1878. Where the locals still meet', are for sale behind the bar. Illustration / Rod Emmerson

If you want a dinkum Aussie drinking experience, you can't do better than Port Douglas, says Kurt Bayer, even if locals are scarce.

After his third shot of whisky, chased with a frosty-glassed schooner of VB, the native shook his blonde mullet.

"Na mate, good for ya. Doesn't boon anymore either. You know when it boons on the way down? Yeah, no booning anymore. It's good, no boon."

He denied having Scottish origins.

"Purebred 'Straya me, mate."

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

And when asked why his whisky is served in a tumbler rather than a shot glass, he smiles, adjusts his black wraparound sunnies, and plants a scuffed black boot on the bar rail.

"Otherwise I spill it, don't I. Gotta look after myself."

When my mobile rings, I sheepishly apologise and tell him it's my wife in New Zealand. I have to answer, and confess I'm in a pub.

"Hello darling," I say, before my new cobber shouts over, "Tell her you're in the whorehouse."

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

After explaining that I was not in fact in a house of ill repute, we agree to speak later.

My new mate, meanwhile, has laughed his arse off outside.

Too hot for me out there. I survey my surroundings. Doors and slat windows open, whirring fans purring.

Don McLean tinkling American Pie, kitchen staff harmonising, "the day the music died ...".

Discover more

Travel

Bar/fly: Brisbane

10 Apr 03:00 AM
Travel

Bar/fly: Stockholm

17 Apr 03:00 AM
Travel

Bar/fly: Wimbledon Common

21 Apr 04:15 PM
Travel

Bar/fly: Minerva, Plymouth

01 May 03:00 AM

Jugs of still water sit untouched, unloved, on the bar, so still and untouched that bubbles seep to the sides.

Keno on dedicated TVs for the hopelessly addicted, a silver gecko jerks across the ceiling, framed Australian rules shirts on walls, elderly couple supping cider and slapping down dominoes.

T-shirts tagged with "Central Hotel - Est. 1878. Where the locals still meet", are for sale behind the bar - $20.

A classic Australian drinking experience. Fair dinkum.

Uneven wooden floors, cussing, no fussing, stick around for the fisticuffs. All in good fun. Love it.

I thought I was drinking well, but even with cold beer poured into an iced glass, it's approaching tepid by the dregs.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"Another, mate?" barman Deej asks.

"Great Northern Super Crisp Lager, if you would be so kind."

Dished up, he asks for $4.50. Happy hour.

"How often do you do happy hour?"

"Every day mate. 4pm 'til 6pm."

"Happy two hours," I say, feeling it already, plainly.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"Yeah. And we do another one, 9pm 'til 10pm." By jeez, by jingo. Worth sticking around for.

There's a Black Caps v India cricket match being replayed on the tele.

Even though I watched it live two nights ago, I can hardly take my eyes off it.

Captain B-Mac finding form, lacing sixes over extra cover, Indians bungling in the field. I'm nervous, even though I know we win.

I shake out of it.

"Hey Deej, is this Great Northern beer local?"

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"Well, they say it is, but it comes from just south of Brissy."

"So, just a few thousand Ks away then?"

"Um, yeah."

(Fact check: It's actually brewed in Cairns, 70km away.)

That one disappears, Deej knows the drill.

Another. I consider changing things up and plumping for a Cascade Premium Light, but I'm too slow. Next time, Deej.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Boy, stand-up paddle boarding, it transpires, sure is thirsty work. But not as much as kite surfing in fringe cyclone winds, apparently, as my instructor Bretto (note the obligatory Aussie 'O' added to end of his Christian name) explained.

"Mate, you should've been here yesterday," he said as we idled over the calm inlet of Four Mile Beach a few hours ago. "I was 60 feet in the air."

Four Mile Beach, a favourite with Hollywood actor dude Matthew McConaughey after he hung out there while shooting a terrible film, Fool's Gold.

Locals of "Port", as they lazily coin it, are proud of it though.

The big-time star drank right here, I'm told, reminding me of the plaque I once saw in a Madrid bar that said: Hemingway did not drink here.

Another local rolls up. "G'day mate, can I have a schooner of VB, please?"

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"Sure can," Deej says, pouring.

"My lucky day then," punter says, slapping down a five, "Keep the change."

Uh oh, the mulletted shot-chaser returns.

Same again.

Shot in tumbler, bang. Slurps on his beer chaser.

"So, you're not Scottish, but you're local?" I ask, in the absence of anything else to say, as he's just staring at me with a sideways grin on his unshaved dial and making me nervous.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"Na, nobody's local in this town mate," he says. And he's right. I've been here 48 hours and not met one yet.

They're from all over Australia, migrating here by chance, liking the climate, the relaxed tourist vibes, the abundant weed supplies.

"Na, I'm from out west. Perth.

"Had to leave. My ex was a nutter. Proper psycho. I knew she'd never leave town, so only thing left was for me to f*** off. It's all good here, but."

I can see its charms.

"Paradise, eh," I offer, with a slur.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"Oh yeah, it is but it's not but. No one gets rich here. Lifestyle town."

Lifestyle. I like lifestyle. And yes, I do want another. Thank you, Deej. True professional that one. Forgot to change to Cascade. Next time.

"So, what do you do here? Work on the reef boats or something?"

"Kebab shop, few doors up. When I'm not rudely distracted by these young, tanned European things in bikinis. They actually walk around like that," he says, shaking his head, mullet-mane swaying.

But he gets by, he assures me.

"You see, there's a mango tree outside the shop. Must be three thousand mangos in it. I watch the ripe ones fall to the ground, these young things walking past, and I think to myself, hey this ain't so bad."

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Ain't so bad, indeed.

"Get us both a round, Deej. Hey, you local?"

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Major airlines connect daily from Auckland to Brisbane and Sydney, from where local carriers go to Cairns.

Grab a schooner: The Central Hotel Port Douglas is at 9 Macrossan Street.

Kurt Bayer travelled as a guest of Tourism Port Douglas & Daintree.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM
Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
TravelUpdated

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM

The trendy spot is just six minutes from the Waikiki beach.

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP