Bangkok perspectives

Sunrise is a rare serene time for Bangkok, seen from an early morning ferry on the Chao Phraya River. Photo / Martin Sykes

A vodka and tonic is just a vodka and tonic, some might say, but this one is served with an extra twist that brings on a special high. It tastes about the same as usual but I'm drinking it leaning against a simple glass balustrade 230m above the fascinating city of Bangkok.

The sun is setting, and a few sounds of the streets (police sirens mostly) are wafting up from 63 floors below, but up here all is peaceful. It's a rooftop oasis of cocktail drinking and extraordinarily fine dining at Sky Bar and Sirocco restaurant on the roof of State Tower in the Bangrak district.

Bangkok is a city of contrasts, from the ultra-modern skyscrapers, shopping centres and skytrain aerial railway to the more traditional temples, Royal palaces, street markets and tuktuks, all bustling with the nine million people who live here.

The city below has already started to turn on the lights for night time while I'm still enjoying the final golden rays of evening light and looking down on boats snaking their way along the river far below. It's hard to get a sense of where the city's centre lies but to me its heart is the Chao Phraya River.

Jumping on and off the many different types of boats to get around is one of the great joys of being here. No matter how hot the day may be (and it was generally around 40C when I was there in the late February "winter") a refreshing breeze is never far away when speeding along the river on a longtailed boat. These sleek craft are powered by recycled car engines attached to a propellor at the end of a very long drive shaft sticking out far behind the boat, which allows them to operate in very shallow waters and travel extremely fast, with quite a level of noise for accompaniment.

But going fast isn't an option when the longtail ventures off the river and wends its way along some of the many canals (or khlong) which weave a veritable spider's web of watery thoroughfares connecting one suburb with another.

For many residents of Bangkok navigating these khlong is just a normal part of their daily life. Their houses are raised on stilts over the water's edge and the easiest way of getting around is by boat.

The khlong give this area a feel of the canals of Venice. As I glide along at a leisurely pace, waterborne vendors paddle out to meet us in their canoes, eager to sell all sorts of stuff that we didn't know we needed ... like a loaf of bread to feed the catfish in front of a nearby temple.

The fish seem to know they're safe around the temples. And they obviously know they're likely to be fed because so many rush in, wriggling and squirming as they compete for the bread, that tourists should expect to be splashed.

Many of Bangkok's tourist spots are within an easy stroll of the river, so taking ferries is a great way to get around as well as affording good views along the way of life on the river.

Going ashore at Tha Tien Pier puts me a few minutes' walk away from two of Bangkok's best known sites, the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. There are temples (Wat) all over Bangkok which are open to visitors.

Bangkok's largest and oldest monastery, Wat Pho dates back to 1781 in its present form with some sections dating back to the 16th century. It is possibly Bangkok's best known temple, thanks to its huge reclining Buddha. From the tip of its toes (which, incidentally, is the best place to take photos) to the top of its head, the reclining buddha is 46m long and 15m tall and covered in gold leaf. Wat Pho is also a national centre for the teaching of traditional Thai medicine and Thai massage.

A 10-minute stroll from Wat Pho leads to The Grand Palace complex which, since 1782, has contained royal residences and government offices as well as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Emerald by name, but actually carved from green jade, the 70cm Buddha was first discovered in 1434 and spent more than 200 years in Laos before being brought to Thailand in 1778 where the first King Rama had it housed in the Royal Monastery here at the Grand Palace.

Three times a year the Emerald Buddha gets a fashion makeover where his specially made clothes are changed to best suit the season (summer, rainy season and winter) in a ceremony overseen by the King himself.

The Grand Palace is a huge complex covering 218,000 square metres, so it takes a while to see it all. The site has both royal and sacred connections so the dress code is strict - arms and legs must be covered and footwear must cover both heels and toes for strolling around, although shoes must be removed before entering temples.

Back on the canals, you'll soon be tempted off again by one of the plentiful waterfront restaurants for an air-conditioned lunch away from the heat of the day.

And a trip to Bangkok isn't complete without partaking in an afternoon of one of Bangkok's best loved pastimes - shopping.

This is a huge drawcard for many visitors, whether it be in one of the many local markets or the modern air-conditioned shopping malls. The Chinatown district is packed with markets spreading along dozens of side streets and alleyways, eventually meeting up with a district full of Indian markets, not far from the flower markets.

Bargaining over prices is normal practice, especially at the well-known Patpong night markets which particularly cater for tourists hunting souvenirs, bargains and a little risque nightlife on the side.

Taking the SkyTrain from Saphan Taksin central pier means you can travel high above the clogged Bangkok streets straight to some of the many shopping centres near Siam Square and National Stadium.

Day passes are available letting you hop on and off trains as you please and allowing more time to buy. And when you've had your fill of consumerism and the bustle is getting too much, that rooftop vodka and tonic is quite a lure.

But for a different perspective altogether, it's the river that provides again - jumping on the first ferry of the day, shortly after the sun comes up, gives me a whole new look at life on and off the Chao Phraya River as the city wakes.

Bangkok's frantic daytime pace seems far away at this leisurely time of day, and taking it all in from a gently swaying boat feels like the perfect way to spend my last morning here.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Thai Airways fly direct from Auckland to Bangkok four days a week (Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, returning on Saturday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday).

Where to stay: The Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa is well located alongside the Chao Phraya River, and has a free ferry service running half hourly to the Saphan Taksin central pier, which is at the start of the Sky Train line.

What to do: Sirocco restaurant and Sky Bar are located at State Tower. SkyTrain day passes are available at any station.

Further information: See the Tourism Authority of Thailand website.

Martin Sykes travelled to Bangkok courtesy of the Tourism Authority of Thailand and Thai Airways International.